Jellybean Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Hey Are these a common item to let go? While the diff is off I was going to do, 2 carrier bearings, 2 seals, 2 O-rings, sealant Crown and Pinion Bearings (Front & Rear) Any seals required for the Crown and Pinion Bearings Anything else I am missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 There are a few possible extras needed if you are replacing bearings mate. There are shim washers between the carrier housings and the bearings on both sides, and also between the pinion and the diff housing, a specific thickness is needed to hold the bearings and therefore the crownwheel/differential in the proper position so it meshes with the pinion in the correct fashion. You adjust the carrier bearing shims or the pinion shims, depending on the contact pattern you have when the diff is assembled. Ideally there is also a new crush tube required that sets the preload on the pinion if it is replaced/removed or the bearings are renewed. I'm not saying you will definitely need these parts, I replaced the crownwheel & pinion in my own diff and I got away with the original crush tube, I did "massage" it slightly to add a bit of length to it so it would have a bit of resistance in it when I tightened it all down. I checked the pre-load and it was bang on. I was happy to put my diff back together to check the contact pattern between crownwheel & pinion without having extra/different shim washers to hand because I hadn't disturbed the carrier bearings during the gear swap. Again the contact pattern was fine so I got away lightly on that front too. I can imagine shimming the carrier bearings to be a proper PITA as the bearing cone needs to come out of the housing to fit the new shims and then the whole differential reassembled to check the contact pattern. This process, along with adding or reducing the number of shims behind the pinion, would need to be repeated again and again until the proper pattern is acheived. Not a particularly pleasant job to be honest mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 thanks Damien , great info! I didn't think it was so involved, just whip out, whip in the new bearings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 There's a crush spacer in the pinion bearing assembly. Changing pinion bearings is not for the feint hearted. You need a very low torque torque wrench to set up the preload and a shed load of experience to read the contact patterns on the crown wheel and pinion teeth. Race transaxle guys do this all the time. 99% of garages haven't a clue. Listen to Damian (spelling?), he's obviously been there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Thanks Chris, I think I will leave it to Miguel to do Looking at the Toyota Parts catalogue , they have a huge list of shimes for the VIN; How do you know what one to get? Do the shimes have a marking on them like "MARK 82" UK Spec Vin: JZA80R-ALFVZW 41201D WASHER, PLATE (FOR REAR DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE PINION) 90560-82001 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.80, MARK 80 1 € 9.04 90560-82002 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.81, MARK 81 1 € 9.04 90560-82003 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.82, MARK 82 1 € 9.29 90560-82004 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.83, MARK 83 1 € 9.29 90560-82005 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.84, MARK 84 1 € 9.29 90560-82006 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.85, MARK 85 1 € 9.29 90560-82007 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.86, MARK 86 1 € 9.29 90560-82008 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.87, MARK 87 1 € 9.43 90560-82009 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.88, MARK 88 1 € 9.43 90560-82010 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.89, MARK 89 1 € 9.43 90560-82011 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.90, MARK 90 1 € 9.43 90560-82012 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.91, MARK 91 1 € 9.56 90560-82013 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.92, MARK 92 1 € 9.56 90560-82014 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.93, MARK 93 1 € 9.56 90560-82015 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.94, MARK 94 1 € 9.56 90560-82016 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.95, MARK 95 1 € 9.74 90560-82017 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.96, MARK 96 1 € 9.74 90560-82018 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.97, MARK 97 1 € 9.74 90560-82019 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.98, MARK 98 1 € 9.74 90560-82020 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.99, MARK 99 1 € 9.92 90560-82021 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.00, MARK 00 1 € 9.92 90560-82022 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.01, MARK 01 1 € 9.92 90560-82023 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.02, MARK 02 1 € 9.92 90560-82024 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.03, MARK 03 1 € 9.92 90560-82025 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.04, MARK 04 1 € 9.92 90560-82026 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.05, MARK 05 1 € 9.92 90560-82027 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.06, MARK 06 1 € 9.92 90560-82028 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.07, MARK 07 1 € 9.92 90560-82029 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.08, MARK 08 1 € 9.92 90560-82030 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.09, MARK 09 1 € 9.92 90560-82031 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.10, MARK 10 1 € 9.92 90560-82032 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.11, MARK 11 1 € 9.92 90560-82033 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.12, MARK 12 1 € 9.92 90560-82034 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.13, MARK 13 1 € 9.92 90560-82035 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.14, MARK 14 1 € 9.92 90560-82036 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.15, MARK 15 1 € 9.92 90560-82037 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.16, MARK 16 1 € 9.92 90560-82038 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.17, MARK 17 1 € 9.92 90560-82039 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=2.18, MARK 18 1 € 9.92 90560-82040 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.77, MARK 77 1 € 9.04 90560-82041 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.78, MARK 78 1 € 9.04 90560-82042 JZA80..EUR, GCC, T=1.79, MARK 79 1 € 9.04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 They never have many / any in stock outside of Japan. I make my own by turning down thick wall tubing, then surface grinding to the required thickness. I don't think the stock new ones are marked, you need to keep them in the packet, or measure them. The pinion bearing preload is established by tightening the pinion nut hard enough to slightly collapse the crush tube between the bearings until the preload is right. Go too far and you get to start all over with a new crush tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 They never have many / any in stock outside of Japan. I make my own by turning down thick wall tubing, then surface grinding to the required thickness. I don't think the stock new ones are marked, you need to keep them in the packet, or measure them. The pinion bearing preload is established by tightening the pinion nut hard enough to slightly collapse the crush tube between the bearings until the preload is right. Go too far and you get to start all over with a new crush tube. thanks Chris , MVP was just asking me what size ; I will see what Miguel says, maybe he can make his own too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted June 1, 2013 Share Posted June 1, 2013 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?279613-Large-UK-Diff-Complete-Rebuild-Kit Is this of any interest to you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.