Iky Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 As the title, There are gs300 outer cv joints for sale. I know the hubs fit on supras. So would it be safe to say the outer cv joint will also? Regarding the shaft end. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-GS300-3-0-OUTER-ABS-CV-JOINT-AND-CV-BOOT-GAITER-KIT-1993-ONWARDS-BRAND-NEW-/150673479963?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2314d6d91b I was planning in using this on my TT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Anybody ever taken one apart? or have knackered one they care to donate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 From the EPC it would appear that they're not removeable from the driveshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 From the EPC it would appear that they're not removeable from the driveshaft. Cheers, didn't think to check the EPC. Anyway I'm awaiting delivery of one from ebay and will have a mess about with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 They will come off, they are on snap rings from memory. Examine the inside of the ones you get and all should become apparent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 They will come off, they are on snap rings from memory. Examine the inside of the ones you get and all should become apparent. Cheers Chris. I will report back with my findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I've looked through the manuals too and can't find anywhere that says they are removeable (plenty about removing the inboard joint) but as Chris says, they are probably on snap rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I am pretty much certain I have had one off before now. CHECK, but I am pretty sure it was a hold the shaft in a big vice and belt the inner of the joint with a brass drift and bleedin' big `ammer BUT it may have had a circlip that needs releasing on the inside of the joint, like many VAG ones..... So CHECK before belting!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
straightsix Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 I am pretty much certain I have had one off before now. CHECK, but I am pretty sure it was a hold the shaft in a big vice and belt the inner of the joint with a brass drift and bleedin' big `ammer BUT it may have had a circlip that needs releasing on the inside of the joint, like many VAG ones..... So CHECK before belting!! Sound advice from a man who has at some point in his murky past learnt the hard way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 1, 2013 Share Posted May 1, 2013 Indeed, I also know that using a steel drift can break joints.... Learnt the hard way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 2, 2013 Author Share Posted May 2, 2013 I am pretty much certain I have had one off before now. CHECK, but I am pretty sure it was a hold the shaft in a big vice and belt the inner of the joint with a brass drift and bleedin' big `ammer BUT it may have had a circlip that needs releasing on the inside of the joint, like many VAG ones..... So CHECK before belting!! Sound advice. I've actually had a VAG one apart a long time ago. So hopefully it shouldn't be too difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) Ok, got the spare shaft. The end was secured by a circlip but theres no way of getting this off without belting it. How are the internal ball bearings supposed to come out? The gold coloured bit at the back has a smaller diameter. Does this need to be taken off? Edited May 9, 2013 by Iky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Post a proper high resolution photo of the circlip in place. I think you need to carefully get the boot adaptor off (the gold bit). You MUST get the shaft out of the joint before removing the cage and balls. You need to first wash out all the grease with petrol, then with the shaft out, tilt the cage right over and one ball should come free, then do the rest. It HAS to go back together in correct phase, otherwise it will lock up. It may even lock up and be immovable, and effectively a scrapper. If in doubt get a driveshaft savvy mechanic to do it. There's a fairly fine line between belting it hard enough and **g*ring it up completely!! You may have to use an adhesive to put the boot adaptor back on, if it's crimped on in manufacture. A new or good used shaft is possibly going to appear very tempting, very shortly, there's knack to doing them, for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Post a proper high resolution photo of the circlip in place. I think you need to carefully get the boot adaptor off (the gold bit). You MUST get the shaft out of the joint before removing the cage and balls. You need to first wash out all the grease with petrol, then with the shaft out, tilt the cage right over and one ball should come free, then do the rest. It HAS to go back together in correct phase, otherwise it will lock up. It may even lock up and be immovable, and effectively a scrapper. If in doubt get a driveshaft savvy mechanic to do it. There's a fairly fine line between belting it hard enough and **g*ring it up completely!! You may have to use an adhesive to put the boot adaptor back on, if it's crimped on in manufacture. A new or good used shaft is possibly going to appear very tempting, very shortly, there's knack to doing them, for sure Ive bashed the shaft out already, circlip is still inside the end bit trapped behind the joint but cant get the joint and ball bearings out. It does not push enough to one side to get a ball bearing out. I wasnt sure about the bit what you call the boot protector, if it needs to come off. This is just a spare im 'experimenting' with Chris. Too see the similarities with the supra and Lexus ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Inside where? Just inside the shaft side of the joint? Post a photo. The centre and cage should tilt about 45 degrees or so and a ball should be free then. It may need tilting the right way. There must be stuff via Google on this, maybe even a video on YT? It's far easier to show than describe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Inside where? Just inside the shaft side of the joint? Post a photo. The centre and cage should tilt about 45 degrees or so and a ball should be free then. It may need tilting the right way. There must be stuff via Google on this, maybe even a video on YT? It's far easier to show than describe. Yes, on the other side of the centre bit, I tried fishing it out through the hole where the shaft goes but no luck. I'll be back at the unit tomorrow so will take more photos. I'll try to carefully remove the boot adaptor off, I think thats stopping it tilting enough to release a ball bearing. hopefully then it should be more accessible like the photo off google below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 9, 2013 Share Posted May 9, 2013 Rzeppa joints are deliberately designed so a ball CANNOT POSSIBLY escape through excessive articulation with the driveshaft in the joint's centre. It stops it articulating too far and something nasty happening going round a corner or over a big dip Once the shaft is out the only thing stopping the ball coming out should be either the boot shield / adaptor, or wear ridges making it hard to articulate it far enough. On some joints, if one ball won't come up ready for extraction, try its neighbour. Mathematically they are ingenious things, and modern ones are really reliable compared to late 50's ones. C/V jockeys at your local Re(al)-Con driveshaft place have all this down to a fine art, they can dissamble and re-assemble joints while masturbating vigorously with the other hand, drinking a tinnie, smoking a fag, and watching a soap. Clever stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted May 9, 2013 Author Share Posted May 9, 2013 Rzeppa joints are deliberately designed so a ball CANNOT POSSIBLY escape through excessive articulation with the driveshaft in the joint's centre. It stops it articulating too far and something nasty happening going round a corner or over a big dip Once the shaft is out the only thing stopping the ball coming out should be either the boot shield / adaptor, or wear ridges making it hard to articulate it far enough. On some joints, if one ball won't come up ready for extraction, try its neighbour. Mathematically they are ingenious things, and modern ones are really reliable compared to late 50's ones. C/V jockeys at your local Re(al)-Con driveshaft place have all this down to a fine art, they can dissamble and re-assemble joints while masturbating vigorously with the other hand, drinking a tinnie, smoking a fag, and watching a soap. Clever stuff Haha!. I'll get the adaptor bit removed and see what happens. Its got 'slightly' damaged anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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