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Markssupra's HKS Big Twins Aerotop project.


markssupra

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Thank you, everything is moving along slowly. Seemed a great place to put a washer bottle as if it leaks at least its outside the car. I'll probably flood the boot topping it up though :rolleyes:

 

Had to chop the filler neck down quite a bit to make it sit flush with the polystyrene fitting but I think it turned out ok.

 

I would like to finish the car this year, but still lots to do and I want to do it right. Hopefully make a start on the engine soon, maybe in a few weeks time.

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Time for an update as its been a while. Re-wired the twin fuel pumps to separate feeds using the stock plug so they can be run independently by the Syvecs. Titan triple pump hanger is back in the tank, the -10 feed and -6 return hoses installed although I had to drop the fuel tank slightly to get the hoses through the gap. All bolted back up now and hoses fixed, fuel filter installed and run up to the bay.

Just need to fit the tank breather valve once I get some more hose.

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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2JZ GTE oil squirters cleaned and airlined through to clear any old oil. The sprung ball bearings all working well and not stuck.

 

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Spent a few hours at work removing the oil galley ball bearings from the engine block.

What a nightmare job!!! Tried welding a bolt to the ball but didn't want to damage anything so I drilled them instead. Special 8mm ticn coated tungsten carbide drill, slow speed and cutting lube done the job.

Once I had drilled both the front balls I used a long rod to punch out the rear 2 balls, then punched out the fronts from the back.

 

Found plenty of metal swarf left behind from all the deck skimming and machining work on the billet mains. So lots of brake cleaner and high pressure airline cleared it all out.

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Engine block and crank thoroughly cleaned and back on the engine stand. Arp main studs installed, ACL race bearings and Titan billet main caps all ready to check the mains oil clearance using plastigauge.

 

All the mains oil clearances were within tolerance at 0.038mm.

 

 

 

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Main bearing clearances checked at 0.038mm, time to clean the plasiguage off and fit the main caps for the last time.

 

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ACL thrust bearings.

 

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Bearings covered in a healthy dose off assembly lube before crank installed.

 

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Once the main caps were torqued down the crank thrust clearance needed to be checked. At 0.021mm it was a little too close for me as the standard clearance

is between 0.020mm - 0.220mm.

Removed the main caps and crank again to adjust the thrust bearings and get the clearance to 0.100mm.

 

 

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New oil galley plugs fitted to each end of the block.

 

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Update time. Pistons are now fitted, plastigaged the rod bearings and all were within tolerance. Had to modify the oil nozzles by slightly bending them so they pointed more towards the centre of the piston, they were touching the rear rib of the wrist pin area at the bottom of the stroke. Just whipped them out, held them in a vice and very carefully made a smaller bend radius with some pliers.

After applying a good dose of assembly lube to the crank and rod bearings, torqued up the ARP rod bolts to spec and turned the crank a few revolutions to make sure nothing was binding.

 

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Time to start thinking about closing up the bottom end!

Jobs to do include removing the old rear crank seal from its housing and fitting a new one, fit new oil pump after priming it with some assembly lube first.

Once the oil pumps fitted the new front crank seal can be installed, this has to be flush with the pump housing.

 

Stock engine gasket set from toyota, includes the front and rear crank seals.

 

 

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This is the old rear crank seal, need to be removed from the housing and given a good clean before refitting, especially the sealant groove.

 

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New rear seal fitted.

 

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New stock oil pump.

 

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Time to close up the bottom end!

To get the upper sump clean I used my shotblaster at work, chased out all the threads, then used brake cleaner and an airline make sure it was all clean. Cant have any grit dropping into the engine.

I had all the sump bolts chromed along with the lower sump. Nice clean oil pick up and new gasket and a magnetic drain plug to finish it off.

 

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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coming on well this mate! you can always gauge if your giving a build enough time by the state of your relationship.....if its in tatters then you are putting the right amount off effort in to your project ;)

 

word of warning.....never fill washer bottle when drunk....if you miss you will flood the boot :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
coming on well this mate! you can always gauge if your giving a build enough time by the state of your relationship.....if its in tatters then you are putting the right amount off effort in to your project ;)

 

word of warning.....never fill washer bottle when drunk....if you miss you will flood the boot :)

 

Nice progress Mark.

 

Looking good Mark, some great progress indeed! Like what you have done with the washer bottle & the fuel pump setup :)

 

Thanks guys, project is coming on well.

 

Updated all the reserved posts as I wanted to keep the build of the engine bottom end together. Time to move on now!

 

Another present has arrived, more shiny bits :)

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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Didn't take long to get the Coilovers fitted, KW INOX V3. I set the bump and rebound to the recommended settings before fitting them to the car as it was easier. Fitting them on was a breeze as they were wound down to lowest possible there was no pressure on the springs. Once they were fitted we just wound them up to 70mm as per Alex's advice. Now I can get my old wheels back on and get it off the dollies.

 

Good time to check the brake lines for any binding or rubbing on full lock to lock. Used P clips bolted to the front subframe to keep the front lines in check.

 

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Looking awesome mark, really gonna be special when it's done.

I'll pop round for a nosey soon!

 

Thanks bud, welcome any time mate. just let me know :)

 

Bloody hell Mark, this will be done before mine at this rate! Nice progress and some nice parts :thumbs:

 

Thanks Kaan, doubt it mate, lots to do yet. Yours is coming on well though.

 

Nice coilovers Mark.

 

Can you give us feedback on the ride quality once on the road pls ;)

 

lI want other coilovers at some point...just need to make up my mind. :)

 

Will do Luc, Alex has these with TRD ARB and likes them, he suggested the settings for the initial ride height.

 

Great progress!!! Never seen a chromed lower sump on a Supra! Love it!:D

 

Thought I might as well while it was off, I'll have to park up at meets on put it on stands and mirrors underneath :cool:

 

Loving that chrome sump :D This is going to be a stunner once its finished :thumbs:

 

Hope im getting a passenger ride when its finished :p

 

Cheers Alex, course you will :)

 

Nice Mark. Looks like we are both making big progress. When will you be done? JAE?

 

Thanks mate, we are making good progress, will have a chat with you when I start mocking up the twins.

 

Ready for JAE, no way!! Should be ready next year :)

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  • 2 months later...

Thought it was about time I updated thread with some progress pics.

 

Getting ready to install the cams, I had to check exactly where TDC was. Just used a dead stop for the piston to touch against and turned the engine forwards and backwards and making a note of the degree readings off the degree wheel. After setting the degree wheel to read the same degrees on either side with the piston touching the dead stop I was ready to install the head.

 

The head needed a little machining work to clean up the washer seat. After reading on supraforums about the ARP head studs and small washers digging into the head, I decided to lightly clean up the seats and use the stock washers as these are a larger diameter but same thickness and fit the recess properly. I had to ream the holes back out to 12mm diameter as they had closed down to about 11.6mm.

 

 

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Edited by markssupra (see edit history)
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