Fizzy T Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 Hi guys just wondered if anyone could help me with a few issues I've got after changing my crank pulley, I've removed the pulley fine.New one went on perfect and all the timing marks were in line the whole time so I know nothing has moved. I replaced the cam belt and as I don't ever use A/C I have removed the pump and it's ancillaries. The first problem arose when I refitted the Aux pre tensioner and used a 14mm socket on a bar to move it to slip the new shorter belt on... The tensioner gave way and stripped all the thread away from the bracket so now the pulley is loose and is unfit for use. I guess I could get someone to spot weld the end of the bolt to the bracket so I can use the pulley as the bearing is fine but would that be recommended? £220+ for a new tensioner or a few quid for a few blobs of weld? My wallet prefers the weld The second problem is although as far as I know everything bar the viscus fan and aux belt is refitted. The engine will happily (without any horrible mistake caused noises) turn over on the key but it will not fire up the engine. I've not checked for a spark yet as I hate the idea of touching the clips for the coils after hearing they are very brittle. Any ideas as to why it's not firing up? Would it start without the alternator / water pump spinning? I know it's stupid to not run the pump but it was only for a quick test. Pics... New vs Old Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr Crank position Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr Cam positions Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr The tensioner is old looking but as the bearing is fine why replace it? Just a blob of weld will sort it? Untitled by MrfizzyT, on Flickr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Blyth Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 If you look at the crank pulley there is both a yellow and a white timing mark around its circumference. I believe it's the white one you need to use when setting TDC. You can double check by using the second set of timing marks that are on the timing belt sprocket on the crank. From memory there is only on timing mark on the sprocket so it's less ambiguous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 That's the video I followed for reference. I used the first set of marks just like he did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 I think I've figured it out... The standard crank only has ONE timing mark @ TDC. Well as I watched that video he set it to 15 degrees before TDC as his crank has TWO marks. Furthest clockwise is 15 degree's before TDC and the 2nd was TDC. I've ended up setting my replacement crank at 15 degrees before TDC and my cams at TDC. God knows how I mucked that up but hopefully tomorrow I'll sort it out weather permitting. Apparently non vvti 2jzgte's are a non interference engine? Sure didn't feel or hear any contact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 15, 2013 Share Posted April 15, 2013 (edited) that video shows he uses the line furthest to the right when the top cam cover markers are lined up with the dots so you must have to go from the other line to the lines on your cam gears Edited April 15, 2013 by ashbuster (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 15, 2013 Author Share Posted April 15, 2013 Yeah my cam's only have 1 line rather than dots too. Dots are 15 degree's before TDC and only shown on engines / cams with vvti. Annoying mistake but with any luck there's no damage done. I'll have to remove that damn tensioner again though. Either way I still need to bodge or replace the aux belt tensioner. Been offered one by a kind guy on here already so thanks goes out to him and I'll be contacting him soon if a few spotwelds don't do the trick. When money permits I'm buying nice shiny black pulleys from Whifbitz haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antno Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Is there enough room to fit a time-sert or heli-coil to repair the thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jos Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 You can drill and make a bigger thread for the tensioner, so you can fit a bigger bolt (M10 or 12 I think), that's how I fixed my tensioner, had the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 did you sort it fizzy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Reset the timing and it fires up but stalls pretty quickly,Might be down to I didn't have the aux belt setup reinstalled or the boost hoses refitted yet. I repaired the tensioner temporary by fitting a nut and bolt combo but yet to refit it as there's currently a thunderstorm outside. I'll get it done tomorrow if it doesn't pass today. I'm so eager to get back on the road it's unreal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 BTW yesterday I got it all back together and she fired up sweet as a nut first time. Took her for a spin and I swear she's far more responsive now but it could be one of two things. First it could just be my imagination as I've not driven her for a month or...The cam timing was ever so slightly off in my opinion from before the cam belt change. It looks like it was 3-4mm or so past the line marks on the cam cover. Now I've lined it up perfectly it runs better. Hopefully does better mpg Next thing to replace will be the radiator then the intercooler. I'll then no doubt want a hard pipe kit. Already been teasing myself on the whifbitz site Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 nice first drive after been sat on the drive for a bit is always good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted April 22, 2013 Author Share Posted April 22, 2013 I only managed to get the crank bolt up to 230nm on my own without removing the starter to jam the flywheel. It's got thread locker on it so should hold but ideally I want to nip it up some more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 DO NOT use thread lock on crank pulley bolts!!! They are torqued to hold without it, and if torqued and Locited will be a nightmare to undo again. Always mark timing with Tipex BEFORE stripping an unfamiliar engine. Do a sanity check against TDC with a dowel down number one plug hole if in doubt. Doesn't the auxillary belt tensioner pulley centre bolt use a semi captive nut than can be replaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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