Noz Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Was thinking about making a couple sets, might throw a set on eBay. Only sets I've seen are horrid standard length ones. Want a set of extended. Would it even be worth the hassle? Anyone have any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 What's the value of having extened wheel nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 (edited) I would be interested in standard length hollow nuts at a good price. Anything to free up a few more Unsprung Grams... Edited February 15, 2013 by ManwithSupra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 What's the value of having extened wheel nuts? I think nuts look nicer if they are extended. Just looks a bit different. I would be interested in standard length hollow nuts at a good price. Anything to free up a few more Unsprung Grams... What would you call a good price dude? I was only looking to make a one off set. Shame I can't make the hex diameter smaller but I spose that could cause issues with torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 What would you call a good price dude? I was only looking to make a one off set. Shame I can't make the hex diameter smaller but I spose that could cause issues with torque. Ideally less than £20 each which is what I can get them for at the moment (I Cant justify £400 for a set of nuts) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up. I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up. I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192 Really? I have never heard of that, although that’s not to say that you are wrong (It’s just that I have never heard it) but it begs to ask this question, surely if the wheel nuts need to be weaker than the hub/studs then why don’t manufactures fit alloy nuts as standard then? I suppose it would be down to cost, but then if it is, it can’t be a major enough issue to worry about? The thing is I really REALLY do not trust Alloy wheel nuts; I had a bad experience with them before and will never use them again. They will either stay Steel or be replaced with Titanium and I will only go Titanium if it’s worth the outlay at which case it’s not at the moment. The only reason I want to use Titanium nuts is to reduce unsprung weight. The only risk of tearing the hub up that I can see befalling me would be if I were to hit a large pot hole (I have never come across one on a track) or in the worst case coming off the track and into a barrier to which I would probably have more than just the hub to replace surely then in that case using Alloy, Steel or Titanium nuts would make no difference at all (as lots of things will be bent) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Ideally less than £20 each which is what I can get them for at the moment (I Cant justify £400 for a set of nuts) Well I'm sourcing material now. Due to the extra material around the cone end I'm looking at bar and not hex. If you give me some idea what you think you would think is a suitable price for a set I can look into doing two sets, and price the material as doing two will definitely help material costs. Might not make any difference if suppliers have the correct size material. I'll price for two sets and see if we can share material costs. It's my own time spent machining them, and considering I don't have a lathe with active tooling I'll be machining the hex manually. Definitely an awesome product to make, but doubt I'll want to do it again after 40 nuts anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManwithSupra Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 A good price will be about £280 for a set. It may be worth noting they will need some sort of coating to stop galling between the nuts and the studs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l.chris97 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 The nut should be weaker that the hub...thus alloy is better, unless you want to risk tearing the hub up. I bought these....they weigh naff all each. There are Titanium look versions too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12X1-5-JDM-WHEEL-LUG-NUTS-LOCK-SET-20-pcs-M12xP1-5-OPEN-END-R40-Style-Black-/261162819986?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item3cce846192 were these genuine kics wheels nuts, find it hard to believe they are at that price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Can't remember what I paid Chris...it wasn't from them - it was just an example...I'd do my own research before buying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Sounds interesting, Noz. I really REALLY do not trust Alloy wheel nuts; I had a bad experience with them before and will never use them again. What was the bad experience you speak of, if you don't mind explaining? I currently run alloy nuts and would be interested in hearing about any potential pitfalls before hitting the track later in the year... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 £280 is a good price!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I hate machining titanium, such a ballache And expensive too Is my favourite material tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 The only real bitch with machining Titanium is tapping it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) If the correct Aluminium alloy is used then there shouldn't be any problem with them, over tightening is usually half the issue. There are dozens of different grades of Aluminium alloys and also a few different grades of Titanium so you need to choose the correct one for whatever application you need. Does anyone actually use a torque wrench for doing their nuts up or even know the correct torque ? Edited February 16, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 What is the correct torque setting mate!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 75-80 ft lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 75-80 ft lbs Cheers mate...I use a torque wrench and have them all set at 70ft lbs. I'll notch them up a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 I use my normal length ratchet and feel the torque I've checked them and I'm within 2ft lbs Generally if you undue them with a long bar and do them up with a short (normal length) bar And never an air ratchet your ok I generally check important stuff with a decent torque wrench and use good quality long reach sockets on Ali wheel nuts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Does anyone actually use a torque wrench for doing their nuts up or even know the correct torque? Yes, always! My torque wrench is in metric, so I go for 110Nm (~81lb/ft). Part of the weekly checks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 A good price will be about £280 for a set. It may be worth noting they will need some sort of coating to stop galling between the nuts and the studs... The only process I can easily lay my hands on is silver or gold plating. Which you can't do with titanium as easily. The only real bitch with machining Titanium is tapping it I was planning on chasing it. Only thing I'm worried about is length of thread engagement, what's the recommended depth for number of threads? I think I've hit a road block, as my boring bar is only 19mm long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 (edited) It depends how much of the stud sticks out through the wheel, be worth measuring this before you start. You'll have to add on X mm's for how much is in the cone as well as how much is actually above the wheel face 15 mm would give you 10 full threads with a 1.5 mm pitch so that would be fine as far as thread engagement goes. Edited February 18, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 (edited) I've managed to get 19mm of thread, should do th trick. I just tried something random on the end, but I think a small nut would save a lot more weight, I think I could save 40% of the weight by just having a standard style and remove any tip whatsoever. This was just an idea and to make sure I was confident on thread finish. I tried the cone end as was trying out the program that I may use for stainless versions. It's come out really well, so now to change the design for something smaller. Do people agree? I was thinking something like: Still not sure what to do about coating them. I've heard mixed opinions about having soft steel studs and it not being an issue. Edited February 28, 2013 by Noz (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 If your making them for Adrian Newey then yes i'd guess saving another gram or two would matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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