Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 After I bought my auto BPU'd RZ-S I found that it refused to change up at full throttle, this turned out to due to a faulty speed converter but planted the seed of doubt in my head as I have very little knowledge or experience of automatic transmissions. Are the following normal? 1. When engaging a gear after start up it usually engages with a jolt, sometimes just a little one, sometimes more severe? 2. When stationary (at traffic lights for example) and in D there is a vibration at just the right frequency to make the glovebox lid rattle, but If I go to P then all is fine. 3. It feels a little slow getting off the line but again I'm used to manual cars so have nothing to compare it to. Is this just the torque converter doing its thing? Does the above sound normal? I am planning on changing the fluid, I've read that. Removing the sump plug will allow to remove just 2 litres, but to do a full fluid flush is a lot more involved and probably best left to an expert. Would the 2 litre change make a noticeable difference? How much does a full flush cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 After I bought my auto BPU'd RZ-S I found that it refused to change up at full throttle, this turned out to due to a faulty speed converter but planted the seed of doubt in my head as I have very little knowledge or experience of automatic transmissions. Are the following normal? 1. When engaging a gear after start up it usually engages with a jolt, sometimes just a little one, sometimes more severe? I occasionally had this and the 'thud' varied but it wasn't anything concerning. Not sure if this is normal but I'd imagine it would make some sort of mechanical noise. 2. When stationary (at traffic lights for example) and in D there is a vibration at just the right frequency to make the glovebox lid rattle, but If I go to P then all is fine. Not the gearbox, check if it is idling low, possibly the cause of the vibrations and no it shouldn't vibrate that much. 3. It feels a little slow getting off the line but again I'm used to manual cars so have nothing to compare it to. Is this just the torque converter doing its thing? Nope, should be pretty quick off the mark, maybe not as quick initially off the line as you can hit the revs and dump the clutch in a manual. Does the above sound normal? I am planning on changing the fluid, I've read that. Removing the sump plug will allow to remove just 2 litres, but to do a full fluid flush is a lot more involved and probably best left to an expert. Would the 2 litre change make a noticeable difference? How much does a full flush cost? 1. When engaging a gear after start up it usually engages with a jolt, sometimes just a little one, sometimes more severe? I occasionally had this and the 'thud' varied but it wasn't anything concerning. Not sure if this is normal but I'd imagine it would make some sort of mechanical noise. 2. When stationary (at traffic lights for example) and in D there is a vibration at just the right frequency to make the glovebox lid rattle, but If I go to P then all is fine. Not the gearbox, check if it is idling low, possibly the cause of the vibrations and no it shouldn't vibrate that much. 3. It feels a little slow getting off the line but again I'm used to manual cars so have nothing to compare it to. Is this just the torque converter doing its thing? Nope, should be pretty quick off the mark, maybe not as quick initially off the line as you can hit the revs and dump the clutch in a manual. Not sure on the fluid side, I was advised not to do a full flush unless something was wrong. Have you checked the gearbox oil using the dip in the bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 1. I get a slight thunk engaging D or R but only from cold when the autochoke is holding higher revs. When settled there's nothing. 2. Vibration at idle could more likely be engine mounts. Mine used to vibrate like a good un until they were changed - not a thing now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 (edited) Thanks for the feedback, what's the best way to check engine mounts? If it was engine mounts wouldn't the vibration also be there when the transmission is in P though? Edited February 10, 2013 by Big Mark (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 No - mine disappeared when in P and N before the mounts were changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boge Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I get 1&2 most of the time. I presume the clunk is just the forward motion coming on while you still hold the brakes? And with the rattle, would engines mounts be going in under 45000 miles? I have a tiptronic and don't think the rattle occurs in the low gears rather than D? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 I think I better get my engine mounts checked.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Mine seems to "drop" down into 1st when slowing down under braking a little early and you can certainly feel the "engine braking" come in .....maybe this is something to do with the speed convertor ??? .......I also get 1 and 2 !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 After I bought my auto BPU'd RZ-S I found that it refused to change up at full throttle, this turned out to due to a faulty speed converter but planted the seed of doubt in my head as I have very little knowledge or experience of automatic transmissions. Are the following normal? 1. When engaging a gear after start up it usually engages with a jolt, sometimes just a little one, sometimes more severe? There's a big, rubber donut connecting the prop to the diff, check thats not toast. Also, if theres any doubt as to an auto box's operation first port of call should be a full fluid flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 There's a big, rubber donut connecting the prop to the diff, check thats not toast. Also, if theres any doubt as to an auto box's operation first port of call should be a full fluid flush. Is a full fluid flush a DIY job or best left to a good garage? Any idea on cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I heard to do a full flush you had to fit some form of positive pressure pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 I heard to do a full flush you had to fit some form of positive pressure pump? Sounds like a garage job then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 That's what I was told but again like others have said...Apparently it's bad to change the whole fluid unless there's something seriously wrong like a rebuild. God knows why. Surely all new fluid is always going to be a good thing???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul372 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 When changing the the fluid you might as well do the filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 I agree, we wouldn't change just a litre of our engine oil after-all. Plus I'm guessing I've still got the original transmission fluid in my box so surely it is long overdue a complete flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Sounds like its long overdue, what colour is it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guigsy Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 The vibration thing is prob the engine mounts. They do go early in facelifts. It will feel slower taking off from a standstill. It's just the smoothness that's deceptive. Rather than the jerking and wheelspinning in a manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Fluid is very dark so agree it's long overdue. Can anyone recommend a garage in the midlands and any idea of the price? I'll have to look into engine mounts by the sounds of it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 That's what I was told but again like others have said...Apparently it's bad to change the whole fluid unless there's something seriously wrong like a rebuild. God knows why. Surely all new fluid is always going to be a good thing???? I agree, we wouldn't change just a litre of our engine oil after-all. Plus I'm guessing I've still got the original transmission fluid in my box so surely it is long overdue a complete flush. I can't remember the exact reasons why but it was something to do with iron fillings or substance in the gearbox transmission? It was quite a long time ago I asked this and to be honest the garage didn't specialise in Supra's, they just recommended not to completely flush the system unless something was really bad on the box. I was thinking along the same lines as you guys that like an engine oil it would be a good idea to flush the system. Hopefully someone with more knowledge on this can correct us on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Fluid is very dark so agree it's long overdue. Can anyone recommend a garage in the midlands and any idea of the price? I'll have to look into engine mounts by the sounds of it too. If you are in the Midlands then I'd recommend Garage 786, owned by AshBhp on this very forum: http://www.garage786.co.uk/ With regards to the engine mounts only the facelift Supra's seemed to be effected by this, is yours a facelift? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I can recommend my local village garage, they do plenty of work on all my cars including the supra and don't charge silly hourly rates. You don't need a specialist in supras to do this job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 My car is pre-facelift. I've got a garage next door to work that has done some little jobs on my car, thought gearbox flush may be best left to a Supra specialist, may see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 If youre not bad with a spanner you can do it yourself, but its a pain in the arse refilling the box lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fizzy T Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 If you do it yourself make sure the refill plug comes out before you drain out your oil lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Theres no refill plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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