Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 (edited) So I thought I would start this thread in relation to my strange dyno result thread as this is the main topic of why my reading was all over the place. Basically my torque converter is not locking up giving me a sluggish top end and a high fuel consumption on motorways. Is 4000rpm normal at 70mph? So the information I have so far is that the lock up switch is activated by pin 14b in the O.E ECU. I understand I need to test continuety between this pin and the gearbox connection and also output voltage from pin 14b. So the questions I have, as I have no electrical knowledge what so ever are - 1) Do I measure resistance from pin 14b with a multimeter with the car at WOT in 3rd, at idle or with the battery disconnected? 2) How do I measure the resistance do I splice into the wire or pull it out completely and plug the multimeter in? 3) Am I right in thinking that lock up should only occur in 3rd & 4th? EDIT: Just found this - LOCK-UP OPERATION When the engine control module decides, based on each signal, that the lock-up condition has been met, the current through EFI NO. 1 fuse flows from the EFI main relay to TERMINAL 3 of the electronically controlled transmission solenoid to TERMINAL 7 to TERMINAL (B) 14 of the engine control module to GROUND, so continuity to No. 3 (for lock-up) causes lock-up. Thanks Edited January 28, 2013 by Kaan W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Dads does 80-85mph at 3000RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littler Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Mine does 70mph at about 2600rpm (in overdrive)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Dads does 80-85mph at 3000RPM. Well then mines definately not locking up! Thats in 3rd also, 4th only switches on once I take my foot off the accelerator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Get a wire that you know is complete attach to one end of 14b wire put one test probe on one end of your wire and one on the other end of 14b Basically create yourself a loop of wire so you can test at one point ( ill get a pic ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 Get a wire that you know is complete attach to one end of 14b wire put one test probe on one end of your wire and one on the other end of 14b Basically create yourself a loop of wire so you can test at one point ( ill get a pic ) Yeah a pic would help alot, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 here[ATTACH=CONFIG]163495[/ATTACH] Thanks mate What will this be testing, the output of the ECU pin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 no the continuity of the wire, it should have no resistance. then you know there is no breaks in the wire. To measure the voltage you will need to get it all plugged back up, and tap in to the wire and see if it registers a voltage while driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 no the continuity of the wire, it should have no resistance. then you know there is no breaks in the wire. To measure the voltage you will need to get it all plugged back up, and tap in to the wire and see if it registers a voltage while driving it. Oh I see, so basically put the red and black probes on either end of the wire I think may be broken and if theres resistance then its broke? But to test pin 14b it will be voltage and I would have to earth the multi meter then put the red probe onto the pin and read the voltage when the torque converter should be locking up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 Oh I see, so basically put the red and black probes on either end of the wire I think may be broken and if theres resistance then its broke? yes and you use another piece of wire to act as a lead extension But to test pin 14b it will be voltage and I would have to earth the multi meter then put the red probe onto the pin and read the voltage when the torque converter should be locking up? this is correct, do you know what voltage you are looking for ? im guessing somewhere between 5-12v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 this is correct, do you know what voltage you are looking for ? im guessing somewhere between 5-12v I dont have a clue tbh and ive been looking at manuals all day but still havent gathered any usefull information that I need. I could probably fix it myself if I new what to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 Does anyone know how I test the lock up solonoid wire to see if the ECU is sending a signal or not? As above in post #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yakky Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Everyone's advice above applies - it's all good. One hour of technician time at most - maybe bite the bullet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew_flux Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Small question, what box is in your car? your first post has gte wirring numbers then the edit has the ge discription. if gte the ecu takes ign based power from the solenoid to ground. if ge the ecu outputs power to the solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 Time to go manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 Everyone's advice above applies - it's all good. One hour of technician time at most - maybe bite the bullet? Its not about biting the bullet mate ive had cash waiting to pay soneone to fix this asap. I dont think anyone knows to be honest so im gunno have to rip everything apart and figure for my self! Small question, what box is in your car? your first post has gte wirring numbers then the edit has the ge discription. if gte the ecu takes ign based power from the solenoid to ground. if ge the ecu outputs power to the solenoid. Its a GTE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.