CanisLupus Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I've tried searching for that topic on here but didn't find anything. I have an Aluminum Strut brace installed which i'm intending to change as it isn't stiffenning anything...:rolleyes: Now i'm trying to find out if Aluminum braces are inferior in terms of stiffening compared to Steel braces? To be more specific i have in mind getting a TRD Steel one or maybe a Tein one: Tein The car will be used on track and priority is stiffness not 500grams of weight reduction. So what would be the best one to get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I honestly wouldn't of thought it would make any difference what material it was made from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hackin_n_bashin Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I've always been under the impression that they don't actually do anything. To make a noticeable difference you'll need something triangulated back to the bulkhead. Ready to be put correct, but I've never seen an actual test done, only on peoples buttock dyno's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) On a double wishbone suspension like the Supras they are practically redundant as the top mount of the coilover experiences very little in the line of lateral stresses unlike a McPherson strut. Having said that I still have one fitted to the car myself, a solid (no hinges or adjusting points) Carbing alloy unit. The main reason for having it is that it doubles as a brake master cylinder brace and stops the bulk head from flexing around the servo under heavy braking. A Carbing brace for the NA engine like the one pictured above will also fit a TT engined car, I now have a 1JZ TT engine fitted with this brace in place. A TT brace will NOT fit an NA engined car without work. Edited January 3, 2013 by pedrosixfour (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I never really noticed any advantages but i guess you would if you hit the track hard, as they reduce body roll. I know my chrome TRD blistered my bonnet though as it got stupidly hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 It makes sense to me that having a hinge is defeating the point of a strut brace I went with the Carbing as well, the rear one actually bolts to the floor as well as the Struts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPG Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I was looking through my Stockholm pics and noticed that a few of the standard factory cars have triangulated braces like the Fisker Karma below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I went with the Carbing as well, the rear one actually bolts to the floor as well as the Struts I went with the DoLuck rear for this same reason! I was looking through my Stockholm pics and noticed that a few of the standard factory cars have triangulated braces like the Fisker Karma below http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb343/Suprasun1996/DSC03084_zps62682e93.jpg MR2s have triangulated braces like this so it's nothing new...I'd say a decent set of ARBs would be more beneficial, but I fitted the strut braces as I like the way they look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I went with the DoLuck rear for this same reason! Yes I remember:badmood: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you jack the car up at the front using the middle of the subframe and then try to remove the strut brace, you'll find out it does actually do something The droop of both suspension turrets pretty much hold it in place even with the nuts removed. Whether this affects handling perceptibly is a different matter, but there is deffo some flex there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 I guess an Aristo brace shows you what Mr T thinks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 I honestly wouldn't of thought it would make any difference what material it was made from That is the question I never really noticed any advantages but i guess you would if you hit the track hard, as they reduce body roll. It will be hitting the track often and HARD! I went with the DoLuck rear for this same reason! MR2s have triangulated braces like this so it's nothing new...I'd say a decent set of ARBs would be more beneficial, but I fitted the strut braces as I like the way they look. I already have adjustable Titan ARBs and they made considerable difference but i still want to stiffen the car. Next point after the Brace will most likely be a Full Cage If you jack the car up at the front using the middle of the subframe and then try to remove the strut brace, you'll find out it does actually do something The droop of both suspension turrets pretty much hold it in place even with the nuts removed. Whether this affects handling perceptibly is a different matter, but there is deffo some flex there. It made a significant difference on my other car regarding the handling. Maybe with the Supras design there will be less effect but it can't hurt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Unless it's welded in, or a really stout triangulated structure it's not going to do anything worthwhile. Most are just expensive shiny bits. The Aristo factory bar looks quite well made, as you would expect. The Fisker attempt looks typical expensive kit car afterthought, and not something they should be very proud of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 (edited) Unless it's welded in, or a really stout triangulated structure it's not going to do anything worthwhile. Most are just expensive shiny bits. The Aristo factory bar looks quite well made, as you would expect. The Fisker attempt looks typical expensive kit car afterthought, and not something they should be very proud of Would you rate the TRD or Tein as such usefull braces? If not how would you build one to be really helpfull in stiffening the front end on a supra? I'm thinking about getting one built anyway. Edited January 4, 2013 by CanisLupus (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Good God no, bits of bent tin! Look at some proper Touring Cars from the eighties / nineties for ideas. Most had bolt on strut bars to make it easier for engine removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Good God no, bits of bent tin! Look at some proper Touring Cars from the eighties / nineties for ideas. Most had bolt on strut bars to make it easier for engine removal. Hehehe Thanks already looking around. I really like this one: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DodgyRog Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Hehehe Thanks already looking around. I really like this one: http://i49.tinypic.com/v9l03.jpg Haha, that's a roll cage for the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CanisLupus Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Haha, that's a roll cage for the engine Sort of yes :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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