supra_ufo Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 The oil return is shown clearly in the 2nd pic below, two pipes into one into a ali section and through the sump. From your previous photos I think there is evidence of oil up higher on the silver cylinder with rod thingy! so I would remove the main rubber intake pipe between the airbox and the aluminium top part of the sequential system and then the alloy turbo cover/shield (just the two clearly visible nuts to undo I think - spray them liberally with penetrating fluid as they can be easy to shear/round as they are often rusty) as this should make looking at the turbo feed/drains easier and hopefully give you something to take more pics of. If it's an oily mess then I would clean/degrease it and possibly even run it for a SHORT time with no air filter to spot the actual source Thank you mate, I will attempt this tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 The oil return is shown clearly in the 2nd pic below, two pipes into one into a ali section and through the sump. From your previous photos I think there is evidence of oil up higher on the silver cylinder with rod thingy! so I would remove the main rubber intake pipe between the airbox and the aluminium top part of the sequential system and then the alloy turbo cover/shield (just the two clearly visible nuts to undo I think - spray them liberally with penetrating fluid as they can be easy to shear/round as they are often rusty) as this should make looking at the turbo feed/drains easier and hopefully give you something to take more pics of. If it's an oily mess then I would clean/degrease it and possibly even run it for a SHORT time with no air filter to spot the actual source Took what I could off Started up (its not probably best practice to start with no filter on but it was for a few mins) The leak appeared to be coming from the high lighted area... From what I can tell its the turbo! Can someone please tell me what it could be and what I need to replace or check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Oil return feed is what you have highlighted. Check the bolts are tight, there are only two. If they are tight, then the gasket may have gone to pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Oil return feed is what you have highlighted. Check the bolts are tight, there are only two. If they are tight, then the gasket may have gone to pot. Thanks Listy I have also uploaded a video which shows at around 30 seconds in where its mainly coming from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVsgr275iWc Im not an expert but looks like a gasket maybe? If thats the case do I need to drain the car of oil before I change this? I will tighten everything up first, clean again and run the engine (also take a longer video from the leak!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 All I can see is drips in that video. If you can get a video of the oil return it could confirm/rule that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 that is a video of the high lighted area ill clean it up, tighten bolts and take another video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 The bottom rad hose to rad clip is still on the hose a few inches up from where it should be. Someone will have removed it then found their plier's jaws wouldn't open up far enough to compress it again, to put it back on, so left it..... As for the leak get it steamed off properly and pay for ramp time. On a ramp it'll be obvious where it's coming from, I would have thought. Probably an oil drain gasket on the turbos. Fiddly job on a ramp. PITA on your back. Various tricks to doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 Chris is it safe to move the car anywhere in this condition? My nearest garage is about 3 miles away, I wanted to do it myself a) save costs b) learn. As you can probably tell I have little or next to non technical knowledge, my day job is in I.T lol. The leak is coming from that area I high lighted above, I dont think there is any need to get under the car, your the expert tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 So long as it's not pouring out, almost certainly yes. Fill to 8mm above the full mark on level ground and you can lose three pints before things get ultra critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 8, 2013 Author Share Posted January 8, 2013 So long as it's not pouring out, almost certainly yes. Fill to 8mm above the full mark on level ground and you can lose three pints before things get ultra critical. I would say it would lose about a litre on a 3 mile journey. thanks Chris, Never noticed that clip, I managed to move it down the hose and in the same position as it was originally (based on the intentation) It still doesnt look right though... The bit I have high lighted in the attachment, should that not be covered by the hose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 The hose is on too far, release the clip and pull the hose off until flush with the end of the orientation indicator ridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 I'd fit a new hose while your at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 I'd fit a new hose while your at it I'll get this replaced, I need to drain it anyway as the water looks a bit mucky. Cheers Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 12, 2013 Share Posted January 12, 2013 (edited) I'll get this replaced, I need to drain it anyway as the water looks a bit mucky. Cheers Chris. Use a pre mix Ethylene Glycol based coolant or Coolred from Toyota (approx £20 for 5 litres) you'll need just under 9 litres for an empty system, don't use tap water even to mix with. It would also pay to fit a new o/e thermostat at the same time for what they cost. Edited January 12, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 Evening folks, one of the forum members iky (thanks) came down today to double check it and the leak is defo coming from the underside of the oil return I am struggling to find the correct part number for the gasket for the oil return http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_J_1994_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-AJPZZ_1.html Does anyone know which gasket I need to buy? Can someone also check the following part numbers to make sure I have the correct ones please... I want replacement hoses and clips for the top and bottom radiator hoses & a thermostat 16331A THERMOSTAT 90916‑03093 2JZ*..JZA80, ＊ＷＡＸ ８２－９５ 1 $41.74 16571 HOSE, RADIATOR, INLET 16571‑46150 2JZGTE..JZA80 1 $25.66 16571A CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR INLET) 90467‑37006 2JZ*..JZA80 2 $5.65 16572 HOSE, RADIATOR, OUTLET 16572‑46160 2JZ*..JZA80 1 $27.00 16572A CLAMP OR CLIP, HOSE(FOR RADIATOR OUTLET NO.1) 90467‑37006 2JZ*..JZA80, RADIATOR SIDE 1 $5.65 90467‑41007 2JZGTE..JZA80, ENGINE SIDE 1 $6.01 Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted January 13, 2013 Share Posted January 13, 2013 I'd try Keron before ordering from the states mate (I'm guessing that's why prices are in $) Also, Whifbitz do silicone rad hoses which can be colour coded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 13, 2013 Author Share Posted January 13, 2013 I'd try Keron before ordering from the states mate (I'm guessing that's why prices are in $) Also, Whifbitz do silicone rad hoses which can be colour coded Purely part numbers (unless there different depending on location???), I was going to get these from the local Toyota dealer as they should be some what cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted January 14, 2013 Share Posted January 14, 2013 (edited) No worries mate, it's always nice to look at other peoples Supras http://whifbitzperformancetuning.co.uk/toyota-supra-turbo-upgrades-toyota-parts-toyota-p-15011.html This seems to be what you need for the turbo drain. 15471-46010 http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/diag_1j2XkgN.png You should really have a closer look at the pipe as well, just to make sure is not cracked near the flange where it bolts onto the bottom of the turbo. Edited January 14, 2013 by Iky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 17, 2013 Author Share Posted January 17, 2013 MAJOR FAIL... So I managed to borrow some extensions off a mate to take the above off to replace the gasket... I spoken to a mechanic who said I would need to take the nut off *at this point I must of switched of*... So I started on the bolt from the offside and it happened to be a 13mm nut, took it off, it was pretty tight but managed, once off I put the nut aside and I moved onto the other bolt...For some reason the 13mm wasn't fitting onto the other bolt..I scratched my head and thought EUREKA that's why its leaking, it doesn't have a nut on it! I aimed my torch on it and couldn't make the shape out well... and then remembered my mechanic mentioning something about a star shape tool, so I went and got it and started to take it off... AND THEN this happened It turned out that there was a very oily 12mm nut on it! I managed to get the 12mm off but Now I cant get the bolt itself off as the thread is damaged and there is nothing to grip onto!! At this point I wanted to give up on life! I was fuming... why would someone put a 12MM and a 13MM nut on the same part! but fact is, it was my own fault, I should of looked carefully and saw that there was a smaller nut. There is a bit of thread from the bolt I removed to maybe grip onto (using a grip plier) but from under its going to be difficult. Can someone please tell me whether it would be ok to remove the pipe which I believe is a water pipe, in order to get the grip into place? Last thing I want is an ejaculation of oil / water in my face! The picture below with the red arrow shows the area with the pipe in the way and shows the bolt (yes it also shows a nut! ) thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Hi mate, I see you managed to get both nuts off in the end:), Is it necessary to take the studs out as well? I thought you could just pull the pipe down and change the gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 Studs need to come out, doing one at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 18, 2013 Author Share Posted January 18, 2013 I have a mole grip, I am going to give that a go tonight and hopefully remove it! Ill have to get a replacement from Toyota unless this is a standard "stud/bolt". Chris is it normal to have one 13mm and the other 12mm or has someone been messing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 OE is two 12mm across the flats all steel locknuts (Aerotight nuts). It doesn't matter if one's 13 mm though. Obviously the Torx end of the stud makes removal easy with a Torx socket on a long extension. Studs are Toyota only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 (edited) Can someone please identify the part high lighted? I have looked at the supra PDF manuals and I cant not see what this is or its function. Its in my way when trying unscrew the bolt and I want to take it off, I have taken the heat shield off from it and can see the three bolts from under the car.. What are the implications of removing this? Thanks. Edited January 19, 2013 by supra_ufo DUR forgot attachment (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 It's the exhaust gas control valve. The bolts holding it to the manifold are often seized and prime candidates to shear off, only remove if vital. I'd tow it to a ramp and get a pro to sort it out, there should be no need to remove it at all, but there again, if you can't get purchase on the now smaller length drain stud.....If it will come off there are no real implications at all, it's not a grenade! I would say it's approaching engine out time to do a proper repair job. Now you can see why I won't quote fixed prices on some jobs It might be easier and safer to remove the valve's sandwich plate by undoing the three nuts on the through studs. You may find them tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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