Removing Crank Pulley 2JZGE

[Chris Wilson]

If you try and pull it off via the outer rim, two things bad could happen. You will crack a piece or two off, and / or you will weaken or shear the rubber bond that makes it a two piece damper. You MUST use the provided 8 mm threaded holes in the inner, solid section!!

 

If it really isn't your day you will find someone thought Loctite a good idea on the interference fit. Then it will not pull off until you use a big rose bud tip on a welding torch and get it mad hot to kill the Loctite. The pulley is then scrap because of the heat put into the elastomer ring, and probably the oil pump seal is as well, again, because of the heat. The cam belt crank pulley can be pulled off with a miniature version of the main tool, if that happens, or you want to change the pump seal anyway. If you lever on the star wheel crimped onto the cam belt pulley it will break the crimps and will need straightening and spot TIG welding by someone neat and tidy that looks where the shoulder of the crank has to sit and does NOT get get weld on that area!!

 

Have I seen some abortions in that regard in my time!

 

With the right gear it's (usually) very easy. Without it you may well be cursing and ranting.

 

You then need to lock the pulley or the crank up to torque the big pulley bolt up properly. Again, you really need to make, beg, borrow or steal the right tool. A GOOD small but powerful air gun that fits in the space available will do in a pinch.

Edited January 14, 2016 by Chris Wilson (see edit history)

[P8wle]

Ye I have already got the pulley off and have been using the m8 holes but it just bent my pulley tool, the straight bit of steel with slits cut out either side

[Chris Wilson]

All tools are not equal. I make pullers about twice as strong as I think reasonable, making another becomes a PITA They don't have to be pretty, just HEFTY.

[Mr Cull]

For this post it seemed more appropriate to post it here in this thread rather than creating a new thread.

This existing thread has had some recent activity and also some of the things already covered are relevant to my new post below...

 

 

 

I went out for a short Sunday drive the other day and a few miles in I started hearing what sounds like belt squeal when accelerating medium/hard from standstill. But when accelerating softly from standstill this did not happen. I limped home.

 

Thinking a new serpentine belt might be needed I gone one on order.

 

After removing the old belt I soon found that the Crank Pulley had de-laminated and split apart:

 

 

Its not a great pic but the part where the belt runs over came off and felt to the under tray.

 

The Pulley should of course look like this:

 

 

 

This is now the second time I've had a Crank Pulley split apart on a Supe.

The last one split when starting the engine and luckily I was parked at home at the time.

Therefore I recommend if anyone does any servicing which requires removing their Crank Pulley then consider putting a new one if you don't know the history of the current one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought I'd document some of the progress and problems I have encountered when trying to change the Pulley...

 

 

 

First thing is that the Supe's an auto and not manual so I needed a way to lock the Crank to stop it turning when trying to loosen the bolt.

As I didn't fancy trying to lock the flywheel I needed something like the SST tool:

 

 

 

I didn't fancy paying all the money for the official one so I thought I'd have a go at making one myself.

 

There are a few images in this and other threads of a steel tools that people have fabricated.

I was not in a position to be making things out of steel but I did have some sturdy wood knocking about.

 

Using the new Crank as a template I quickly and easily drilled/cored the wood.

This is then intended to be bolted onto the old crank on the engine as per below images example showing it bolted onto the new crank:

 

 

(The end of wood then rests against the frame or floor and stop the crank turning when trying to undo the bolt with a breaker bar)

 

 

I managed to get one of the M8 bolts into the crank but could not get the other in.

On closer inspection I can see that the remains of a snapped off bolt is lodged in the crank:

 

 

 

During a previous service someone must have snapped this off.

I assume this was done when trying to remove the crank.

I'm thinking that someone must snapped it, removed the Pulley with a “claw” type Puller and then put the bloody thing back on!

The cars had a few Cam belt replacements in recent years and all servicing work has been performed by Mr T

 

 

So now I was faced with two problems:

1) How do I stop the Crank from turning to undo the bolt

2) How do I get the Pulley off now its got a snapped bolt in and also separated apart so that a “claw” type Puller wont be easy to use.

 

First things first...

 

I went for the starter motor trick to loosen the bolt.

I cannot not recommend doing this for the obvious dangers involved.

But it worked a treat for me.

 

I managed to take a short blurry video:

 

 

 

So one problem down but the biggest one still to go.

How to pull the thing off.

 

I cannot use my current Puller tool as this needs to be able to screw into both holes:

 

 

 

 

As mentioned above in this post there are other types of “claw” Pullers which fit over where the belt runs:

 

 

 

 

As CW mentions these are generally not recommended as they put large amount of force on parts of the Pulley that aren't deigned to take it.

I wouldn't be surprised if someone had previously used one of these on my Pulley, due to the snapped bolt, and therefore weakened the structure and caused it to fail on me the other day(???).

 

 

As my Pulley is already knackered I'm not worried about damaging it further to get it off.

But as the Pulley on my Supe has split apart I was thinking there was not much chance of successfully using this type of Puller.

On closer inspection of the Pulley I can see there is a small gap, perhaps one or two mm where a puller arms could perhaps be wedged in to get some purchase:

 

 

 

But the material behind it is rubbery and therefore may not be strong enough to take the force required.

 

On the off chance one of these might work I ordered one of these cheap Pullers.

But this has no chance of working not least due to the fat ends of it:

 

 

 

I then ordered a different sort of Puller which I thought I might be able to clamp onto the side of the Pulley tight enough to force it of:

 

 

 

But I foolishly didn't check the size and this for a much smaller Pulley.

 

 

So this is far as I have got.

Before I try anything too drastic like removing the rad and drilling/tapping the snapped bolt out I thought I'd post on there to see if anyone else has faced similar problems or if there are any recommendations for other tools or techniques I could try.

 

 

As always very much looking forward to the comments/advise from members

[Chris Wilson]

Don't try and drill the old broken puller bolt out, just drill and tap 2 *NEW* holes, they don't even need to be *EXACTLY* 180 degrees apart, the things scrap once it's off anyway. Worse case scenario is it's been Loctited on to the crank nose. Then you WILL need a lot of heat, applied very fast, to kill the Loctite. For this the only suitable tool is a proper oxy / acetylene torch with a BIG rose bud tip on it.

 

Then pull it off whilst still hot. Replace the pump oil seal if you use heat!! I have stock and my high tension ones in stock.

 

 

REAL Heath Robinson idea. Drill 3 big holes in the periphery of the outer ring you have been trying to get the puller jaws to grip. They may grip on the edge of the holes, or you could butcher the puller jaws to enter the holes (1/2" minimum...) better.

Edited February 8, 2016 by Chris Wilson (see edit history)

[Scooter]

I have a metal tool/doughnut that fills the pulleys recess, it has the two small holes and the central one is made so the 22mm socket only just fits inside. What this does (look at your pictures of the bolt) is as you undo the bolt it's back flare/washer part can't follow up the same whole as the head/socket and so it pulls off the pulley at the same time as you undo the bolt.

 

I'm not certain the wood will be man enough, but you could try the same (if you could fit an even larger washer over the bolt head to make the bolt flare even bigger it would help), with one bolt again it might be tricky, but you could drill another hole in the wood near the pulleys outer most part and with a bolt and washers clamp it to the pulleys outer edge.

[Mr Cull]

Thanks CW and good point as always regarding no point drilling out the old bolt.

Also interesting idea regarding the claw puller.

I'm really hoping its not been Loctited

 

 

Cheers also for the post Scooter.

Yeah I can imagine now how the doughnut puller works.

You've given me an idea.

I've ordered a strong flanged M8 bolt and also a penny washer.

If I'm really lucky might be able to have some joy with those and just the one bolt.

 

I haven't had chance to have a try again yet but I'll post up here if I get any success or major failures...