Josh42 Posted December 30, 2012 Author Share Posted December 30, 2012 Hi all, the rad is already out so maybe an impact gun is an option? I was trying to avoid it as I wasn't sure what damage it could potentially cause? And Shane, if you could PM me a photo and some dimensions or ideas ill get one made up at work mate. Thanks again for sorting my plug for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 As rough as it is, I have used this on 3 different cars now and it has worked first and every time. The one I made it for in the photo would not budge by cranking power nor would it with a massive air gun from a local HGV yard, but once clamped up with lots of leverage it finally cracked. The bolt on this one appeared to have been locktited in a previous life. I also replaced the bolt on this one and if you do a quick search the part no is on here somewhere. I am off tomorrow so should be able to provide some dims if required, but to be honest 2 bits of random angle bolted or welded into a y and a couple of strong bolts to go into the threaded holes in the pulley is all you need. The sides of the angle need to be flat against the outer face of the pulley and if you can find spacers to fit between the angle and the inner face of the pulley, although saying this on the last 2 I have used it on I didn't have these, but they do hold it nice and tight. The proper toyota tool has a ring that sits inside the recess of the pulley I believe so that sits really square and tight. No prob re the plug, you might want to just check it is the correct one, am pretty sure it is though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazuk Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Do a search I had one made off here someone posted up the cad style drawing pop this down to your local machine shop they make it out of billet and drill the two hole ready for it to get bolted on, the only bit you have to make is the y handle easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Just a thought, I recall reading a thread that there is a a way of locking up the engine via a access plate in the bell housing, never looked into it myself, but it may be worth finding out before you go to too much effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Just a thought, I recall reading a thread that there is a a way of locking up the engine via a access plate in the bell housing, never looked into it myself, but it may be worth finding out before you go to too much effort. I wouldnt reccomend using the flywheel to lock the engine up. I think the picture you posted above will be a much easier and quicker method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I wouldnt reccomend using the flywheel to lock the engine up. I think the picture you posted above will be a much easier and quicker method. Why's that then? The only reason I can think of is the amount of torque going through the crank, but in the grand scheme of things, that is nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Locking the flex plate or flywheel is just fine. Heating the bolt means a new pulley, maybe a new oil pump seal too. Only reason to heat it is if some dipstick has Loctited it in place, like this damned thing I have in at the moment. Will need a new pulley.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Why's that then? The only reason I can think of is the amount of torque going through the crank, but in the grand scheme of things, that is nothing. I just thought it would be an easier method bracing the pulley than wedging something in the flywheel and risking bending it, well it probably would if I tried anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 You won't bend the flywheel! Or the crank. Not even with 1000ft lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Chris what is it you use to lock the flywheel and how much would one of these tools set me back as I seem to of misplaced mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I made a plate to lock the ring gear, it bolts on instead of the starter motor, and has two "teeth" to engage the teeth of the ring gear. A one off. Nothing commercially available as far as I know. If you drill a 3/4 inch hole in the right place in the bellhousing you can get an assistant to jam the ring gear with a good quality pry bar end. You also get to tell the guys down the pub how you have been lightening your car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BradD Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 make a trip to see me .I have the tools to remove.you can borrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethr Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 Thr part numbers for the Toyota locking tool are: 09330-00021 - the handle 09213-70011 - the part that bolts to the pulley You can buy a couple of aftermarket versions for 60 or 70 dollars on US ebay, but I haven't seen them over here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjavon Posted December 31, 2012 Share Posted December 31, 2012 I done a timing belt removal thread on another site, here's the bit with a simple tool I made to get the crank pulley off incase it helps anyone. Once you've cracked the bolt set timing timing again and remove the bolt. Now the pulley needs to be taken off. I think it's an interference fit so some sort of pulley is needed to remove it. I made a flat bar with a M12 tapped hole in the middle (drill it 10.5 and then use an M12 taper tap) and two 8.5mm clearance holes, again at 65mm centres, then fix the bar as picture below Then screw in the 12mm bolt and slowly but surely the pulley comes off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d-_-b Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 (edited) I done a timing belt removal thread on another site, here's the bit with a simple tool I made to get the crank pulley off incase it helps anyone. Once you've cracked the bolt set timing timing again and remove the bolt. Now the pulley needs to be taken off. I think it's an interference fit so some sort of pulley is needed to remove it. I made a flat bar with a M12 tapped hole in the middle (drill it 10.5 and then use an M12 taper tap) and two 8.5mm clearance holes, again at 65mm centres, then fix the bar as picture below http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd28/pjavon/Cambelt/IMAG0581.jpg Then screw in the 12mm bolt and slowly but surely the pulley comes off. http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd28/pjavon/Cambelt/IMAG0582.jpg Nice!! So simple but can see how that would work so easily. Essentially is pushing the pulley away from the crank We used a puller but Its a little tight getting the grips around the pulley and the engine is out - Your method much more "in situ" friendly!! Edited January 3, 2013 by d-_-b (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you "pull" on the outer of the pulley you are putting tremendous loads into the rubber bonding in a direction itr was never designed to take and may well de-laminate the bonding. You MUST pull on the centre hub via the bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 If you "pull" on the outer of the pulley you are putting tremendous loads into the rubber bonding in a direction itr was never designed to take and may well de-laminate the bonding. You MUST pull on the centre hub via the bolt holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 That's absolutely top info above! Thanks very much everyone:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Right, bad news, Made up a tool at work to pull the pulley off... Just gone out to take a look and the person who owned the car before me has snapped a thread in one of the two M8 holes which are used to draw the pulley off. Any suggestions as I'm unsure about drilling and tapping them out as it may throw the balance of the pulley out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 Drill it out and tap it to the least diameter you can get away with. Leave the other hole @ 8mm. I can rebalance the damper as I have made a mandrel for flywheels and (stock) dampers, as I balance engines as individual components and sanity check as a complete rotating assembly all fastened together. Balance would be about £35. New damper a LOT more! Other option is a new damper....Or leave and hope it's not far out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted January 3, 2013 Author Share Posted January 3, 2013 Ill get it off and get it over to you then Chris. Ill give you a call at some point tomorrow if that's okay? Cheers! Josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 3, 2013 Share Posted January 3, 2013 No problem, return P&P will be £6.80 plus VAT insured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P8wle Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Hi I'm new on here, I am going through hell trying to remove the pulley! I have broke 3 pullers now with no luck in pulling it off! Has anyone got any ideas how I could get something new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 (edited) A piece of one inch by one inch mild steel bar, drilled and tapped to take a suitable length M10 fine threaded rod in the middle, and clearance drilled either side for two M8 bolts that go through and into the pulley's two pull off (ready tapped) holes. Weld a nut on one end of the threaded rod, or lock two full nuts together and use it to pull off the pulley. The threaded rod seats inside the snout of the crank. I made a stepped collar to bear on the outside of the crank, then lost it, so just wind the rod down into the end of the crank where the damper bolt goes in nowadays as it works just as well. No sweat, no damage. The 8 mm threaded holes in old pulleys may need chasing out with an 8 mm tap. They corrode up and sometimes fill with muck. If you are just doing the one is it worth making this though? Just pay a garage to do it and let it become their problem! Edited January 14, 2016 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P8wle Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 A piece of one inch by one inch mild steel bar, drilled and tapped to take a suitable length M10 fine threaded rod in the middle, and clearance drilled either side for two M8 bolts that go through and into the pulley's two pull off (ready tapped) holes. Weld a nut on one end of the threaded rod, or lock two full nuts together and use it to pull off the pulley. No sweat, no damage. The 8 mm threaded holes in old pulleys may need chasing out with an 8 mm tap. If you are just doing the one is it worth making this though? Just pay a garage to do it and let it become their problem! Will give it ago thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.