Upgrades for maximum traction?

[Kaan W]

Im gunno start by saying I have read all the info I can take in on various pages but theres so many different opinions and variables I just thought it would be easier to make my own thread based on my needs and setup.

 

So ive been thinking for a little while now what I want more from my supra whether to go for more power or just carry on spending money that dont make any changes in performance what so ever. In the end I just thought its best to do neither and add some traction upgrades to turn a nice powered street car into a gripping monster that will give me better 0-60 times and still be reliable without the drag setup side effects.

 

I have read up on diff upgrades, better tires, control arms etc but I want to see what you guys can come up with for a perfect set up for a street car with the traction of a drag car.

 

I have so far -

 

BC race coilovers

Built auto with 3800 stall

Yokahama cheap horrible tires 12j 315/30r18 rears and 10j 265/30r18 fronts (possibly 335 on rear?)

Stock auto TT Uk spec diff

 

Dyno graph to give an idea of when boost starts etc.

 

 

I know alot will say to upgrade the diff first but if both tires are already locking up will there be a noticable difference?

 

Tires wise im looking at r888 for use in the summer.

 

Probably missed something but any ideas, suggestions and questions welcome,

 

Thanks in advance

[Pete]

Smaller wheels and more rubber (side wall)

[Kaan W]

Smaller wheels and more rubber (side wall)

 

Sorry I forgot to mention, I will be keeping the same wheels.

[Porky1978]

Gtr?

[Kaan W]

Gtr?

 

It would be nice to have my supe go like a GTR. If not then I have some saving to do...

[mellonman]

take the turbo off, if you are worrying about traction in -1 to -5 degress i will give you some information my 1.7 diesel van is strugling for traction too

[Kaan W]

take the turbo off, if you are worrying about traction in -1 to -5 degress i will give you some advice my 1.7 diesel van is strugling for traction too

 

Sorry another thing I forgot to mention, this will be for the summer time as winter is just no good for any car.

 

Also now ive had this car a while alot of my mates have bought fast cars also and I want to make sure I make dog meat out of them come next summer

 

A few include a 600bhp evo, a porche 911 turbo, a 500bhp supercharged m3 and a stock GTR

[safcdixon]

Against that list of cars you may aswell fly your white flag now especially if its standing starts

[Littler]

The answer to this is in the other thread you posted

 

http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?281409-Getting-traction-driving-me-mad!

 

But try a 35 profile sidewall with the rear tyres if keeping the same wheels as it will allow more movement on the sidewall (this will increase the rolling radius and knock the speedo out a bit though). Have a proper geo setup if you haven't done with taking the fast street setup into account, also how firm are the BC's set? The diff will make a difference I've read to many threads that say the traction increases with the TRD diff, more so on single power.

 

HTH

[DodgyRog]

I would say sell me the Coilovers cheap and let Chris Wilson do his magic

 

Give him the cash and he will find you the grip

[Kaan W]

The answer to this is in the other thread you posted

 

http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?281409-Getting-traction-driving-me-mad!

 

But try a 35 profile sidewall with the rear tyres if keeping the same wheels as it will allow more movement on the sidewall (this will increase the rolling radius and knock the speedo out a bit though). Have a proper geo setup if you haven't done with taking the fast street setup into account, also how firm are the BC's set? The diff will make a difference I've read to many threads that say the traction increases with the TRD diff, more so on single power.

 

HTH

 

Thanks for your help as always

 

I know there are answers there but in the end that thread turned out to be a over boost problem not my traction control I thought was going crazy ha.

 

My coilovers are now set to 10 out of 32 (soft to hard) but I get alot of arch rub over heavy bumps or pot holes so a higher profile will be worse unless I raise the rear. Im thinking the first thing i'll change is my tires as this will probably make more of a difference than the diff.

 

Will it be best to have the geo done after all the relevent upgrades?

 

Also can I have my suspension height adjusted to a nice level before the geo or do they play with that aswel?

 

Against that list of cars you may aswell fly your white flag now especially if its standing starts

 

Really? The GTR flies but the rest seem to be a bit forgiving. I can turn the boost up to 1.8 bar that should gain me a few more torques...

 

I would say sell me the Coilovers cheap and let Chris Wilson do his magic

 

Give him the cash and he will find you the grip

 

How about you give him the cash and i'll give the coilovers for free

Edited December 12, 2012 by Kaan W (see edit history)

[mellonman]

also depends on what you are doing with the car drag or track or street? all cases get decent rubber and give it to chris wilson and tell him what your doing with it and then he will set it up the best it can be and then you get it back and know its the best it can be with what set up you have, in sure chris might comment if you are a lucky man!

there are only a hand full of people that i would fully trust information given to me and chris is top of that list,

now the list of people that i would not take any information from is alot larger and there is a graham top of that list

[Kaan W]

also depends on what you are doing with the car drag or track or street? all cases get decent rubber and give it to chris wilson and tell him what your doing with it and then he will set it up the best it can be and then you get it back and know its the best it can be with what set up you have, in sure chris might comment if you are a lucky man!

there are only a hand full of people that i would fully trust information given to me and chris is top of that list,

now the list of people that i would not take any information from is alot larger and there is a graham top of that list

 

Just street use mate as said. I know chris knows hes stuff but hes never online when I am

 

I know theres better upgrades before the geo and stuff takes place which is what I want to get first so I dont have to have it done twice.

[Littler]

Thanks for your help as always

 

I know there are answers there but in the end that thread turned out to be a over boost problem not my traction control I thought was going crazy ha.

 

My coilovers are now set to 10 out of 32 (soft to hard) but I get alot of arch rub over heavy bumps or pot holes so a higher profile will be worse unless I raise the rear. Im thinking the first thing i'll change is my tires as this will probably make more of a difference than the diff.

 

Will it be best to have the geo done after all the relevent upgrades?

 

Also can I have my suspension height adjusted to a nice level before the geo or do they play with that aswel?

 

A proper geo place will take into account the ride height (WIM or centre of gravity to name a few) but as mentioned Chris Wilson is man you want to talk to

 

But yeah if you go ahead with any changes like tyres/height etc it will be better to the geo setup after at we just need doing again otherwise lol

[Littler]

Just street use mate as said. I know chris knows hes stuff but hes never online when I am

 

He prefers email or a phone call and is always happy to help

 

07971952084 [email protected]

[Kaan W]

A proper geo place will take into account the ride height (WIM or centre of gravity to name a few) but as mentioned Chris Wilson is man you want to talk to

 

But yeah if you go ahead with any changes like tyres/height etc it will be better to the geo setup after at we just need doing again otherwise lol

 

I might have to do something with my arches then if there rubbing

 

Yeah thats what I thought and its a long way to go twice lol.

[Abz]

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/

 

See these guys seeing as you are keeping the wheels, they can then best advise for best grip levels.

[Pixelfill]

Im gunno start by saying I have read all the info I can take in on various pages but theres so many different opinions and variables I just thought it would be easier to make my own thread based on my needs and setup.

 

So ive been thinking for a little while now what I want more from my supra whether to go for more power or just carry on spending money that dont make any changes in performance what so ever. In the end I just thought its best to do neither and add some traction upgrades to turn a nice powered street car into a gripping monster that will give me better 0-60 times and still be reliable without the drag setup side effects.

 

I have read up on diff upgrades, better tires, control arms etc but I want to see what you guys can come up with for a perfect set up for a street car with the traction of a drag car.

 

I have so far -

 

BC race coilovers

Built auto with 3800 stall

Yokahama cheap horrible tires 12j 315/30r18 rears and 10j 265/30r18 fronts (possibly 335 on rear?)

Stock auto TT Uk spec diff

 

Dyno graph to give an idea of when boost starts etc.

 

http://i1097.photobucket.com/albums/g351/kaan2lee/DynoGraph.jpg

 

I know alot will say to upgrade the diff first but if both tires are already locking up will there be a noticable difference?

 

Tires wise im looking at r888 for use in the summer.

 

Probably missed something but any ideas, suggestions and questions welcome,

 

Thanks in advance

Might I suggest this would be a good candidate for improvements?

 

If you believe your tyres are rubbish ... change them, they're your only contact with the road!

 

Mike

[Kaan W]

Might I suggest this would be a good candidate for improvements?

 

If you believe your tyres are rubbish ... change them, they're your only contact with the road!

 

Mike

 

Thanks but I have toyo r888s in mind but im after other upgrades as well as the tire for ultimate grip.

[ripped_fear]

He prefers email or a phone call and is always happy to help

 

07971952084 [email protected]

 

As above mate, Give him an email he is not a PM kind of man

 

He helped me via email very quickly on a couple of occasions.

[Chris Wilson]

You need some decent dampers, probably MUCH softer, progressive rate rear spings, and a proper LSD. Of course, you need the best tyres for the conditions the car is operated under. The camber change in squat makes very wide rear tyres a bit pointless as half the tread width on the rear tyres is unloaded in hard acceleration, unless the geo is biased totally for drag racing. Even then the MKIV rear suspension is never going to be good, a live axle with a spool type diff will be far better for drag racing.

 

So, junk the dampers, the springs, and the LSD diff section, and get some better tyres.

 

 

R888's are the arse end of DOT legal, "E" marked track day type tyres. Michelin Pilot Sport Cups and Pirelli Trofeo's are vastly better. In the dry. For good overall handling in cornering substantial geo changes from stock are needed to make such tyres work, plus they need some heat in them. All that type of tyre are terrible in heavy rain, and poor in damp conditions.

Edited December 13, 2012 by Chris Wilson (see edit history)

[dude]

Sorry another thing I forgot to mention, this will be for the summer time as winter is just no good for any car.

 

Also now ive had this car a while alot of my mates have bought fast cars also and I want to make sure I make dog meat out of them come next summer

 

A few include a 600bhp evo, a porche 911 turbo, a 500bhp supercharged m3 and a stock GTR

 

I would say you have problems then !!!!

[Chris Wilson]

I would say you have problems then !!!!

 

He can blame it on a lack of traction at the moment.... As my pal says, speed costs, how fast can you afford, or do you want to go?

[Kaan W]

You need some decent dampers, probably MUCH softer, progressive rate rear spings, and a proper LSD. Of course, you need the best tyres for the conditions the car is operated under. The camber change in squat makes very wide rear tyres a bit pointless as half the tread width on the rear tyres is unloaded in hard acceleration, unless the geo is biased totally for drag racing. Even then the MKIV rear suspension is never going to be good, a live axle with a spool type diff will be far better for drag racing.

 

So, junk the dampers, the springs, and the LSD diff section, and get some better tyres.

 

 

R888's are the arse end of DOT legal, "E" marked track day type tyres. Michelin Pilot Sport Cups and Pirelli Trofeo's are vastly better. In the dry. For good overall handling in cornering substantial geo changes from stock are needed to make such tyres work, plus they need some heat in them. All that type of tyre are terrible in heavy rain, and poor in damp conditions.

 

Thanks Chris you have been most helpfull In all fairness I never put my foot down going round corners neither do I want to so after all a drag setup might suit me better after all. I just dont want the massive drag radials.

 

Any reccomendations on the brand of diff? Springs?

 

I would say you have problems then !!!!

 

Thats 2 people that have said that, at the moment I know for a fact that im as fast as all of them unless there just lying with thier hp figures but they dont seem that fast at all from what ive seen. Once I get my traction sorted with the new mods it should be easy!

 

And if I fail then i'll be selling

 

He can blame it on a lack of traction at the moment.... As my pal says, speed costs, how fast can you afford, or do you want to go?

 

Well im not interested in top speed but I would like to be able to do 0-60 in 3.5 seconds or quicker without the use of drag wheels. Im sure I was very near that figure last summer when I first bought the car and that was only on a 265 tire with a stock box and torque converter.

 

With the new mods I should be able to launch much harder.

Edited December 13, 2012 by Kaan W (see edit history)

[Marcus GTE]

Before i had a Geo check done on mine i was only using about 2" of the inside of the rear tyres (previous owner fitted coilovers himself) So its good to see everyone saying how important the Geo setup is. No use having expensive tyres if you're not actually having them making propper contact with the ground.

Edited December 13, 2012 by Marcus GTE (see edit history)