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Finally got myself a supra :)


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few more updates today.

 

managed to get the steering wheel boss made up, i machined up a ring for location and once welded extra strength. looked really nice when it was done shame its all covered in alloy weld now. Oh well its plenty strong enough now. Trimmed down the outer plastic covers and it all fits perfectly fine.

 

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One bonus is the alloy radiator turned up today but because of a late start in the workshop today and other work commitments I didn't get as much done as i wanted so its sitting here waiting for tomorrow, we shall see if the fit is a good as they quoted, mmmm

 

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Another note is that the non cracking issue since i removed the radio is still present, did a look around and seems to be a factory immobiliser as everything lights up, dash, clocks etc just nothing on 3rd turn of the key. Not even the starter relay clicking or the solenoid trying to engage which sounds to me like some kind of electrical system stopping it. Did the usual tests to disarm like locking/unlocking the drivers door as apparently its door key related but still nothing. Spoke to jurgen who says the car doesn't have an alarm so not sure now. I'll get everything back together and go over the loom to make sure i didn't unplug something and forgot to reconnect. Probably something silly.

 

Tim

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cheers mate, i'm not one for big lairy wheels just something nice and simple. Also i plan to get the rear seats and recaros retrimmed in black leather with red stitching so goes well together.

 

Just need to figure out why the car won't crank now lol Probably something stupid but nothing is jumping out at me.

 

Tim

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Well I have fixed the starting issue, knew it would be something stupid. It appears the plug that goes into the back of the ignition barrel was unplugged and only just making contact. I haven't touched anything down there and spoke to Geo and neither had he so must have been that way from Japan, And when I was doing the little jobs I had disturbed it further meaning starter wire wasn't making a connection. Traced it back from the relay in the engine bay/through the fusebox to the barrel and discovered this. Pushed it home until it clicked and all problems went away :) JOY.

 

Negative side, The alloy radiator was total pants, Took me 5 hours of modifying to get it to work with the car and still not happy, going to complain to the seller, The basic fitment wasn't to bad, it went in OK, apart from one of the top mounting points was out about 1/2 inch which pulley the clasp over. The welded thread boss on the top for the cold airbox intake was 1" off so had to make a small extension piece so it would bolt together. The cold airbox had to be trimmed down and it interfered with the radiator. Fan shroud has to be cut down to get it to bolt up. All these things i could live with but the 2 main ones which will mean this is removed is, 1 the intercooler pipe from the throttle body now is pushed hard against the fan shroud, won't be long before that fails, Also won't allow the factory hard pipe to bolt to the chassis leg for support so just floating there. And the other one which annoyed me is I bought it polished so I wouldn't have to do it later when I start to brighten up the engine bay, but when I remove the huge supplier sticker from the top I find its made by someone else that must emboss there name into the top plate, this company has ground there name out and just put a sticker on the top to cover up the damage created by removing the name, so the top polished appearance is totally ruined.

 

the eBay company was called (Kevin) coolpartsuk which is trading under Advanced Radiators LTD

reference "PERFORMANCE RACING TOYOTA SUPRA MK4 TURBO 1993-1998 RADIATOR NEW 50mm CORE"

 

And finally get the car back on the road, took it for a run and yet another problem comes up, I'm sure this car is cursed :( . put my foot down in 3rd and 4th gear, TC light flashes a little but doesn't cut into snow mode, pulling hard 1.2bar. Go into 5th gear and flat as a fart, no boost what so ever. WOT and 0psi on the gauge. I first thought its gone into snow mode, reset it and nothing. Turned the TC off and still nothing. Figured it was just an IC pipe from where the badly fitted radiator I brought it home. Checking today all IC pipes are on hard, checked all the vacuum lines and from what i can tell all are fine. Reset the ecu still nothing. Took it for a test after it was left overnight and still nothing. Any gears floor it 0psi on the boost gauge, You also can't even hear the turbo spooling up to suggest a pipe has come off and the boost isn't reaching the Throttle body.

 

Any ideas?

 

Also this happened between gear changes, no knocks or bangs or anything like that, just when I changed gear the boost didn't return when the clutch was lifted and WOT. It feels very similar to when in SNOW mode, except you can activate snow mode in this state you can feel the power drop even more because of the TB butterfly. This is just like driving a Non Turbo, But drives and idles perfectly just no boost or the hint or sound of it trying to boost. Again no smoke or rattles/bangs to suggest a catastrophic turbo failure on #1

 

Any suggestions welcome as starting to loose the initial love a little, only driven this car 53 miles and so far its been in my workshop clogging up work 3 times to sort stupid things out. I figured the supra would be as reliable as all the other Toyota I have owned and worked on. 400bhp mr2 had done over 60k miles and never missed a beat, this done 53 miles and nothing but issues lol, hoping its just beginners teething bugs that once i get sorted will give me many hours or reliable fun motoring.

 

Tim

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OK after my little childish rant about supras and bloody boost problems haha, I found out it was something dead simple once I stopped messing around outside the house and took it into the workshop to get a proper look on the ramp.

 

Think i was finally glad to have a break from Toyotas and didn't want to visit the shop until new year, anyone once I dropped that mentality and went it to do it properly I found.

 

IC pipe pipped off where it joins the IC in the wing. This is caused because of (have a guess) that Alloy radiator not allowing the IC pipes to bolt up like they should, this means as the engine was moving around it was pulling on this joint and eventually pulled it apart.

 

Yet another reason not to use this stupid radiator on stock IC pipes.

 

Tim

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Glad your boost problem is all sorted matey. :) That radiator fiasco sounds outrageous though...

 

I really like the job you've done with the steering wheel boss, too. That's definitely the sort of thing I'd like to knock up if I had the first clue how to weld...!

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Glad your boost problem is all sorted matey. :) That radiator fiasco sounds outrageous though...

 

I really like the job you've done with the steering wheel boss, too. That's definitely the sort of thing I'd like to knock up if I had the first clue how to weld...!

 

Thankyou mate, the wheel boss came out really nice, and the little extra distance from the driver makes it a nicer driving position, well for me it does.

 

Turbo issue was dead simple, feel really stupid now not spotting it before i posted, seeing this is what i do for a living haha.

 

Tim

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  • 2 months later...

Bit of an update.

 

I had the alloy radiator fitted and it was just a total joke in the end, it fouled on the airbox which need to be modified, the fan shroud didn't fit so also had to be modified and then after all that I found because it was sitting to far towards the engine the fan now caught on the shroud making a horrible knocking noise only when at idle, made the car sound like the bearings were going in the engine. And also the front intercooler pipe couldn't be bolted up correctly against the chassis leg and was being pushed hard into the fan shroud again.

 

So thought I'd just do it properly. I removed the unit, bought a brand new OEM unit from Toyota and fitted that, I also purchased a brand new fan shroud to correct the damage that was done to fit the alloy radiator and instead of replacing the cut up airbox I decided to make my own intake pipe instead.

 

mocked up

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finished

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I also found my BOV had a crack in it and was cleaning boost so i blocked off the ports and made up this pipe for a HKS SSQV i had sitting around

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While I had the car in the workshop I thought it was time I did all the little jobs I wanted to get sorted.

 

Change the Serpentine Belt

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Change the Coilpack wiring connections, as they had become cooked and extremely brittle, there wasn't 1 that didn't disintegrate while unplugging them

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The hoses for the heatermatrix at the back of the engine bay were also weeping, I changed the connectors to jubilee clips which I thought solved the problem but when I got home still had the same tell tail wet patch on the floor, seems to be a small split or pin hole under one of the clips so I've ordered both entire hoses from Toyota that will arrive soon and I can get the supra back on the road again.

 

Had a couple of wheel studs broken so swapped them out with new nuts from toyota. Also seems to have had a wheel replaced at somepoint from the centres. same style but not sure what years these came off to have the change i have 3 of the smooth type and 1 of the ribbed type

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The Headlight were another let down for me, they had been modified by someone in Japan, they had painted the normal facelift type headlight from its normal metallic grey to simple black. also painted over the chrome rings that surround each light. And because I drive back late at night from seeing my girlfriend i have the highbeams on alot it appears to have started to melt the paint and flake off. Also because they had been opened condensation was getting inside coupled with the very faded plastic outer lens. Time for replacements I think, but at £280 each there not cheap :(

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Side by Side, new makes a huge difference

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And fitted

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I also came accross one of these, nice and rare :) I wanted one since i had the supra and use them on all my cars, i don't like using FCD's so this is the proper way to tune the car, plus its ready for any other future modifications i want to do because eventually i want to build my own small single turbo kit for 550bhp range. Probably a GTX3582r

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  • 3 months later...

little bit of an update.

 

Got a nice deal on importing a TRD Front Strut Brace and some new wheels

 

TRD Brace

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And the wheels Rota Grids in steel grey. Not 100% sure on the color yet but it was the only option in these sizes. Not sure to leave it or go with a brighter silver or white. Decisions (Also appologises for the garden i'd done half then took the pictures on a break haha) I'll get some more pictures once i get a few hours to give the soup a really good clean, polish and wax as its a bit dirty at the moment

 

Wheels

 

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there

 

Front

8x19 et38 245/35/19 eagle F1

 

Rear

9.5x19 et38 275/35/19 eagle F1

 

thinking i should have gone 30 profile on the back to keep speedo correct but thought about getting a bit of sidewall, but also find it does give it a bit of rake to the car with the higher profile on the back. Might try a set of 30 when these wear out to see if i like them.

 

At that arch gap i did have to roll the lips on the back but nothing else. If i left it at the normal kind of height they fitted perfectly. Sit a little bit into the arches so gives a fair bit of suspension travel before you touch anything.

 

Grip massively improved over the stock wheels i had on the car and the crap Japanese tires. They were so bad to a point i was considering selling the car if this was what to expect from a supra lol. But more than happy with grip now. Ride quality hasn't really changed at all, just a little more road noise and very small vibrations but this is obviously to be expected.

 

Tim

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  • 3 months later...

Finally started messing around the with the idea of building my own single turbocharger setup for this car. I really don't like the mechanical lag of the sequential setup so a nice small single is my goal from 475 to 575bhp. anything in there i'll be happy with a nice response.

 

I needed to make myself a jig so i can build all the stainless work on. I have to give a big thanks to Dude and Mellonman for helping me with finding the parts to make this possible.

 

Started off with mocking up the stock TT system on my build engine

 

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This allowed me to make 2 jigs to decide how far i wanted the Turbo downpipe to be. Either at the end of the TT system or to include the Precat as well.

 

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The manifold is the one i'll be using but its currently in its un-modified state, i plan on porting and polishing it before use, also ceramic coating, the turbocharger is a GT3582r with 0.82 T4 exhaust housing. Luckily i had one knocking about from a previous project. The turbo is total scrap but it'll do its job for mocking up.

 

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After looking at the jigs i think it'll be easier to make the turbo downpipe to include the Precat as well, just gives me so much more room to work with, also make the wastegate re-route pipe work not so cramped and allows me to have it rejoin the exhaust further downstream from the turbo which is always a bonus anyway.

 

Tim

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nice to see this coming on now mate , your totally right probably best to work the down pipe getting rid of the 1st cat as you say its tight for the wastegate .

im sure you have covered it but be careful of the space that you actaully have in the engine bay as i know oil returns are very tight and the intercooler pipe to the turbo can be a pig,

 

best of luck with it and happy i could help :)

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Thanks MK4Gaz

 

Straightsix, this is taken in kidderminster in the midlands outside my house.

 

Mellonman, just so people know what hes talking about mellonman put a nice note on the box "parts for you sexjig" which got some funny looks when i collected it from the postoffice because i missed my delivery haha. Yeah I've been taking alot of measurements etc and will be tested fitted on my own car before doing much else. The IC pipe i plan to run it down the chassis leg and drop down before the radiator, over going through the wheel arch like standard. I've got a cast 90 degree elbow to weld to the end of the compressor, then i'll make the IC pipework once its all fitted into the car, probably hard mounting it to the chassis with connection via a double or triple hump hose to account for movement.

 

Tim

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