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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

High egt's with a syvecs auto single


bigbloodyturbo

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Defi gauges are total junk and should be given the Lucas flotation test. I had a car here yesterday that showed over 10 bar oil pressure on one of those things, when I know it was far less. One of the other Defi gauges showe engine oil temp rising faster and higher than water temp from a cold start, which is ridiculous. I wouldn't trust them to tell a drunk's fortune on Blackpool Pleasure Beach, let alone give an accurate EGT readout ;) Get a proper gauge for God's sake. If you need a big spark you need a high Joules coil. High Joules coils aren't cheap I'm afraid.

 

Can you recommend a gauge, I bought the defi gauges because they were expensive and as such I assumed they were good quality? I've also had a look at my ignition map and its showing approx 26-30degrees advance in and around the cruise. I've seen other maps showing over 40 degrees in the same situation.

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In the Skyline I use a gauge you'd probably find totally unacceptable in a road car.

 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/digital-thermometers/2063738/?origin=PSF_437229|cav

 

But if you want a conventional gauge look to the aviation places. pilots don't like crap instruments.

 

http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--round--single--2-300842-23-p.asp

 

http://shop.airworlduk.com/egt-gauge--round--dual--2-300708-983-p.asp

 

With dual gauges you can cheaply monitor two ports or pre and post turbo, or two banks of a V engine. Hear that, GTR owners?

 

You MUST use an Inconel probe, the drama from a stainless tip probe melting or fracturing and going through the turbo is not something the turbo will recover from.

 

I stock Inconel probes and 1/8 manifold adaptors.

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i've already got a k-type thermocouple display, infact its from RS just like the one you linked to however i'd say its a fair few revisions older (circa 80-90's), I also have a fluke meter with the abiity to read a k-type that I guess will do the same thing. Will your inconel probes work with this sort off thing, if so can you pm a quote for one.

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Just for baseline purposes, I run 650degC EGTs with the probe in the collector of an unlagged tubular manifold, just before the T67. It never goes past 900degC even on long 1.4bar pulls. The high EGTs you're experiencing sounds to me like a dodgy gauge/sensor more than uber-retarded ignition for the reasons Chris said - you'd have no power and it'd run like a dog.

 

Also I've run a set of copper NGKs for years, I'm actually going to treat it to new ones in January :D A nice conservative tune seems to preserve everything nicely.

 

The misfire is probably coil packs, I went through several second hand ones before biting the bullet and getting new Toyota ones (owch). Never had a misfire since.

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Your cat light glowing and on constantly can mean you are not charging from alternator correctly , so you are on battery = low coil voltage and weak spark - worth a check

 

Funny you should mention that but I had to get another alternator for the car as when the guy tried to map it he said the alternator died. I got an na alternator from Keron and they fitted it before mapping. My turbo timer is saying 14.4v when running so i'm assuming it's charging and the zener is fine. I had to cut the cat temp sensor off to get it out of the exhaust so the wires where connected back together with a choc bloc (yes, i know). I wrapped this with amalgamating tape just incase moisture was causing high impedance somewhere but I've not ran it since as tbh honest I've lost the will to play with the bloody car now.

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You should most definitely NOT join the cat over temp sensor wires together. The ecu is expecting to see a thermocouple junction at the end of the leads, NOT a dead short ;) You could solder on another cat over temp sensor, or *MAYBE* the ecu will tolerate an open circuit (wires not connected to each other or anything else).

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Yes I put the standard sensor back in but with a choc bloc instead of soldered joints. When it was open circuit the master check light would come one periodically (sometimes it would be on, sometimes it wouldn't come on, depended on the weather haha). I think the best thing to do is find a good set of new coils and fit them, hopefully this will clear the miss up and the egt's are a duff sensor.

 

I checked the ignition map and it appears the ignition is identical to the base map ryan supplied me, so the mapper hasn't touched it, only the fuelling. Perhaps this was because the coils were breaking up, I dont' know.

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