Suprakeith Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 guys ive striped an engine that was drilled in place and thee was more alloy swarf in the oil pickupmesh than id like to see again Thats what iam worried about thats why was looking at other options and trying to get hints and tips as have read most of the na-t build threads. will be doing all the work myself,just trying to decide best option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 I found the easiest way was to get it on a ramp, chuck some axle stands underneath (bigguns) and lower the ramp. Large trolley jack with a length of wood on it, up to the sub frame, undo all the bolts, then lower the frame on the jack. Then the reverse to go back on. Getting it all lined up is what took the time for me, as I did it myself. I put one side in loosely, so the frame was fixed one side, but loose enough to have some play, then lined up the other side. Tighten all round, job done. Don`t forget to support the engine, either across the inner wings with a large piece of wood and a ratchet strap or an engine lift otherwise the engine will be on the floor with your subframes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 not to knocj your plans mate but ive done 6 na-ts now. ive tryed different ways of doing the return and a long one short , the only way to do it is to take the pan off and do it properly.l honestly mayte , im just saying to save you time and wasted effort. you can do it with the angle drill but you will get alloy in the pickup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Don`t forget to support the engine, either across the inner wings with a large piece of wood and a ratchet strap or an engine lift otherwise the engine will be on the floor with your subframes. Yeah that too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Welsh-Stealth- Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 As above: oil cooler needs pressure to get the oil through. Possible chance of oil filling up the return line to the turbo and doing damage to the turbo& bearings. And metal filings won't help the engine& possibly block oil feed to the tubby etc. Really should see if you can use a friends garage or something to get that engine out or subframe off? Safest bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprakeith Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 Agree they safest bet for sure but havent really got access to anywhere like that does anyone know if remove front roll bar and loosen engine mounts and lift engine up abit will i have enough access to remove oil pan? Really do want to go down na-t route and this is turbo oil return is the only thing stopping me at the minute Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Welsh-Stealth- Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Could be possible. All depends really if you'll have enough room at the front of the transmission tunnel. There's only about 2 inches at the top/back of the engine. You would more than likely have to remove the lower part of the sump from underneath first, otherwise it may catch the subframe. As well as most of the usual, rad, power steering etc. It wouldn't hurt to get underneath and have a look around see if it's do able... Just a weather worry living in sunny Britain. Thought about maybe renting a garage for a month? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Could be possible. All depends really if you'll have enough room at the front of the transmission tunnel. There's only about 2 inches at the top/back of the engine. You would more than likely have to remove the lower part of the sump from underneath first, otherwise it may catch the subframe. As well as most of the usual, rad, power steering etc. It wouldn't hurt to get underneath and have a look around see if it's do able... Just a weather worry living in sunny Britain. Thought about maybe renting a garage for a month? where have you been , need to talk bout a few things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Welsh-Stealth- Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 In the land of the farmers keeping there tractors road worthy'ish?!? Shall give you a buzz tomorrow dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_jekyll Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 kwls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buster Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 na engine £130-150 just get one tart it up put thincker headgasket in and do oil return then swap block job done thats my plan and its almost ready to drop in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 na engine £130-150 just get one tart it up put thincker headgasket in and do oil return then swap block job done thats my plan and its almost ready to drop in If there was a like button here I would click it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprakeith Posted November 26, 2012 Author Share Posted November 26, 2012 I do like that idea of buying other engine but just want to na-t mine for now so can get that done then finish the car other plans then when have money and own place again will pull engine out and rebuild bottom end with tt pistons and upgrade the fueling so can run higher boost on turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Whip up an egg white and try pouring it through an oil cooler and the problem will be obvious Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Never heard that 1 chris but i suppose that would prove the point:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Oil that's been through a bearing spinning 100,000RPM plus comes out as thick foam. That's why F1 engines have centrifuges in the oil system to get it back to a relatively air free and pump-able liquid again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suprakeith Posted November 27, 2012 Author Share Posted November 27, 2012 Well it was just an idea to save hasstle of removing oil pan but looks like that the way to go just hope that it isnt pig of job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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