Jellybean Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Hey Planning on getting the Car oil pump, water pump all done in 2013; was told by the Supra garage they will check the Bearing Shells. I reckon she will have a little over 100 K miles on her by then, is it good practice to do the Shells too; is it a big Job, is this what is considered a bottom end rebuild shells, bearings Probably will get the T belt done again too (last done at 50K miles) as it all has to come off in anyway Any other jobs worth doing, new crank pulley for instance Or am I just off my head, you are better waiting for it to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 (edited) I think your off your head regarding the oil pump and shells, mines on 136000 miles and is fine. Just get it checked pressure wise Changing the crank pulley is a wise move though Edited November 16, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Cool , thanks Dunk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richarde7927 Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 There is never any reason to open an engine up unless there is a problem. Get the oil pressure checked or fit a gauge . Crank pulley i would change and get the belts changed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Check the front mail seal, if its leaking probably best if you change the pump... It is an expensive job though, actually an engine out job according to the service manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Check the front mail seal, if its leaking probably best if you change the pump... It is an expensive job though, actually an engine out job according to the service manual. Much easier as an engine out job. I did mine by removing the subframes, but then there is so much else to remove to make it possible. Rad, viscous fan etc. Definitely recommend pulling the engine for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 Much easier as an engine out job. I did mine by removing the subframes, but then there is so much else to remove to make it possible. Rad, viscous fan etc. Definitely recommend pulling the engine for it. I know, mine was done by dropping the subframe, labour bill was through the roof... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 You wouldn't change the pump just because the seal is leaking. Usually you would fit a new seal correctly first and most of the time that will cure the leak. A failing oil pump will give you other signs before the seal starts to leak. As others have said if its not broke leave it alone, get the pressure tested to see if its ok but the oil pressure light will tell if there us a problem. If its taking ages to go out when you start the car then its signs of a worn pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted November 17, 2012 Author Share Posted November 17, 2012 Cool thanks lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 You wouldn't change the pump just because the seal is leaking. Usually you would fit a new seal correctly first and most of the time that will cure the leak. A failing oil pump will give you other signs before the seal starts to leak. As others have said if its not broke leave it alone, get the pressure tested to see if its ok but the oil pressure light will tell if there us a problem. If its taking ages to go out when you start the car then its signs of a worn pump. I beg to differ on that one, my pump and another two that i know of, had no signs of failing, IE low oil pressure on start up, or low oil pressure period, mine was maintaining perfect oil pressure right up until the seal started leaking, the seal was then replaced correctly, and 20 mls later it failed again, on dismantling the pump had considerable scoring and obviously this allows oil past the vanes to overwhelm the seal as the internal drain cannot cope. There is a thread around started by CW on this and i think there are pics of the damage to my pump and others, he also holds the same opinion, i woualwaysays change the pump on any 2JZ without known history, as often the result of failed seal is complete loss of oil in seconds, and the resulting engine damage is well worth the the extra hassle and expense incurred by changing the pump and seal, not to mention the peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I'm having low oil pressure at idle when hot but no oil leak and light goes straight out. I'm going to do a pressure test with a mechanical gauge as I'm hoping my gauge in the car is faulty, Pressure is good at higher rpm so I think I'm being optimistic Is there an uprated reliable pump available ? If I did not have a gauge in the car I would not be any wiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) Sound performance do a modified oem pump with the pump stripped, apparently what they modify reduces pressure at the front crank seal. Put one in mine when I went single and increased oil pressure by 1 bar at idle when warmed up! Maybe due to a warn pump? http://www.spracingonline.com/store/SP_Modified_Toyota_Oil_Pump_93-98_Supra/3622 Edited November 17, 2012 by Bailey. Added link (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) I'm having low oil pressure at idle when hot but no oil leak and light goes straight out. I'm going to do a pressure test with a mechanical gauge as I'm hoping my gauge in the car is faulty, Pressure is good at higher rpm so I think I'm being optimistic Is there an uprated reliable pump available ? If I did not have a gauge in the car I would not be any wiser What do you call low oil pressure? just for example some supras seem to run low oil pressure at idle with a perfectly healthy pump, my worn pump was running 29-30PSI hot idle, yet the brand new MVP pump ran only 23PSI. Sound performance do a modified oem pump with the pump stripped, apparently what they modify reduces pressure at the front crank seal. Put one in mine when I went single and increased oil pressure by 1 bar at idle when warmed up! Maybe due to a warn pump? All they do with the modified pumps is to enlarge the oil drain aperture that before the seal, the one i bought would not actually move under considerable hand pressure, so i striped it and re-meshed the vanes, and while i had it apart i checked to see if there was anything that indicated any kind of modification to the vanes etc, and there wasn't, there is no way you can increase the output of the pump unless you actually make it physically bigger, you can increase the spring tension on the pressure relief valve, but all that will do is to increase high RPM pressure, which is not necessary. Oh! and in the case of the three screws to secure the seal from moving, this will not prevent the seal from turning inside out and loosing its spring if enough pressure is applied, and believe me there can be considerable pressure. Edited November 17, 2012 by Tricky-Ricky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 What do you call low oil pressure? just for example some supras seem to run low oil pressure at idle with a perfectly healthy pump, my worn pump was running 29-30PSI hot idle, yet the brand new MVP pump ran only 23PSI. All they do with the modified pumps is to enlarge the oil drain aperture that before the seal, the one i bought would not actually move under considerable hand pressure, so i striped it and re-meshed the vanes, and while i had it apart i checked to see if there was anything that indicated any kind of modification to the vanes etc, and there wasn't, there is no way you can increase the output of the pump unless you actually make it physically bigger, you can increase the spring tension on the pressure relief valve, but all that will do is to increase high RPM pressure, which is not necessary. Oh! and in the case of the three screws to secure the seal from moving, this will not prevent the seal from turning inside out and loosing its spring if enough pressure is applied, and believe me there can be considerable pressure. I had mine apart and there was a lot of dremmel work In there not just a little. I will have a hunt later, not sure if I had any pics or not. And to be totally honest the reason I bought the pump was was it was cheaper than I could buy it in the uk when I had it with a lot of other parts from sp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 In the Lubrication section of the repair manuals it states at warm idle 7 psi + and at 3000 rpm 47 psi + Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bailey. Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 (edited) In the Lubrication section of the repair manuals it states at warm idle 7 psi + and at 3000 rpm 47 psi + Always had just under 2 bar at warm idle and on the new pump 2.3 bar and 7 bar when cold. Edited November 17, 2012 by Bailey. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 I've done a search and looks like most people i can find have 20 psi or more at warm idle. I have never checked mine but will do it next chance i get, the engine oil light on the dash has always gone out very quickly and i don't have any knocking noises so i guess it must be okay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted November 17, 2012 Share Posted November 17, 2012 What do you call low oil pressure? just for example some supras seem to run low oil pressure at idle with a perfectly healthy pump, my worn pump was running 29-30PSI hot idle, yet the brand new MVP pump ran only 23PSI. All they do with the modified pumps is to enlarge the oil drain aperture that before the seal, the one i bought would not actually move under considerable hand pressure, so i striped it and re-meshed the vanes, and while i had it apart i checked to see if there was anything that indicated any kind of modification to the vanes etc, and there wasn't, there is no way you can increase the output of the pump unless you actually make it physically bigger, you can increase the spring tension on the pressure relief valve, but all that will do is to increase high RPM pressure, which is not necessary. Oh! and in the case of the three screws to secure the seal from moving, this will not prevent the seal from turning inside out and loosing its spring if enough pressure is applied, and believe me there can be considerable pressure. Thanks rick It's barely showing on the gauge at idle Ill check those figures when I do the pressure check Ill also check what oil I have in it at the moment as that may make a difference but how much I'm not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 My oil pressure all good It's either my prosport gauge or the sender Think may treat myself to some decent ones now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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