Rob_Mitchell Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Because the sub-tps and motor actuator for the traction control has been removed. Thank you kind sir!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Just been over the car again but lights are still on. Although when releasing the handbrake the lights dim slightly, only very slight noticable in the dark. My brake fluid level is touching the bottom of the max line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 Is there some sort of test that will tell me if anythings wrong with the car or engine as I dont wanna drive incase something does go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob_Mitchell Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 The syvecs wont let you drive it properly if something is wrong! it will be in limp mode mate. Go for a burn tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted November 11, 2012 Author Share Posted November 11, 2012 The syvecs wont let you drive it properly if something is wrong! it will be in limp mode mate. Go for a burn tonight Need to remount the intercooler for my bumper to fit properly. And no bumper is no number plate and no indicator lenses = Otherwise I would Definately one of my jobs tomorrow to remake the brackets and fit the bumper and go for what I would call my first drive in the supra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Still have these 2 lights on and am running out of ideas. I have checked the brake fluid level and topped up to the top of the max line, handbrake is fully off, nothing flashes or goes off when overdrive is pressed or depressed. Anything else I should check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skippyboyo1 Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Doors closed? You never no! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Doors closed? You never no! Yep all closed. Is there no way of testing it for fault codes some how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boyz Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 It might be brake caliper sensor as mine is doing that aswell.It was working fine before I got the caliper changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 There is no brake caliper sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boyz Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 I know lol it was a figure of speech just that when I had my brake caliper changed the warning light comes on now and then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest boyz Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 I've solved my warning lights It was my caliper and all I did was top my brake fluid fully and it's working fine now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 I've solved my warning lights It was my caliper and all I did was top my brake fluid fully and it's working fine now Yeah thats probably the most common problem of warning lights. I topped mine up to the top of the MAX line and there still on. Also handbrake switch is functioning properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littler Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) Have you taken out the active spoiler ecu yet? Edited December 21, 2012 by Littler (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 Have you taken out the active spoiler ecu yet? Not yet matey. I was just trying to work out why none of the lights were on when I bought the car. Could it be that the spoiler switch was un plugged and now ive plugged it back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Not yet matey. I was just trying to work out why none of the lights were on when I bought the car. Could it be that the spoiler switch was un plugged and now ive plugged it back in? Possibly. I'd go for that mate. Either that, or just glue some pasta over the warning light to make a pretty backlit bit of art. May I recommend the wheel shaped pasta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 (edited) Possibly. I'd go for that mate. Either that, or just glue some pasta over the warning light to make a pretty backlit bit of art. May I recommend the wheel shaped pasta Yeah I was looking into getting it covered in pasta but I use my car as a daily and didnt fancy towing it around to get the pasta installed. I could do it myself but if it goes wrong the cars finished mate. Edited December 21, 2012 by Kaan W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted December 21, 2012 Author Share Posted December 21, 2012 Lol, were idiots... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Yeah well, someone's gotta be lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 Ok so after alot of hassle trying to figure out what the problem was, I just switched the led rear lights back to my oem ones and like magic all my warning lights have gone out! I had another yellow light on the dash next to the battery light which shows the car headlights which I thought was normal to say the lights are on, but this has gone out too. So any idea why the led lights are causing the warning lights to come on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 I'd ask heckler mate. I'm sure I've read at some point on here people having dramas with led lights and warning lights, and Si had the answer........just can't remember where I saw it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjgreen3 Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Something to do with a ballast resistor needed across positive and negative at the LED light cluster, to fool the warning light system that you don't have a bulb out. LED's simply don't draw enough current compared to stock lights and therefore the system thinks you have blown a bulb and registers it as a fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted February 15, 2013 Author Share Posted February 15, 2013 I'd ask heckler mate. I'm sure I've read at some point on here people having dramas with led lights and warning lights, and Si had the answer........just can't remember where I saw it Ok I will thanks mate. Something to do with a ballast resistor needed across positive and negative at the LED light cluster, to fool the warning light system that you don't have a bulb out. LED's simply don't draw enough current compared to stock lights and therefore the system thinks you have blown a bulb and registers it as a fault. So this is needed in the actuall light itself? Si (Heckler) told me the leds draw a massive current from the battery which is why another problem I have is half the leds do not light when the engine is not running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heckler Posted February 15, 2013 Share Posted February 15, 2013 Right, The LED lights should not cause this, in all the sets I've made since 2006 for the UK, USA and Australia - including the 4 sets I've had on my own car, I've never seen or heard of this and ref the current draw - its not current it the voltage - the LED lights are designed to run at 12.6 volts plus. A 12v battery on its own is never 12v, more like 11.5v ish. LED's are very fussy over supply voltage. No Ballast resistor is required across the brake lights for the Bulb Failure system - I've always removed the Bulb Fail ECU in the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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