Westy Posted April 12, 2013 Share Posted April 12, 2013 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 12, 2013 Author Share Posted April 12, 2013 Cheers, not a patch on either of yours but I'm hoping it will do me proud at some shows this year once I've tinkered some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 16, 2013 Author Share Posted April 16, 2013 Well, the car is off the road now and I've started stripping it ready for the NA-T build. Will be pulling the engine out to drill the oil pan and clean the bay and block up Pictures to follow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 Love this pic. A very nice looking car indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Spent a couple of hours over the last few nights stripping the car ready to pull the engine out. All the engine loom is disconnected/unplugged from the chassis side and unplugged from the ECU and pulled through to the engine bay. The exhaust manifold is off (resting in place in the pictures), heat shield off, battery out, breather pipes disconnected, O2 sensors out, cat temp sensor removed, lights removed etc. Just the wet stuff left now i.e removed radiator and drain coolant, disconnect fuel supply, power steering, aircon and so on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Its getting there! I like the way you've labled all the wires, Nice touch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 18, 2013 Author Share Posted April 18, 2013 Its getting there! I like the way you've labled all the wires, Nice touch! Should make it approx 100000 x easier to put back together haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkpower Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Look forward to seeing this build come together. Really nice looking supra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 Lovely day today Naturally carried on with dismantling, labelling and draining the Supra! Lots of progress, front bumper off, splash guards off, heater pipes disconnected, fuel return disconnected, power steering pipes disconnected and drained of fluid, radiator removed, fan shroud removed etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted April 20, 2013 Share Posted April 20, 2013 good work rich should be good to watch you do this whos tuning it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 20, 2013 Author Share Posted April 20, 2013 good work rich should be good to watch you do this whos tuning it ? Cheers mate, I have someone in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 23, 2013 Author Share Posted April 23, 2013 (edited) Only had 30 mins on it tonight, but managed to disconnect the fuel feed from the filter and also from the fuel pump. Got the slave cylinder unbolted from the side of the box as well, just got to un-attach the metal section of the clutch hose from the clip that is attached via a bell housing bolt. Only a few bits left now and the engine will be ready to pull out I've also secured myself a GReddy Emanage with MAP sensor etc. Edited April 27, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Could you take a couple pics of how you fitted your lip please. Had mine tacked on and it got ripped off today! Was planning on a way to fit it but after looking today its not going to work. :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Could you take a couple pics of how you fitted your lip please. Had mine tacked on and it got ripped off today! Was planning on a way to fit it but after looking today its not going to work. :/ Shall try and get a few pictures tomorrow for you whilst the bumper is off the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 To match my new led side light bulbs, I've fitted some new led lights for the rear number plate and interior map lights. They're a big improvement http://i50.tinypic.com/wikphz.jpg http://i45.tinypic.com/2cy1cb9.jpg rich what is the part number or type for the interior bulb? ta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 rich what is the part number or type for the interior bulb? ta These were the exact ones I purchased:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290679263260 Would highly recommend them for the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra_ufo Posted April 24, 2013 Share Posted April 24, 2013 These were the exact ones I purchased:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290679263260 Would highly recommend them for the price. Thanks, and purchased ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 24, 2013 Author Share Posted April 24, 2013 Thanks, and purchased ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 thanks for that, i bought some from bright light leds from facebook and they were shite they glow up and give off no real light lol the led on the tv standby button is brighter lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 25, 2013 Author Share Posted April 25, 2013 thanks for that, i bought some from bright light leds from facebook and they were shite they glow up and give off no real light lol the led on the tv standby button is brighter lol No worries mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 Any luck on the photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 (edited) Any luck on the photos Excuse the dirt but hope this helps: Basically, drill holes through the top of the active lip and then nut, bolt and washer it to the back of the stock rubber lower lip. The end pieces won't bolt straight up as there will be a large gap so make some C shaped brackets to act as a spacer, bolt the lip to one end of the bracket and secure the other end of the bracket to one of under tray bolts. Make sure you use nyloc nuts other it will work loose. If your half local and want to pop up to see how I've done mine that's fine. Edited April 27, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 (edited) All remaining fluids drained today - engine oil, gearbox oil and remainder of coolant in the block via the drain plug in the block. You can see it in the picture below: Master cylinder disconnected as well. Only really engine mount bolts, prop shaft and gear selector to disconnect and I'm ready to pull the engine out & box out. I might go and do that in a minute if it stops raining then pick the engine crane up Edited April 27, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 (edited) Whilst dodging the hail I've just removed the gear selector so there's one more little job off the list. Thought I'd do a quick write up as it may help people in the future. It will start looking like this : Now unscrew (anti clockwise) the gear knob, flip the lid up on the ash tray, pull the ash tray out and then the whole panel just pulls out. Be gentle whilst pulling it out so as not to break any of the clips, I tend to start at the back. It will leave you looking at this: Undo the four 10mm gold headed bolts that you can see and put them somewhere safe (ash tray you just removed is a good place) and then you can simply pull the metal surround off, followed by the two rubber seals: You will be left with this: If you prise the remaining rubber seal up you can see there is four more 10mm bolts to undo, so once again undo these and put them somewhere safe: Once these are undone it's time to get under the car. Get the car up on axle stands and make sure it is secure before putting yourself underneath. If you lay on your back you will soon see where the selector comes through the body and to the gearbox. There is a rubber cover you need to prise back and it will unveil two 12mm bolts, you only need to undo the one nearest the rear of the car and slide the bolt out. Hopefully this picture will help: Now you can jump back in the car and the shifter will pull straight up and out Although I completely forgot to take a picture of the removed shifter. Edited April 27, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Few more parts for the NA-T build are here after a delivery from Whifbitz and one from Kaan. - Modified TT oil return with one side welded so only one entry - TT oil return gasket, Toyota part no. 15472-46010 - Lexus union bolt, Toyota part no. 90401-19008 - Lexus union bolt metal gasket, Toyota part no. 90430-20016 - Toyota 4 Runner distributor cap, Toyota part no. 19101-65040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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