Rich's NA-T

[chris0132]

Haha the mrs looks very happy in the second picture

[Rich.2211]

Haha the mrs looks very happy in the second picture

 

I had the house keys and wouldn't let her in until I had finished taking pics

[Rich.2211]

I have now clocked up a good few hundred miles in the Supra and have decided to give her a first oil change. It's probably completely unnecessary but I feel like I should seen as it's been apart and put back together again. Also, it's pre-empting a trip to Santapod and a boost increase Will do oil changes every 3-5K from now on. I must say Opie Oils service has been fantastic once again, another 7 litres of 10W50 Fuchs Titan Race Pro S delivered to my door.

 

[rob_sri]

Awesome work mate.. I need to change my fluids soon tbf box and diff definitely overdue doing!

 

Get some more videos mate!

 

Glad to hear it's running well..! What you going to up the pressure/power to?

[Rich.2211]

Awesome work mate.. I need to change my fluids soon tbf box and diff definitely overdue doing!

 

Get some more videos mate!

 

Glad to hear it's running well..! What you going to up the pressure/power to?

 

 

Hi Rob, I would recommend Opie Oils for your fluids as they have been spot on for me and also the cheapest with the offers they have on. I'm hoping to go for 1 bar + as everything is in place for it so can't see any reason why not. Only weak point is the box but that's an upgrade for next year I think. So far the box is perfect though.

 

You need to get yourself to the next local meet so I can take you for a go in it!

[Rich.2211]

Having been asked for a spec list by a few members via pm I thought it a good idea to write it all up in my thread

 

Engine:

 

2JZGE 2997cc

XS Power T61 Turbo

XS Power tubular manifold wrapped in Thermotec heat wrap

3” Downpipe wrapped in Thermotec heat wrap

3” Decat pipe wrapped in Thermotec heat wrap and straight through TRD style exhaust system

1.3mm 2JZGTE head gasket

Head stripped and reassembled with new stem seals and lapped valves

ARP head studs

650CC Siemens DEKA injectors with custom pigtails and shimmed fuel rail

4” Intake pipework

4” K&N air filter

3” Core Toyosports intercooler

2.5” & 3” Custom intercooler pipework

38mm Tial style wastegate with 7.5psi spring

Toyota 4 Runner distributor cap with additional no.2 HT lead

Open screamer pipe wrapped in Thermotec heat wrap

AN10 Braided oil return with billet AN10 flange

Braided oil feed hose with 3mm oil restrictor

Blue anodized oil filter sandwich plate with 1/8th NPT threads

Modified oil pan with billet AN10 flange fitted for oil return

Air condition delete

Power steering “up” system delete

ACIS (acoustically controller induction system) and butterfly removed

Shortened auxiliary belt

T4 turbo blanket

Custom painted red engine block

Custom painted silver engine covers, engine mounts, ancillaries and inlet manifold

Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10W50 engine oil

Toyota red coolant

Walbro 255 fuel pump with fuel resistant heat shrink on all soldered connections

Fuel pump ECU bypass for consistent 12V oppose to stock 9/12V switching

Fuel damper delete with braided hose and AN fittings

Single O2 sensor conversion

Emanage Ultimate piggy back ECU mapped on Shell V Power

112MPH Speed cut removed

3 BAR MAP sensor

 

Drivetrain:

 

W58 five speed manual transmission

Competition Clutch Stage 5

AO1B Torsen LSD

Motul Gear 300 75W90gear box oil

Motul shockproof 90W differential oil

 

Wheels/Tyres/Brakes:

 

Rota Boost 18”alloys in white (F) 9J ET30 ® 10J ET35

Toyo R888 tyres (F) 255/35/18 ® 285/30/18

Red tuner style internal drive wheel nuts

M Tech drilled and grooved discs

Mintex brake pads

JDM spec brake callipers

 

Body:

 

A202 Black

Retro fitted active front splitter lip

UK spec headlights refurbed with black inserts

Clear side repeaters

Tinted front indicators

LED sidelight & number plate light bulbs

Rear arches shaved

Likwidart rear ‘Supra’ badge in black

40mm Lowering springs

Bilstein yellow dampers

 

Interior:

OMP Corsica steering wheel ltd. edition leather with red stitching

HKB boss kit

Custom painted anthracite dash panels

MPH speedo clock

Leather gear stick gaiter

Dyed black carpets

Leather headlining & sun visors

LED map lights

Custom painted stereo facia

Anthracite seat bolt covers

TIMs 2 BAR boost gauge

[Rich.2211]

Just realised I've had the car a year now. It's changed a lot since I first drove her home

[Guest aspire]

whats the fuel ECU bypass rich? or how to do this?

[Rich.2211]

whats the fuel ECU bypass rich? or how to do this?

 

Just a fancy way of writing the 12v fuel pump mod mate. Noz has explained it well in the post below.

Edited October 14, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history)

[Noz]

whats the fuel ECU bypass rich? or how to do this?

 

its to do with the voltage of the fuel pump. the fuel pump ecu only supplies the pump with 9v unless it requires more, as the throttle position changes the voltage is then increase to the fuel pump to 12v.

 

removing the ecu, and using a simple relay as an arming trigger for the fuel pump is fine and removes any fluctuations a failing pump ecu can cause. obviously having 9v when requiring some juice can cause all sorts of weird things.

 

hope that helps

[wewsupra]

Having been asked for a spec list by a few members via pm I thought it a good idea to write it all up in my thread

 

Drivetrain:

 

W58 five speed manual transmission

Competition Clutch Stage 5

AO1B Torsen LSD

 

 

 

where did you get clutch from mate as im looking for a good one

also with the AO1B Torsen LSD was that on the car already

if not and you added it do you need the drive shafts ? (any one answer that )

as ive got a a01a normal and would like to put a ao1b on

 

edit

i been looking at paul whiffin stage 3 clutch (paul said to get a stage 3+)

as im vvti on 5 speed so need a clutch that can handle it

Edited October 14, 2013 by wewsupra (see edit history)

[Noz]

where did you get clutch from mate as im looking for a good one

also with the AO1B Torsen LSD was that on the car already

if not and you added it do you need the drive shafts ? (any one answer that )

as ive got a a01a normal and would like to put a ao1b on

 

can use a01a drive shafts dont need anything for that dude. i swapped out to an LSD after i blew the open diff

[Guest aspire]

its to do with the voltage of the fuel pump. the fuel pump ecu only supplies the pump with 9v unless it requires more, as the throttle position changes the voltage is then increase to the fuel pump to 12v.

 

removing the ecu, and using a simple relay as an arming trigger for the fuel pump is fine and removes any fluctuations a failing pump ecu can cause. obviously having 9v when requiring some juice can cause all sorts of weird things.

 

hope that helps

hi jay, i have used the fuel dampner bypass also, so would this be worth while for me?

[wewsupra]

can use a01a drive shafts dont need anything for that dude. i swapped out to an LSD after i blew the open diff

many thanks then so i need to find alsd

[Noz]

hi jay, i have used the fuel dampner bypass also, so would this be worth while for me?

 

I believe the fuel pump ecu mod is purely to remove the chance of it causing a problem. There is no direct benefit from it, aside from removing the chance of future problems.

 

If you have all the boot panels out anyway, I'd look into doing it to reduce any problems during further upgrades. It's a good thing to do when upgrading a fuel pump.

 

No more non-build posting now guys, we are spamming on Rich's sexy NA-t thread

[Rich.2211]

where did you get clutch from mate as im looking for a good one

also with the AO1B Torsen LSD was that on the car already

if not and you added it do you need the drive shafts ? (any one answer that )

as ive got a a01a normal and would like to put a ao1b on

 

edit

i been looking at paul whiffin stage 3 clutch (paul said to get a stage 3+)

as im vvti on 5 speed so need a clutch that can handle it

 

 

Clutch was from a company called BCD-Racing on eBay. Great service from them but the clutch is seriously vicious. It can be a pain to be honest although admittedly I have only put 600 miles on it. If I was to buy another I would go for the Spec Stage 3+ as Paul has recommended.

 

My A01B was factory fitted mate so can't be of much help there sorry.

[Rich.2211]

 

No more non-build posting now guys, we are spamming on Rich's sexy NA-t thread

 

Much love

[Noz]

Clutch was from a company called BCD-Racing on eBay. Great service from them but the clutch is seriously vicious. It can be a pain to be honest although admittedly I have only put 600 miles on it. If I was to buy another I would go for the Spec Stage 3+ as Paul has recommended.

 

My A01B was factory fitted mate so can't be of much help there sorry.

 

I've a stage4. It's a crapper when pulling from stand still, but most the time they are fine.

 

I've gotten used to mind easy enough, can't recommend them enough. Though my mate with his 350z stalled mine 5 times lol hahaha unlucky.

 

Why is your vicious dude

[Rich.2211]

I've a stage4. It's a crapper when pulling from stand still, but most the time they are fine.

 

I've gotten used to mind easy enough, can't recommend them enough. Though my mate with his 350z stalled mine 5 times lol hahaha unlucky.

 

Why is your vicious dude

 

Mine is the stage 5 version (4 paddle). The pedal isn't much, if any, heavier than stock and it's not noisy like the multiplates can be when idling but it's just really aggressive. You have to give it some revs to pull off and there really is an art to pulling off in a dignified fashion. I have only stalled it a couple of times but unless you get the revs just right it judders really badly (at first it was smacking the exhaust of the rear subframe it was juddering that bad - and no, it's not my driving ) Reversing is a mare too unless you like to reverse at speed.

 

Oh, it has just developed a squeak as well when you pull off but I've read this is normal for this type of clutch? Maybe when it gets a few K on it I'll be more use to it and it will have bedded in further.

[berg]

I managed to sort the squeek on mine

It was the hanger for the back box catching on a part of the rear subframe

Worth a look as you have the same exhaust as i do although im missing the bracket which bolts the exhaust to the gearbox so theres a fair amount of movement in the exhaust so thats the next part to buy for mine!

[Rich.2211]

I managed to sort the squeek on mine

It was the hanger for the back box catching on a part of the rear subframe

Worth a look as you have the same exhaust as i do although im missing the bracket which bolts the exhaust to the gearbox so theres a fair amount of movement in the exhaust so thats the next part to buy for mine!

 

I am missing the exact same bracket! I will have to have a look tomorrow on the ramp at work and check. I'm going to have a flexi fitted in the downpipe I think and have it modified a little to improve fitment which in turn will sit the rest of the exhaust system a bit lower again. Also should safe guard me from any cracks in the manifold touch wood.

[buster]

hi rich im almost at the mapping stage and have almost the same setup as you but 550cc injectors and r154 gearbox

what power (torque and bhp) are you getting

[Rich.2211]

hi rich im almost at the mapping stage and have almost the same setup as you but 550cc injectors and r154 gearbox

what power (torque and bhp) are you getting

 

No idea mate as it hasn't been on the dyno. It was mapped on the road but I will put it on the dyno in the near future.

[Crash Bandicoot]

Just read this write up over the past couple days and hat off to you chap! I bought an na-t a couple weeks ago and crashed it 3 days later. I'm currently looking for a doner car to swap the engine and train over to (hopefully a black aerotop) the guy I bought it off seems to have put as much effort into the engine as you minus painting it. I'm running 500 bhp as when I bought it, it had 3 maps on different psi measurements. May be asking you some questions on my rebuild but you have not only lit the fire under my ass with getting it done asap but put the ambition in my sweed to pay ALOT of attention to detail! Top man!

 

If you could let me know how you get on with stopping the squeak when pulling away because I have the same noise and I know what you mean, you have to master the art of pulling away without everyone looking at you as if you'd let off a bomb!

Edited October 15, 2013 by Crash Bandicoot (see edit history)

[Rich.2211]

Just read this write up over the past couple days and hat off to you chap! I bought an na-t a couple weeks ago and crashed it 3 days later. I'm currently looking for a doner car to swap the engine and train over to (hopefully a black aerotop) the guy I bought it off seems to have put as much effort into the engine as you minus painting it. I'm running 500 bhp as when I bought it, it had 3 maps on different psi measurements. May be asking you some questions on my rebuild but you have not only lit the fire under my ass with getting it done asap but put the ambition in my sweed to pay ALOT of attention to detail! Top man!

 

If you could let me know how you get on with stopping the squeak when pulling away because I have the same noise and I know what you mean, you have to master the art of pulling away without everyone looking at you as if you'd let off a bomb!

 

Thank you for the comments

 

I'll take a real good look to see if there's anything obvious regards the squeak and report back. I'm sorry to hear we're experiencing the same clutch woes but in a sad way I'm glad it's not just me so I know it's not my driving

 

I'll PM you back now.