Rich.2211 Posted April 27, 2013 Author Share Posted April 27, 2013 Last few bits undone earlier and now she's ready to have her heart pulled out! Engine mount nuts are undone, gearbox mount undone, gearbox mount removed from the gearbox and finally the prop shaft removed Just awaiting the engine crane from work, and maybe tie the wiring/hoses up out the way and the engine will be out ready to clean up and drill/tap the oil pan for the oil return. May do a test fit tomorrow of the turbo/manifold/wastegate/screamer tomorrow just to check clearance is okay on the o/s chassis leg etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 Looking good rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) Well today started as the menial task of pulling the engine and gearbox out the car. Read a guide on here saying you need four people, and I must say it would of been easier with four but with some perseverance me and my 86 year old Grandfather we managed to pull it out - along with a final hand from Josh on here Aforementioned Grandfather in action: Then here's a few more as it came out: Gearbox separated from the engine: Then the clutch was removed (which is in amazing condition, shame to uprate it!) followed by the flywheel. Next step... engine mounted on the engine stand: Next step is to strip the engine, how far I have not decided yet Edited May 4, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 86 and pulling engines! Legend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Josh42 Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 86 and pulling engines! Legend! At 84 the same guy lifted an E36 off my crushed foot! He's a living legend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Share Posted May 4, 2013 86 and pulling engines! Legend! He loves it! Couldn't wait to get stuck in so I thought why not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 5, 2013 Author Share Posted May 5, 2013 Spent an hour or so this evening starting to strip the engine down. I've removed the starter motor, alternator, o/s engine mount, distributor heat shield, distributor cap, plug leads, coolant pipe that runs behind exhaust manifold and the inlet manifold as far down as the intake runners. Can't get over how many breather hoses there are, hoping (praying) that I remember where they all go when it goes back together. Going to spend tomorrow stripping the rest of the engine down I think.. not sure how far I'll go yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Continuing on from yesterdays efforts I had a crack this morning at stripping/labelling the rest of the block ready to get it painted. It's not finished yet but here's where I am so far. Engine wiring loom removed and labelled up: Sump removed along with the strainer etc.: Here's how it stands now: Next things are to remove the oil pan for drilling, remove the crank pulley, remove the lower timing cover, remove the waterpump and so on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil Posted May 6, 2013 Share Posted May 6, 2013 Good rich dis engine come out ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Share Posted May 6, 2013 Good rich dis engine come out ok Came out relatively easily mate thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 With the oil pan removed, a large bar and a chock of wood it came off Oil pan removed along with level sensor?: Crank pulley and timing cover off!: Now to replace the cam belt, tensioner and probably the water pump as well. Then painting time and rebuild it + a turbo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 (edited) Spent yesterday evening/this morning taking the head off. I've decided to take the bull by the horns and drop the compression via the use of a TT head gasket. Also read stories about the carbon build up on top of the pistons causing issues with DET? So decided it would be a good excuse to give it all a clean - maybe even port the head. Another reason for removing the head is the discovery that three valve stem seals were leaking slightly so it's a good a time as any to replace them. First things first were to remove the cam belt, idler pulley, tensioner, water pump along with housing, cam pulleys and then the cover behind the cam pulleys. Next step being to measure the valve shim clearances before removing the cams. All the shim clearances on the inlet side were between 0.15 and 0.19mm (should measure between 0.15-0.25mm). All the shim clearances on the exhaust side were 0.25mm (should be between 0.25 and 0.35mm). Along with a visual inspection for scoring, wearing of the cam lobes or wear on the top of the shims I deemed everything to be okay Following this it was time to remove the cams! I started by removing the no.1 bearing caps (being careful to undo the caps evenly) and the front oil seals. After these are removed I undid the remaining bearing caps over three passes of 2-6-4-5-7-3. These bolts/bearing caps all have to be kept in order so they go back exactly as they were removed. Once the cams are out I had full access to the 10mm allen key headed bolts that bolt the head to the block. No pictures here but you could see them once I looked inbetween each set of valve shims. The head is actually machined to allow you to get access to these bolts. The head bolts were rather tight! I undid them over four passes in a 'X' pattern starting outside and working in - this is to prevent the head warping. Once these were completely undone I removed the head and gasket to be greated by a filthy looking cylinder block as expected. Excuse the poor picture but it was dark and I was hungry. Cue today where I started project 'clean all the baked on carbon and spend 5 hours doing a 30 minute planned job'. First things first in the light were to get rid of all the old head gasket material from the head. The NA head gasket has almost a rubber type coating which I imagine helps it seal to the head but in turn makes it messy when you remove the gasket. A nice flat blade and plenty of patience cured this, followed up by a very light skim over the block with 320 grit wet and dry combined with a large flat block to ensure a clean mating surface for the new TT head gasket. Then the task of cleaning the piston tops to get rid of burnt on carbon. This was well baked on and I didn't fancy using a wire wheel as some people do for risk of removing significant amounts of piston material! So, I went for good old trusty oven cleaner, which I must say worked pretty well. This combined with scraping the carbon off seemed to yield good results. Lastly I cleaned and inspected the bores (69K and still have factory honing marks!) and dropped a tiny amount of oil into each in case I have to rotate the crank. Also a very slight finger smear of oil over the block to stop any corrosion etc. as the gasket is not going on yet and will be re cleaned before the TT gasket is fitted. Edited May 19, 2013 by Rich.2211 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FOSTA Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Fantastic work fella! Ill be keeping an eye on this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 Fantastic work fella! Ill be keeping an eye on this one I've joined the Facebook page I've painted the block today, just need to wait for it to dry fully and clean a few of the mating surfaces back up and I'll get some pics up. Can't wait to start fitting it all back together + turbo! How do I get hold of one of the NA-T stickers? I'm tempted to have one on my front engine cover and lacquer over it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Contact the main facebook group for the NA-t stickers mate. Fosta will send you one out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Nice progress dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Q Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 brill stuff rich its coming on a treat- don't mess about do ya! one thing i've thought of, if you dont replace the water pump or just replace it with a new "front half" it might be worth replacing the core plug in the back half of the housing whilst its off, because it might be corroded from the inside. great work keep it up, and of course keep us posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 brill stuff rich its coming on a treat- don't mess about do ya! one thing i've thought of, if you dont replace the water pump or just replace it with a new "front half" it might be worth replacing the core plug in the back half of the housing whilst its off, because it might be corroded from the inside. great work keep it up, and of course keep us posted I have a new water pump and housing ready to fit mate, but cheers for the heads up. I've heard the horror stories with that rear core plug on the water pump housing and seen one fail first hand (Josh42's car) so combined with mine having a slight squeak it was enough to convince me to buy a new one. Cheers for the comments How is yours going? and how's my old exhaust doing?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Q Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 that's cool mate i know next to feck all about supras but thats one thing I do know glad its all in hand. exhaust is doing great cheers fella, and yours and previous owners guess of less that 88db were spot on- i got 86 db static at my last event so its dandy and getting well used! it was also attached to the second fastest toyota on road tyres at my last event, its all I can claim so i'm hanging onto any positive I can find, proves the new chassis is working well too cheers again for the exhaust mate, i like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 This is 90% complete, just a few little areas I wasn't happy with to go over again and also re-tap the threads. For now though it gives a good idea. Flatted back the mounting surfaces for brackets/engine mounts etc. as I didn't want paint getting in the way. Also flatted back the '2JZ' logo 'GUNK' doing it's thing made for some odd pics!: With the addition of some colour!: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Q Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 good job mate looks great, even better than my coffee table thought you were giving it a shave looking at the first couple of pics. what sort of paint did you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 good job mate looks great, even better than my coffee table thought you were giving it a shave looking at the first couple of pics. what sort of paint did you use? It does look like it's having a shave! Funny stuff this GUNK is, especially the foam type one as I used. Regards paint I've just opted for good old Hammerite Smooth as it is ment to withstand the heat just fine and pretty hard wearing. Fingers crossed it stays okay but I think it will. Glad to hear your getting on well with the car, and exhaust! Time to turbo yours now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Q Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 good stuff, might try the foam- only ever used the brush on and the spunky (sorry cant think of a better word- gloopy?) pump spray type one in the past. Good old smoothrite its come out very well- damn sight cheaper than engine enamel too! ha ha cheers mate, although no turbo for me for a long long time yet! good luck for the next step of the build and keep us updated mate, enjoying this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.2211 Posted May 21, 2013 Author Share Posted May 21, 2013 good stuff, might try the foam- only ever used the brush on and the spunky (sorry cant think of a better word- gloopy?) pump spray type one in the past. Good old smoothrite its come out very well- damn sight cheaper than engine enamel too! ha ha cheers mate, although no turbo for me for a long long time yet! good luck for the next step of the build and keep us updated mate, enjoying this thread. Cheers mate, I shall do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 nice ric, did you use the spray or the paint on hammerite? i quickly flicked through before reading and i thought it had been snowing lol how well did the foam stuff work? i have a huge tub of the wet type here but the foam looks alot less messy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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