mellonman Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 For a intermitant fault like this I would be tempted to just go straight out and bypass the original wiring straight away no point testing it as it may all be good when testing, Give the plugs and pins a good wobble, test Run a wire straight to tps , check Then replace every wire to the tps, its posible this could be a earth fault, with a wire just touching down to earth every so often? Also is it always 10minutes for the fault to happen? Is it engine temp related? Ie could you let it warm up then drive it would be bad or if you drive straight away it will be okay until said warm temp? A good start would be to try and bring the fault on , or make notes of when it happens and conditions , and see if they are the same every time , wobble the ecu plugs while driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 I think that since it is an intermittent problem there is connection most of the time. It'll only take 0.5 s of short or open to set the code and if he can drive it around for 10 mins or more before the condition is met multimeters are not going to find the problem. I still think that it must be a problem with VTA and simply running a new wire will tell us if that indeed is the problem. If running a new wire solves it he can try to find the error or just be happy with the new wire. When that is said I have previously had trouble with the pins of the ECU connector comming loose and it could be a simple thing like that so: When you get the plug of the ECU remove the yellow cap and check that the pins for the TPS are all locked in their seats. Snap exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 When that is said I have previously had trouble with the pins of the ECU connector comming loose and it could be a simple thing like that so: When you get the plug of the ECU remove the yellow cap and check that the pins for the TPS are all locked in their seats. This is exactly why I'm saying to check this area as best as possible first. It's less intrusive, and if you run a wire bypass you'll still be going through the ECU plug to reach the ECU. If it still doesn't fix it the temptation is to think the ECU is now definitely getting the signal when it might not be. I personally have had this problem with the VTA input on my ECU plug, the hole the ECU pin goes in to was too baggy - tightening it up fixed the issue. Also, moving all the wires around while you're idling will show up an intermittent break more often than not. The ECU end of the loom is the most likely place for a wire break to crop up, failing that it'll be near the sensor plug end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristian_Wraae Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Yes I agree. Now lets get a beer and celebrate that we fixed it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 Wow thanks guys!! Going to be a busy weekend then! I will order the plug/pin parts tomorrow and get cracking from there. Will run a wire direct from sensor to ecu first before I go poking about with a multimeter. Once I have reset the ecu and cleared the codes its usually around the 10min mark that it plays up again. Yet it will sit and idle just fine in P or N on the drive. Bloody thing, I want to hate it but I just can't determined to fix it Oh and I have already started on the beers in anticipation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 hope this is the fault, been on this a while and i know how i would feel if it was me in this situation. good luck bud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 maybe sit on the drive with it running for over ten minutes then drive or see if it puts a code out on the drive , this would then indicate that it maybe temp related Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Yes I agree. Now lets get a beer and celebrate that we fixed it I agree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 Right so had the car on this morning before work, the battery was out being charged so any error codes are well and truly gone. Fitted the battery, started the car left in P and straight away this time the idle was all over the place, including the car stalling. Restarted it and went to take it round the block and straight away same symptoms again, gear slams, hangs at 3k rpm. Now I know it can run a bit differently when the ecu is reset as have done it a few times. checked ecu and almost straight away this time error 41. So Its not temp related as the car would still have been cold, so going to poke the electrics this weekend Its not going to beat me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 thats good then thats one thing off the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Local Toyota cant find the part number for the ECU pin, and are trying to tell me they only sell the complete connector block complete with pins. Does anyone know the part no for the pin itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Ok they found 1 pin for the TPS connector, very reasonably priced at £16.95 +VAT... But drawn a blank on the ECU pin, will stick a post in technical and see if anyone knows the part number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristian_Wraae Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 That is a ridiculous price. If you don't mind waiting I can send you a few pins (I have a hacked up patch harness for the ECU) for the ECU or if someone closer (that is within UK) has a hacked up patch harness you might be able to get some pins there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 Thanks mate, Lyndon on here has very kindly offered me some pins as he has a load spare going to test the circuit this weekend anyway so still got stuff to get on with. Toyota did offer me the complete ECU block with pins for almost £200...... Poor guy didn't know what I was asking for lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 hey mate have you managed to look at this yet? just wondering how you are getting on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 started pulling the carpet back but rain and ice stopped play. ended up stripping the FMIC off and front bumper instead. Need to look ad see what Pins I Need as Lyndon has a load spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 What pins are you after? And what are you trying to achieve, I've missed a bit I've got a wiring loom that I've been removing bits off over the years, it might still have the main ECU plugs on it if that helps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 TPS and ecu pin Ian to run a wire directly also gearing myself up to refurb all the electrical connectors, although gave them a wiggle with the car running and didnt make any difference. Ordered a new multimeter so waiting for that to arrive then I can start testing. Note to self, dont leave multimeter on drive under passenger sill then go for a test drive.... crunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 TPS and ecu pin Ian to run a wire directly also gearing myself up to refurb all the electrical connectors, although gave them a wiggle with the car running and didnt make any difference. Ordered a new multimeter so waiting for that to arrive then I can start testing. Ah right. I thought you'd just tap it into the stock wire as close as possible, at least you'd bypass 99.9% of the wiring that way if not the pins themselves, and it's free Note to self, dont leave multimeter on drive under passenger sill then go for a test drive.... crunch. I did that with the open tray of my old toolbox, backed over it and bent it all beyond repair. Supra survived without a scratch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Ah right. I thought you'd just tap it into the stock wire as close as possible, at least you'd bypass 99.9% of the wiring that way if not the pins themselves, and it's free easier to just cut both ends then and solder a wire in-between using the original pins? Electrics are not my strong point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 thats what i would have done as long as the pins are alright atleast you will know if its fixed then, and if you wanted you could always replace the whole wire with new pins afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 OK, so whats the best way to do it? cut the VTA wire at the TPS plug end and the ECU end and solder a new wire directly between the two points? Im a little hesitant about cutting into the loom thats all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I thought you were in the "testing" stage? You don't know it's the wire yet, so the quickest and least intrusive thing to do is to string a wire from the ECU plug out the window, draped over the wing and through the bonnet shut to the TPS Go for test drive. If it still goes wrong, you haven't wasted a day carefully routing a new wire and soldering it into place to replace a perfectly okay wire If it was a permanent fix, I'd be removing the pin from the plug and desoldering the existing wire to do a proper job. But what's the point of doing that at this stage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristian_Wraae Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Didn't you get an extra TPS and ECU pin with a bit of wire? I would depin the VTA at the ECU and the TPS side and use the two extra pins/wires with a long wire soldered in between. I wouldnt cut anything until you know what is wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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