Littler Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) The built block idea sounded interesting....Maybe Paul can do you and dad a deal... Stop it! As often as this doesn't happen Chris has a point!! And I for one am very curious about how far the power will go on yours considering it's still rising at the redline! Absolutely love your setup Dave, as you know Edited August 29, 2013 by Littler (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Built blocks are awesome..... Oh yeah...! I for one am very curious about how far the power will go on yours considering it's still rising at the redline! Absolutely love your setup Dave, as you know Yeah it'd be nice to balance everything, increase the rev limit and crank up the boost a notch or two... I've literally been out of debt (and therefore the actual, technical, black-and-white owner of my car) since the start of this month, so I can't get back into debt in practically the same breath! As often as this doesn't happen, Chris has a point!! Also, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I always have a valid point! Im also very good at spending other people's money. Just ask my Dad..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted August 29, 2013 Author Share Posted August 29, 2013 Im very good at spending other people's money. I do far too much of a good job of pre-spending my own money as it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I have a rather tasty 3.4 stroker block here ready to go if needed, that with a big valve head would make a serious street car. All in stock, see you Monday Dave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 I used tiger seal and gym weights to hold down my ridox worked a treat . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 (edited) Yeah the thought did occur to me at the time that this would mean yet more similarities... Damn straight! If I'm keeping them afloat I want a discount! Built blocks are awesome..... Only difference being you have a manual Dave, that will always keep you ahead in some peoples eyes 3.5 FTW! Hey Bieber Apologies for missing the cambelt post, I shall keep fingers crossed you'll make an appearance for chicken at BW Edited August 29, 2013 by thetrashcanman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Bieber Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 I have a rather tasty 3.4 stroker block here ready to go if needed, that with a big valve head would make a serious street car. All in stock, see you Monday Dave! You know you want to Dave, that will keep you ahead of the game! Why pay nearly as much to have Paul put together a standard 3.0 built block?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 I used tiger seal and gym weights to hold down my ridox worked a treat . Goddammit...! I guess I could remove it and do the job again to re-centre everything but now I've put a bead of the sealant all the way around I'm reluctant to do so... Oh well. If When I get my carbon boot lid, if I decide to transfer the lip spoiler across, I know for next time... Only difference being you have a manual Dave, that will always keep you ahead in some peoples eyes Apologies for missing the cambelt post, I shall keep fingers crossed you'll make an appearance for chicken at BW Getrag FTW every time!! And yeah I'm still undecided about Bluewater so watch this space. You know you want to Dave, that will keep you ahead of the game! Why pay nearly as much to have Paul put together a standard 3.0 built block?! My two opposing schools of thought on the matter are that it would be nice to increase the rev limit to extract more top-end grunt, which I've heard isn't recommended on a 3.4l 2JZ because it makes it over-square; on the other hand, low-end shove and spooling the turbo quicker (with more boost... ) sounds nice too... I just don't know!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Mark Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 My two opposing schools of thought on the matter are that it would be nice to increase the rev limit to extract more top-end grunt, which I've heard isn't recommended on a 3.4l 2JZ because it makes it over-square; on the other hand, low-end shove and spooling the turbo quicker (with more boost... ) sounds nice too... I just don't know!!! I'd go for an engine with a high rev limit. I'd love an engine that would rev to 8.5K. It's one of the things I miss about having a bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Bieber Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 My two opposing schools of thought on the matter are that it would be nice to increase the rev limit to extract more top-end grunt, which I've heard isn't recommended on a 3.4l 2JZ because it makes it over-square; on the other hand, low-end shove and spooling the turbo quicker (with more boost... ) sounds nice too... I just don't know!!! The Titan stroker kits are rated to 9,000rpm for the 3.4 and 9,500 for the 3.2.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 The Titan stroker kits are rated to 9,000rpm for the 3.4 Ooooooooohhhhhh... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littler Posted August 30, 2013 Share Posted August 30, 2013 Ooooooooohhhhhh... Dooooo itttttttt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted August 30, 2013 Author Share Posted August 30, 2013 Dooooo itttttttt! Stopitstopitstopitstopitstopit!!! :spank: :spank: :spank: I'd love to, really, but it's been less than a month since the rest of the work has been paid off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Stopitstopitstopitstopitstopit!!! :spank: :spank: :spank: I'd love to, really, but it's been less than a month since the rest of the work has been paid off! What are you waiting for then?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gpro Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 looks fresh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPG Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Dooooo itttttttt! Gotta agree Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Have you bought that stroker kit yet Dave? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 What are you waiting for then?! Gotta agree Have you bought that stroker kit yet Dave? I'm obviously going to have to resort to the tried and trusted 'stick your fingers in your ears and say lalalalalala really loud until they go away' technique here... looks fresh! Thanks matey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 I'll just leave this here Dave to help make your mind up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted September 1, 2013 Author Share Posted September 1, 2013 If I had the £12k-ish required I'd be on it in a flash. But I don't. So I'm not. Buuuutttt... In my new-found out-of-debt wealth I reckon I can have the money together within the next 12 months (3.4l block, stage 3 head, engine bay smoothed / re-painted... the works!) so it'll happen soonish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveR Posted September 2, 2013 Author Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) Today, despite the *ahem* issues I had earlier in the week with my Ridox lip spoiler, I decided to fit my Whifbitz carbon fibre scuttle panel. The stock one came off very easily without having to remove the bonnet, since a. it's quite flexible and b. if it gets 'hurt' a bit, it doesn't really matter (it didn't). After 18 years things had got quite grimey under there: ...so I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean. With that done, I carefully removed all of the rubber seals from the stock part and washed them in some warm water too: The two smaller ones seal the bonnet hinges and the long thin one seals the panel against the windscreen. Risk time! There is a requirement to cut away a portion of the carbon scuttle panel; the part you can see in this picture that protrudes from between the two slits that are roughly perpendicular to the edge - this allows for the bonnet hinge to move freely without fouling the panel and is sealed by the aforementioned rubber parts: Paul (Mr Whifbitz ) said that future stocks will have this part pre-cut, but mine still needed fettling. So, measure twice and cut once an' all that I marked everything up using some masking tape and a permi pen: And got going with the Dremel: To save anyone else who might be reading this and intending on fitting one of these the same to-ing and fro-ing and trial and error that I then went through, what you ACTUALLY need to cut away is quite a bit more material so that the bonnet hinge has sufficient room to move. The final amount I cut is shown in this modified pic: If you compare this with the stock part, you'll see it matches more closely. EDIT: It makes a lot of sense to include a picture of the stock part here really... With that all done, I ran a thin bead of Tiger Seal along the rearmost edge of the underside of the panel and around my freshly cut bonnet hinge slits and glued the rubber seals in place: The long windscreen seal needs stretching slightly to ensure it fits correctly. To fit the panel, once everything was dry of course, I pressed into service a burly friend to hold the bonnet for me while I unfastened one of the hinges to allow me to slip the new panel into position. The new piece isn't flexible enough to go in in the same way the stock one came out (well, it might be, but at £250 or whatever they are, do you REALLY want to take the risk...?) so my advice is either to do what I did or, if you fancy it, remove the bonnet completely. Either way, the piece is a really good fit and slides into place without too much pushing and pulling (and swearing, etc! ) once you have sufficient access. Once it was in place, I re-fastened the hinge bolts (so my mate could relax and have a brew!) and then simply re-attached all of the stock screws and plastic clips (the holes all lined up impressively perfectly, which I was very happy about understandably!) and of course the windscreen wipers. With everything in place (and the bonnet panel gaps checked to make sure the hinge went back in the exact right place), it's time to stand back and admire... Muuuuch better! This close-up shows the amount of material I removed for the bonnet hinges, covered by the stock rubber seal: Edited September 3, 2013 by DaveR Added pic of stock part for comparison (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 Today, despite the *ahem* issues I had earlier in the week with my Ridox lip spoiler, I decided to fit my Whifbitz carbon fibre scuttle panel. The stock one came off very easily without having to remove the bonnet, since a. it's quite flexible and b. if it gets 'hurt' a bit, it doesn't really matter (it didn't). After 18 years things had got quite grimey under there: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174530&d=1378139625 ...so I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean. With that done, I carefully removed all of the rubber seals from the stock part and washed them in some warm water too: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174531&d=1378139625 The two smaller ones seal the bonnet hinges and the long thin one seals the panel against the windscreen. Risk time! There is a requirement to cut away a portion of the carbon scuttle panel; the part you can see in this picture that protrudes from between the two slits that are roughly perpendicular to the edge - this allows for the bonnet hinge to move freely without fouling the panel and is sealed by the aforementioned rubber parts: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174532&d=1378139625 Paul (Mr Whifbitz ) said that future stocks will have this part pre-cut, but mine still needed fettling. So, measure twice and cut once an' all that I marked everything up using some masking tape and a permi pen: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174533&d=1378139625 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174534&d=1378139625 And got going with the Dremel: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174535&d=1378139661 To save anyone else who might be reading this and intending on fitting one of these the same to-ing and fro-ing and trial and error that I then went through, what you ACTUALLY need to cut away is quite a bit more material so that the bonnet hinge has sufficient room to move. The final amount I cut is shown in this modified pic: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174536&d=1378139661 If you compare this with the stock part, you'll see it matches more closely. With that all done, I ran a thin bead of Tiger Seal along the rearmost edge of the underside of the panel and around my freshly cut bonnet hinge slits and glued the rubber seals in place: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174537&d=1378139661 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174538&d=1378139661 To fit the panel, once everything was dry of course, I pressed into service a burly friend to hold the bonnet for me while I unfastened one of the hinges to allow me to slip the new panel into position. The new piece isn't flexible enough to go in in the same way the stock one came out (well, it might be, but at £250 or whatever they are, do you REALLY want to take the risk...?) so my advice is either to do what I did or, if you fancy it, remove the bonnet completely. Either way, the piece is a really good fit and slides into place without too much pushing and pulling (and swearing, etc! ) once you have sufficient access. Once it was in place, I re-fastened the hinge bolts (so my mate could relax and have a brew!) and then simply re-attached all of the stock screws and plastic clips (the holes all lined up impressively perfectly, which I was very happy about understandably!) and of course the windscreen wipers. With everything in place (and the bonnet panel gaps checked to make sure the hinge went back in the exact right place), it's time to stand back and admire... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174539&d=1378139661 Muuuuch better! This close-up shows the amount of material I removed for the bonnet hinges, covered by the stock rubber seal: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=174540&d=1378139675 They do look very impressive when fitted don't they Dave, it gives the car an updated fresher look, glad you liked the way it fits! Oh and your write ups are great by the way, keep them coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Bieber Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 mmmmm carbon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetrashcanman Posted September 2, 2013 Share Posted September 2, 2013 mmmmm carbon Tempted? Nice one Dave looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.