Guest Tayousei Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) Hey guys, I just completed a build that consists of a 3.2l stroker, proefi, single turbo and I'm having a couple issues I'm hoping someone can help me out with. I'm tired and losing the will to go on, lol. 1) I have an oil pressure reading of 3-4psi at idle, where I should be seeing like 7+psi. The oil pump is brand new, there's no oil leaks, dipstick looks full to me. The system is modified in the following manner: OEM cooler is gone, replaced with a takeoff plate. 10an lines, 1.5ft up to the filter where the trac pump used to be. Then about 1.5ft down to the frame, facing the the intake manifold is the Mocal thermostat. It goes from there to the cooler that is where my washer fluid reservoir used to be, the back to the thermostat and back to the takeoff plate. Could something be causing my oil pump not to pump? I bought the crankshaft from someone else, so is it possible the oil pump drive gear was missing? Does it detach from the stock crank? 2) The ProEFI does not see the vehicle speed. It looks set up correctly in the tune. I hooked up the trac control through the trac computer rather than at the harness behind the radio. It doesn't see vehicle speed and so it won't upshift to the next gear. Bad sensor, or bad wiring on my part? Any thoughts? Please throw me some ideas. Thanks. Edited September 26, 2012 by Tayousei (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 (edited) Is it a TT block? And maybe a NA oil pump? Oil drive gear does detatch from crank also, but most of the time you will probably ruin your crank. If this had detatched you will see no pressure at all I guess. Edited September 26, 2012 by Kaan W (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 My money is on your pressure release valve on the front of the oil pump is stuck open. I see about 2.5 bar at idle and around 9.5 bar at WOT. 7psi is far too low for a new pump at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tayousei Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Its a tt block with new tt oil pump. Can you refresh my memory about how to check the pressure release valve? Its been a while since i was in there. I should also add that the pressure does not rise with rpms at all. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hodge Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Remove your timing casings and crank pulley, the pressure relief valve is a under the large black nut on the front of the oil pump. Just to add, unfortunately if you've had the car running, and tried to rev it for any period of time, odds are your bearings will have worn and cams will be scored. Drop your oil, if there's silver flakes in it, that means strip down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tayousei Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Remove your timing casings and crank pulley, the pressure relief valve is a under the large black nut on the front of the oil pump. Just to add, unfortunately if you've had the car running, and tried to rev it for any period of time, odds are your bearings will have worn and cams will be scored. Drop your oil, if there's silver flakes in it, that means strip down. Thanks, I'll check the oil today. I hope to God that isn't the case. As for the relief valve, how would I verify that it is stuck open? What would cause that to happen other than a defective pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 The only way to check the OPRV is to undo and remove the nut and spring and see if the BB is jammed with some debris etc, however its awkward to get the nut on and off due to the proximity of the casting above, its also hard to get the tread started when replacing as the spring tension is quite hard. What pressure gauge are you using, and where is it plumbed in? Also has the take off plate got a thermostat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tayousei Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm using a 52mm CAN gauge for the proefi with a proefi pressure sensor. It's plumbed into my oil relocation plate, and I have an inline Mocal thermostat after the filter. I'll report back with some findings later today. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tina n paul Posted September 27, 2012 Share Posted September 27, 2012 Is there an oil light on the dash does it go out on tickover??? i know there not fullproof , but even so ,could be gauge fault , , with engine running on idle if you take oil cap of can you see oil in the cylinder head splashing or getting up to the top ? . if not id check to see oil pick up pipe isnt bent or stuck to oil sump , ,as well as other helpfull hints allready mentioned . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tayousei Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 Fixed it, guys! I had my lines mixed on the oil filter relocation block. PLENTY of oil pressure now. Almost too much, which is funny considering I have some 90 degree fittings, -10AN lines and the filter/sensor are at the top of the engine bay. I have 20psi at idle and a max of 105psi WOT. Oil change didn't look too bad and the turbo spins like new. What a relief! Thanks for the help guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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