96 Full Stock NA / MT Cranks but won't start... Advice is appreciated...

[Guest maaximuus]

First, thanks in advance for reading this.

 

I have a owned a 96 manual N/A and have accrued 387k miles on it. In my opinion it had never given me any problems, but have not been proactive in keeping up with it except for standard tune ups (oil/plugs/air); truly too much in the past dealing with my job to stop the car.

 

About a month ago, I stopped the car in my driveway and didn't turn it on for about 3 days. Pretty much a 3-4 day non-stop storm. So a lot of rain. I needed to get out on the job and the car wouldn't start. It cranks, but no start.

 

I'd say I am average when it comes to fixing cars. Dealt with an 84 celica and a markIII supra before my markIV.

 

I have the manual, I have researched this online and decided back then (4 weeks ago) to just see this as a time to give it the TLC it needed.

 

FUEL

 

I replaced the fuel pump (toyota).

I replaced the fuel filter - The one in place definitely needed replacement.

I replaced the fuel pressure regulator for shits and giggles.

 

Pressure => I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to test actual pressure, but upon removing bolts that hold fuel pressure regulator, the regulator body pops up and out about 1/4"-1/2" from rail.

 

I have tested pulse at injector #1. Due to overhead admission manifold, I have not set fuel injector pulse or solenoid tests for the other cylinders.

 

 

SPARK

 

I have placed new spark plugs (NGK Iridiums)

I have replaced the spark plug wires (toyota)

I have replaced the distributor rotor and cap - These guys were oxidized. Rotor was running on a tiny bit of the conducting element/plate.

 

I have not replaced distributor and I am about to test gap at distributor coil which I believe is related to the CAM-SHAFT sensor... ?

 

I have tested spark at ignition coil pre-wire to distributor.

I have tested spark at end-wire to distributor cap.

I have tested spark at all pre-wire distributor connections.

 

I have only tested spark at spark plug #1.

 

I am unsure how to gauge weak or strong spark. From my input, there's a spark. At spark plug #1, there's a beautiful sun bright spark when cranked. That's my extent of weak or strong spark evaluation.

 

I have sprayed starter fluid in admission manifold; manually opening throttle to make sure it sprays internally and car won't start.

 

I have tested resistance at ignition coil and it's under specifications of TSRM.

 

 

INTAKE

 

I have tested resistance at MAF, including trying a new a MAF with no avail.

 

 

RELAYS

 

I have checked STARTER, MAIN, relays at fusebox within the hood.

 

I don't see any relays that may be related in the inside fusebox...

 

FUSES

 

I have checked all fuses.c EFI, IGNITION, etc. They are all intact, but may go buy new ones and replaced them all just for the heck of it.

 

I have not confirmed O2, TPS, CRANK POSITION, SUB-THROTTLE sensors.

 

EXHAUST

 

EGR system was clogged, but I cleaned all pipes and confirmed flow. I also confirmed EGR valve to make sure it was up to specs.

 

ECM

I did attempt to check ECM, but there was no physical problems. I didn't want to access the weather seal of the box since the car was starting before. I am hoping that the injector pulse confirmation means that ECM is likely ok...

 

ALARM

 

Has been removed and tested. No changes. Alarm acts on STARTER only. I have tested alarm and it functions as it should. It kills starter completely when activated and starter cranks when alarm is off.

 

 

THINGS TO NOTE:

Initial issue started when my car was parked at about a 15-30 degree angle in the driveway. I brought it down street level to see if push starting it would make it start with no luck. I had replaced spark plugs, fuel filter and pump street level and car turned on. It would idle hard and upon accelerating, it would turn off. I decided to put it back in the driveway for safety and then it stopped starting again, just like the initial situation. I brought back down street level and it's still not starting at all.

 

Also, I have a ScanGaugeII on the car an no engine codes are thrown.

 

 

So... my question...

 

Is there ANYTHING that I have missed that would keep me from getting ignition at cylinders? I think TPS, but everything seems so out of left field since the car was cranking and running smooth before I stopped it for that period of time. Smooth idle, clean starts...

 

 

Any input, suggestions?

 

Thank you!

Edited September 22, 2012 by maaximuus (see edit history)

[David P]

Could be a dicky crank position sensor in the distributor.