Guest Kaz123 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Since I haven't had any input on the oil feed location for the turbo, I opted to use the front feed and block off the rear. I also believe for the coolant lines I am going to use the nipple coming out of the water pump housing as the "in" and One of the upper radiator hard line nipples as the "out" Any input is appreciated but I'm defiantly not holding my breath. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Can a mod please move this as I feel it would be useful as a technical guide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Dude I have sent Pm's and just about every post reiterates what you said but no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 I found a rear diff out of a Lexus gs300. Seller claims its a lsd with 4.10 gears. It's far cheaper than the route I initially intended but would like to get some thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Hey dude, welcome to the forum! As far as diffs go, the SZ-R NA prefacelift used a 4.083 LSD (A01B). My car started as an SZ with a 4.083 open diff (A01A). I have the GTE lump though. Acceleration was crazy! It blew though so I'm on a TT Auto diff now (3.769 LSD (A02B)). Still picks up pace pretty damn quick! The only thing with the SZ-R 4.083 LSD is the flange at the end. It was originally mated to the W58 5 speed box, so if you are using a V160/V161 you will need a different flange! Also, depending on current driveshafts, they may need changed too (all of the A series diffs are small cased (8")). Hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemesis Posted October 5, 2012 Share Posted October 5, 2012 Kaz, I think if you join the club, i.e. pay your £10 membership a mod may be more inclined to move the thread to where I'm sure it'll generate a lot more interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Thank you for the info HateEvent. I do plan on having a drive shaft made do to the aristo trans has a flange and the NA trans had a slip yoke. I might stick with the the stock diff and just put an LSD unit in as I originally intended, and if I need taller gearing swap to an auto tt diff. And thank you Nemesis I was unaware there were dues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Here is the make or break part of this swap. The mating of the aristo ecu to the supra body. I was lucky enough to get a portion of an aristo body harness with my engine so, I'm attempting to splice the two harnesses together the best they fit. These are the three supra engine harness plugs that fit into the body harness These are the two aristo body harness plugs that fit into the aristo ecu. Now all you have to do is just swap the plugs........ Kidding of course. I am labeling each and every wire on both the supra and aristo harnesses Here is the supra outer ecu plug labeled By doing this I know I am wasting a lot of time because some wires will not mesh. But, reading every pin's code and description helps me visualize this task and get me closer to a clean swap. This is the aristo body harness completely labeled. It looks like a mess but all I should have to do is plug in the connectors to the ecu harness and mate the corresponding supra pins to the supra body harness so, that I make a translator harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I would like to make a chart that shows where to run one pin to the other but I'm not sure how simple that's going to be. I'm going to start splicing tomorrow so we will see then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I have been using wilbo666's info on the pinouts and it has been a great help. Need more people like him in this world. I did run into a couple differences from his info and what my harness had. This is the white plug from the engine harness or "loom" that plugs under the passages dash on a usdm 95 na auto supra. This is the back. Now the yellow wire sits in the #3 pin for reference purposes. On wilbo's wiki the #9 pin should be blank but I have a black wire with 2 silver dots. That wire i believe is my starter signal. On this pic you can see the # 13 pin has a black wire with a white line. On wilbo's page that should be blank. On my harness that is the NSW or neutral park switch. This pic shows the back of the grey harness plug. The blue wire on the outside ( top right in pic) is in the #8 pin position. And you can see the #7 is blank. Wilbo's info says the NSW should sit there. Same plug in this pic. The yellow wire goes to my oil pressure switch. Should be blank according to wiki. I will try to post all differences in data I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Welcome! Quick progress! £10 membership required soon though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kaz123 Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I understand there is a fee for membership but honestly I'm not looking to be a member. I'm from the states so I won't be using the trader thing. All I'm looking to do is document this under taking and help others out. Most sites I go to and research this swap are negative from people too stupid to change their own oil. I'm not looking to take anything or be given anything, only to provide information to the public free of charge. Who does that anymore? This is going to be a full restoration of this car. I have a MVP Motorsports trd widebody kit coming and will be doing a walk through on proper installation of that as well along with remodeling the interior. So Im not sure why I should pay a fee when I'm the one doing all the work. If I'm wrong please tell me but those are just the thoughts in my head right now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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