-Welsh-Stealth- Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 22mm socket 228 nm I think. Could be 224nm. But I just go with 230nm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted September 9, 2012 Share Posted September 9, 2012 new coolant too? beings tho the rad will be taken out? thats 40 quid right there too No need to remove the rad to do the crank pulley. I took the viscous fan off just to get some more room. Once thats out the way, there is plenty of room to do the crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Crank shaft pulley torque is 330 Nm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Welsh-Stealth- Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Crank shaft pulley torque is 330 Nm Cheers clearly got that wrong. Snap on gun won't though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 Cheers clearly got that wrong. Snap on gun won't though Need to be careful using an air gun mate. I got told to be careful not to over tighten as this can cause damage to the crank apparently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 (edited) I'd rather use a torque wrench, how will you know what you have done it up too with an air gun ? A 3/4" drive Snap on air gun can go up to 1200ft lbs, 330 nm is approx 240 ft lbs Edited September 10, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I'd rather use a torque wrench, how will you know what you have done it up too with an air gun ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 http://www1.snapon.com/23743/Programs/HeavyDutyBolting/ImpactWrenches.nws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 No need to remove the rad to do the crank pulley. I took the viscous fan off just to get some more room. Once thats out the way, there is plenty of room to do the crank pulley. ahh bugger, ohhwell i was meaning to change the coolant anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Welsh-Stealth- Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 http://www1.snapon.com/23743/Programs/HeavyDutyBolting/ImpactWrenches.nws I see your post& raise you: You'd have to be mad not to torque it up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 ahh bugger, ohhwell i was meaning to change the coolant anyway Thers a drain valve on the bottom of the rad (on a stock one anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihai Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Is this failure a tipical issue for all the Supra´s ? because i did change the crank pulley in my car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Yep, they all have the same bonded together crank pulley but some will last longer than others. I changed mine purely as a precaution because it had done 125k miles and was 17 yrs old but it appeared to be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The-Plethora Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Happened to me also, thankfully I spotted it in time, it's quite common. The stock one is recommended which is what I bought but there is debate about aftermarket ones not being weighted or dampened properly (cheap ones I mean). But there are other people running them quite happily. Hard to know what to do, a solid one you could be fairly sure wouldnt break whereas the stock one you know eventually will regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mihai Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Yep, they all have the same bonded together crank pulley but some will last longer than others. I changed mine purely as a precaution because it had done 125k miles and was 17 yrs old but it appeared to be fine. God move ! now you don´t have to worry about this problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 (edited) God move ! now you don´t have to worry about this problem Chris Wilson on here had one that had only done a few hundred miles and it was 1/3 of the price that Toyota want so i grabbed a bargin and fitted it Worst case senario of these failing can leave you with serious damage, someone on here had to replace their oil pump if i remember correctly due to the metal outer ring of the crank pulley hitting it when it flew off. Edited September 11, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT Paul Posted September 14, 2012 Share Posted September 14, 2012 ive got 2 used pulleys if any good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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