Iky Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 I have a few questions regarding bearing replacement and the balljoints in the rear. As always any help will be much appreciated 1)What tools would be best to remove all three baljoints? 2)Is there one tool that will do all three? 3)Is it possible to replace the bearing with the hub carrier still in place? Cheers, Iky. P.S If anyone local has removal tools to help, I would be extremely gratefull if you would let me borrow them F.O.C or a small fee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 1. 17-19mm sockets, 1 metre or so steel bar with a friend to lean on it and a big hammer. 2. Bigger hammer. 3. Bad idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted August 30, 2012 Share Posted August 30, 2012 http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/SA.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
probrox Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 I used a big hammer and it took bloody ages. I was scared of damaging so I enlisted a mate to give me a hand. When he turned up he just hit them as hard as he could, but it worked. When I did mine I replaced the hub complete which i got from Keron on here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 31, 2012 Share Posted August 31, 2012 Steady heavy pressure on the bar in the direction of off and a well aimed wallop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 (edited) Sorry, should have mentioned, all nuts/bolts are loose but i just cant get the three ball joints out the taper. Edited August 31, 2012 by Iky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 1. 17-19mm sockets, 1 metre or so steel bar with a friend to lean on it and a big hammer. 2. Bigger hammer. 3. Bad idea. There doesn't seem to be enough room for a good swing to smack the balljoint out. Why is 3 a bad idea David? so I know. http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/SA.pdf Thanks Nic, but I've already had a look at that before I began. Toyota's SST's make it seem easy enough. But I don't have that luxury unfortunately I used a big hammer and it took bloody ages. I was scared of damaging so I enlisted a mate to give me a hand. When he turned up he just hit them as hard as he could, but it worked. When I did mine I replaced the hub complete which i got from Keron on here. That's exactly what I was worried about, usually i just clout the side of the part where the ball joint taper fits and it pops out but not this time. Tie rod ends are easy enough but these are buggers of balljoints. I've been trying with a 8mm flat end punch to concentrate the force where I need it but it's just damaging the hub carrier. I don't really want to replace the carrier as they are in pretty good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted August 31, 2012 Author Share Posted August 31, 2012 Is this any good to use on these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Ball-Joint-Remover-AK381-/120627525704?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item1c15f5f848 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2soops Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Getting the hub offs the easy bit, you'll ned a 10 tonne press to actually change the bearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 1, 2012 Author Share Posted September 1, 2012 (edited) Got it off! It's not the bearing that I found difficult, it's that bastid of a balljoint thats on the lower shocker arm. Its the taper bit thats wide and long. The normal scissor remover type is just a touch too small for it even after I grinded a bit off to make it open wider. The jaws are at the wrong angle and slip off. I perciveered (sp) with some penetrant spray and a hammer the fook out of an extension bar with a socket on it. Luckily I got it early so the hub looks fine. Just waiting for the new bearing to turn up and then I'll get a local garage to press it in. Should I bother doing the driver side or should I wait for it to screw up? I've heard the passenger side is more prone to falliure from driving through puddles or is that a myth? Edited September 1, 2012 by Iky (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2soops Posted September 1, 2012 Share Posted September 1, 2012 Mine was the passenger side also, I don't think it's the puddles, more likely that there's always way more potholes at the edge of the road, hence they take more of a beating on that side. I'd wait and do the other one when it goes. Hope you got new inner and outer seals when you got the bearing, personally I wouldn't put the old ones back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 2, 2012 Author Share Posted September 2, 2012 Mine was the passenger side also, I don't think it's the puddles, more likely that there's always way more potholes at the edge of the road, hence they take more of a beating on that side. I'd wait and do the other one when it goes. Hope you got new inner and outer seals when you got the bearing, personally I wouldn't put the old ones back in Oh yes, most kits seem to come with new seals, the old ones were damaged on removal anyway. The driveshaft flange came out without any damage so i'm going to reuse that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted September 2, 2012 Share Posted September 2, 2012 Hi Where did you buy the bearing I will need that for the front ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraP-Z Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 My rear passenger side wheel bearing has a bit of play in it...how much would i be looking to pay approx parts inc labour for a job like this? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 Hi Where did you buy the bearing I will need that for the front ? FRONT http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-3-0i-twin-turbo-Coupe-RWD-1993-1996-FRONT-WHEEL-BEARING-FBK690-/290736112830?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43b13904be REAR http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Supra-3-0i-turbo-Coupe-RWD-1989-1993-REAR-WHEEL-BEARING-FBK691-/290632630898?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43ab0e0272 MK3 and MK4 Supra's are the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 My rear passenger side wheel bearing has a bit of play in it...how much would i be looking to pay approx parts inc labour for a job like this? Cheers The bearing is not that expensive, but if the hub flange is damaged then it's about £180-£200 from Toyota. Labour probably a few hours, It depends if the garage has the correct tools. It took me the most time to get the lower arm balljoint off since it's quite big and normal off the shelf tools don't fit correctly. The other two smaller balljoints came off piece of piss with a scissor type remover. I was extra carefull not to damage the balljoint rubbers though. I reccomend going to one of the traders on here as they will have the correct bits to press the bearing/flange/dust seals in correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 Ok, I've been at this for over 5 hours now and still can't get the hub off! It's those bleeding ball joints! Drive shaft is still connected and brake disc is still on too but disc is coming off first thing in the morning as I didn't have any bolts to hand for 'pushing' it off. Wanted to avoid removing the drive shaft if possible but may have to if I have no luck in the morning. How have you guys done it in the past? Do you need a ball joint separator? I just cant seem to get any movement on it! Any help is appreciated as I've most likely missed something really obvious or am just being dumb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 17, 2012 Author Share Posted September 17, 2012 Ok, I've been at this for over 5 hours now and still can't get the hub off! It's those bleeding ball joints! Drive shaft is still connected and brake disc is still on too but disc is coming off first thing in the morning as I didn't have any bolts to hand for 'pushing' it off. Wanted to avoid removing the drive shaft if possible but may have to if I have no luck in the morning. How have you guys done it in the past? Do you need a ball joint separator? I just cant seem to get any movement on it! Any help is appreciated as I've most likely missed something really obvious or am just being dumb! To take the disc off i had to loose the ratchet mechanism for the brake shoes. Ther's a lttle rubber gromet on the disc, take that off and use a flat blade screwdriver to turn the cog at the bottom. i can't remember what way but try it either way and you'll feel the disc go looser. Just pulls off easy then. The balljoints- I managed with a Laser scissor type splitter for the two smaller ones but the larger one took a lot of pounding with a heavy hammer. I used an extension bar with a strong 19mm socket on the end to prevent damage to the balljoint. Loosen the nut a few turns and spray lots of penetrant spray. WD40 didn't do jack shit so got some other one from Halfords. The extension bar was mullered after I'd finished but it did the job. Shame you're not closer otherwise I could have given you a hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Turn the disc with the access hole to 6pm on a clock face and then you can turn the adjuster to back off the handbrake shoes, the disc should come off easily then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I notice on my front discs they don't have noting like that, I have changed to brembo oem rotors I really suspect there is something missing there or not, on the front discs is necessary that(sorry the offtopic) ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I notice on my front discs they don't have noting like that, I have changed to brembo oem rotors I really suspect there is something missing there or not, on the front discs is necessary that(sorry the offtopic) ? Are you referring to the diagram i posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 No, I notice that is for the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 What do you think is missing ? This is a front hub complete apart from the disc and caliper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Cheers guys. Getting the brake disc off was no problem, I learnt about the little cog the hard way last time I changed the disc! I've now disconnected the lower arm so I can get better access to split that ball joint once its all off the car. The only thing stopping it all coming off is the upper wishbone ball joint, but I'm popping round a mates later to get the splitter jaws widened a little so it fits properly, then it should work fine. Its still on the drive shaft too but I'm hoping it will just slide off! Fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batmax Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Mine is the same, I was talking about when you said where the brake disk will attach in the front how the brake disk is fixed to the hub only with the wheel nuts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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