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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Real time info from standard VVTi ECU


Slicknick

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I've Torque on my Android phone and I use it with a Bluetooth adapter on a couple of other (OBD2) cars we have.

 

I bought a cheap Toyota diagnostic port to OBD2 adapter off eBay to try on my (OBD1?) UK model. It fits perfectly, but sadly the set-up doesn't give any results on the Torque app - in fact, the Bluetooth adapter doesn't even show any signs of life - the LEDs don't light up.

 

I didn't really expect it to work, but thought it was worth a try for a fiver for the adapter.

 

you need to rewire it a bit as there is no power supply for obd reader in original supra socket (except for vvti one). I'll try to find this post on US forum about adapting supra socket to obd2 one

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you need to rewire it a bit as there is no power supply for obd reader in original supra socket (except for vvti one). I'll try to find this post on US forum about adapting supra socket to obd2 one

 

I have read about changing ECUs to make OBD1 (or whatever they are) pre-VVTi cars into OBD2, but I've not seen anything about a bit of a rewire to get some info for the Torque app out of pre-VVTi cars. It'll be good if you could find the info. :)

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That's fascinating :)

 

I'm guessing the 13% throttle angle is the DBW controlling the idle? And surely you'd need a wideband to get meaningful lambda readings, I wasn't aware the VVTi had one of those but I'm ready to be corrected.

 

If it's anything like the BMW OBD2 readouts, then the TPS% actually refers to the throttle butterfly and not the throttle pedal, and I think the minimum was something like 10%

I'm sure you're right about the lambda reading. It's probably just some a vague interpretation of the lambda voltage maybe?

 

Looks great anyway. VVTi FTW!

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Is that throttle position versus pedal position?

 

 

I think so. I can't quite remember what I read/came across. Now that I think about it, it might have been the LS2 DBW stuff - it was either that or the BMW, and basically TPS always started at about 10% for some perfectly valid reason, and it wasn't what you first thought it was - i.e. it was the throttle butterfly position, not the throttle pedal position, or something. Pedal was down as "APP" (accelerator pedal pos) or something.

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Ah that sucks.

 

I'm guessing the diagnostic port is OBD1 then?

 

It's a proprietary Toyota thing. Useful from time to time but not very exciting. You can run tests by pulsing certain pins together and stuff, and reset airbag light and what not. I did have CJ's nice box of service manuals but I think they got left at the ex GFs house. doh!

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I think so. I can't quite remember what I read/came across. Now that I think about it, it might have been the LS2 DBW stuff - it was either that or the BMW, and basically TPS always started at about 10% for some perfectly valid reason, and it wasn't what you first thought it was - i.e. it was the throttle butterfly position, not the throttle pedal position, or something. Pedal was down as "APP" (accelerator pedal pos) or something.

 

The TPS will read a small percentage at idle (KOER), 5-10% ish as the butterfly will be slightly open to allow idle. (KOEO) should read 0%. :)

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Hope to have this running for jae if anybody wants to have a look

 

Quick tip, when you add the sensors to your custom page in torque, add them them without the car running, I found if I tried to get the "add sensors" list up (which pulls info from every engine sensor) the app pulls too much data from the ecu and throws up the engine warning light, easily cleared by re-starting the car. The ones displayed in my video were the most useful to me without pulling too much info. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, I tried the ELM 327 Blutooth adapter today on my brother's 98 SZ... and it didn't work out (nothing lid up on the adapter). Haven't tried yet on my 98 TT VVTi, but I believe the result will be the same (as it was a SZ-R with VVTi engine swap). Does anyone know if the OBD port under the dash is connected at all or is there any difference with NA and TT VVTi (both 98) pinout on this port?

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for thread bump - however just bought this setup myself and an running the application on my Asus Transformer Prime tablet - works flawlessly - reads Revs, Speed etc. in real time - tried pulling codes (as I have an intermittent engine stall, basically at 10km/hr and at 70km/hr the engine randomly cut out and I had to cruise the car to a stop, car wouldn't start for a good 15-20 minutes, not sure if something is overheating, a sensor is faulty/getting too hot etc.) - no codes registered though on the app - didn't realise you can add sensors so I'll give that a shot next to see what sensors are available.

 

Mine's a 2000 RZ - very happy with this app setup though, best $40 I've spent on the car I think!

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Your welcome, just don't add sensors with the engine running as it throws up the engine warning light, so far the working sensors and most useful i have found for the car are:

 

Engine Coolant Temp

Gearbox oil Temp (method 2) Very useful to monitor the autobox temp!

Air intake Temp

RPM

MAF flow rate

Vacuum & Boost

Throttle Position

Timing Advance, again very usefull to see how much timing the ecu is pulling!

AFR (Not very accurate from stock sensor)

Voltage

 

All extremely handy things to know on the car :D

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  • 2 months later...
  • 4 years later...

I know this thread is a few years old, but I've bought an adapter to try and figure out what my ecu fault codes are but the adaoter can't connect to my ecu.

 

I've put the custom code in and nothing changed. Can anyone who's done this previously try and help me out please?

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Just had a quick play with mine this afternoon. The odd little connection issue. Found if the app disconnected it won't properly close unless you force stop, then upon reopening would connect ok.

 

Looks like the fault codes may be given generic numbers within the app. This is what happened when I pulled the 15a ETCS fuse.

 

image

 

FWIW I tried the throttle reset procedure again and couldn't get it to work so may be hit and miss.

 

 

Are you sure you've got the "init" code typed in correctly? I copy/pasted from this thread to make sure. Once I'd dug the packaging for the adaptor out of the bin to find the Bluetooth code, it connected fine ;)

Edited by samdale (see edit history)
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