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Kaan's SRD1000S - 3.4 Stroked Wide Body Project!


Kaan W

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Done a bit more today on the brake lines, im still not sure on these two braided hoses as they dont run parallel to each other so I need to re do the bottom one a bit longer so it runs the same as the top one.

 

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To protect the copper hardlines that run inside the car below the heater matrix I have sleeved them in hard plastic pipe, this should keep them safe from any vibration wear, I will cable tie them together every few inches also.

 

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Note: There will be a grommet there ;) Just a test fit for now until all the lines are made up. This is the front passnger side where it comes through the footwell.

 

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This is the second line that runs under the heater matrix and comes out by the fuel filter, this is for the 2 rear brakes.

 

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And a couple of random pictures for your viewing pleasure :D

 

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Edited by Kaan W (see edit history)
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looks great well done for doing it yourself too:salute: when you bonded your arches on did you just fix in place with rivets then fiberglass resin the whole lot together of did u use a bonding agent as well? just in the process of doing mine, wondering whats the best option is

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looks great well done for doing it yourself too:salute: when you bonded your arches on did you just fix in place with rivets then fiberglass resin the whole lot together of did u use a bonding agent as well? just in the process of doing mine, wondering whats the best option is

 

Thanks John :) I first riveted the arches on with some PU body sealant on the back, then they were fibreglassed over approx 3" width covering 1.5" of the arch and 1.5" bodywork. Before applying the fibreglass I used a floppy sanding disk on the grinder and took all the gel coat off the arch and all the paint off the bodywork back to bare metal. Just on the areas that were being fibreglassed of course ;)

 

There's a few pictures on page 1 I think that might help :)

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Thanks John :) I first riveted the arches on with some PU body sealant on the back, then they were fibreglassed over approx 3" width covering 1.5" of the arch and 1.5" bodywork. Before applying the fibreglass I used a floppy sanding disk on the grinder and took all the gel coat off the arch and all the paint off the bodywork back to bare metal. Just on the areas that were being fibreglassed of course ;)

 

There's a few pictures on page 1 I think that might help :)

 

Thanks yes I see them, this was how I done my bmw, a mustang garage next door to my work said about using some special 2pac resin to bond them down, trouble with these they not as simple as just bonding due to gaps ect, think ill stick to the original plan ;)

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Thanks yes I see them, this was how I done my bmw, a mustang garage next door to my work said about using some special 2pac resin to bond them down, trouble with these they not as simple as just bonding due to gaps ect, think ill stick to the original plan ;)

 

It should be ok as long as you get the fibreglassing done right, I've put my car through some stress and its held up fine :) I'll soon see once the new engines done :D

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Little update, with the power I'm going for Lee has recommended an updated diff so I've got a TRD on order for my large case. Also with the bigger turbo I'm gunno need solid engine mounts or an engine damper brace to stop the turbo hitting the strut tower, I went for the solid engine mounts along with this solid gearbox and diff mounts are needed. Hopefully they don't feel as rough as everyone says :)

Edited by Kaan W (see edit history)
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I'm running TRD 1.5 way diff Kaan ... a massive improvement over the stock unit.

 

Probably the same one I'll have, I'm not sure exactly the differences between 1.5, 2 way etc but I thought it's a good idea to replace for the increased durability as well as performance. I've heard bad things can happen if I diff fails at speed.

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