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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

more rear noises


ad500

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Ive done a search on this and couldn't find an answer.

 

I get a rear creaking noise mainly when the car transfers weight from one side of the car to the other such as roundabouts.

 

Ive done the following:

 

New rear suspension arms (both sides) Jul 2002

EBC pads Aug 2002

N/S/R bump stop Aug 2002

Camber adjusted and wheels aligned Sept 2002

N/S/R Brake disc guard adjusted Feb 2003

 

Service history shows previous owner did:

 

N/S/R wheel bearing replaced March 2001

S/ABSR strut March 2001

Rear control arm March 2002

 

I don't rememver the noise before the camber was adjusted. it was done to toyota figures but the car has 18" wheels. The negative camber was causing too much tyre wear, could they have been adjusted too far the other way to produce a positive camber.

 

Any ideas knowledgable ones?

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Could the rubbers make this sort of sound only when transferiing weight though?

 

I think its worth a try though, being that its an owners rite of passage to spend saturday morning with a brulee torch and a screwdriver to do the job.

 

Any more ideas for the afternoon?

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Originally posted by ad500

Could the rubbers make this sort of sound only when transferiing weight though?

 

I think its worth a try though, being that its an owners rite of passage to spend saturday morning with a brulee torch and a screwdriver to do the job.

 

Any more ideas for the afternoon?

 

My car creaks as you have descibed and when i applied vaseline to the rubbers the noise stopped for a brief time, i have just been too lazy to sort out this minor problem.

 

Saturday Afternoon:

Take your Supra for a well earned drive, plenty of twisty bits and long straights to get the power to full use. Then come back and post your kills on the BBS

:)

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The garage who inspects car says that the rear is always ok. Although i take it to a good garage Ive only ever seen one other mkiv down there so maybe they don't see enough of these problems to be able to identify it. It took them 4 hours of labour and many test drives to work out the rear brake guard noise (£141). And it came back with a chunk of paint off the front nosecone (can't prove it was them though).

 

i think ill replace the boot rubbers, take all the boards, wheel and jacks out of the car and go for a drive. If no luck im going to take it to Leon.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, any more welcome.

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i think ill replace the boot rubbers, take all the boards, wheel and jacks out of the car and go for a drive. If no luck im going to take it to Leon.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, any more welcome. [/b]

 

Definitely do the rubbers mate. Sounds trivial but when when I finally got round to doing mine the silence was bliss afterwards.

 

NB: If you use one of those WWII flame throwers that the Yanks used on Iwo Jima then put tin foil on top of your nice paint work and cut holes where the screws are to be flambeyed. :flame Dev

 

J

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  • 5 weeks later...

This old chestnut is still going but the noise is still there.

 

Cars been at Leons for 2 weeks now.

 

The speed related element of the noise occurs at lower driving speeds mostly into right bends/roundabouts, mainly after 5-10 miles of driving where something somewhere has heated up possibly.

 

Last 2 weeks attempts have been to replace 2 rear shocks, drivers side rear wheel bearing, full alignment, tightening of all the bolts, make sure nothing was rubbing against anything else, check that discs arn't warped, pads sited correctly and no brake guard fouling.

 

I guess this leaves driveshaft cv's, diff or driveshaft fouling as Chris suggested.

 

As a final resort before things start getting a bit expensive, can CV joints make this noise after 5-10 miles and when turning to the right?

 

Where in particular would a driveshaft foul in case Leons missed it?

 

Any guide to the price of an inner and outer CV joint?

 

Thanks for all the help so far guys.

 

If theres one thing ill know about after this, its how the a*se of my Supra works.

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Problem solved!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Turned out to be one of the drive shafts. Leon took both off and replaced them with some spares and the noise has gone.

 

I know that theres cv joints either end, but by the time you mess about trying to find which one and take the labour into account for doing so you might aswell replace the whole thing. Although were looking at restripping and reconditioning first in case thats a possible.

 

Can't understand why this failure has occured at only 80000 miles, but it did.

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote Supra Al:

.......that sounds an expensive hunt for a 'squeak'!

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This noise was probably about as bad as a shagged wheel bearing and twice as annoying.

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Has the car been lowered much? If so that's probably the problem. Lowering a double wishbone rear end a lot can cause the free lateral movement in the driveshaft joints (called plunge) to be used up, as the wheel hub becomes closer to the diff. CV joints need plunge to allow the effective length of the driveshaft to vary over bumps and when cornering.

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It was lowered once Chris but apparantly became almost undriveable. It sits on HKS springs now which i think are a fairly normal height. The cars been fine for 6 months and the noise only started happening recently. Now the replacement shafts are on (well Leon lent me his to make sure this was the problem) its gone away. Unless that is you burst my current bubble by giving me another possible solution:p

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Originally posted by ad500

It was lowered once Chris but apparantly became almost undriveable. It sits on HKS springs now which i think are a fairly normal height. The cars been fine for 6 months and the noise only started happening recently. Now the replacement shafts are on (well Leon lent me his to make sure this was the problem) its gone away. Unless that is you burst my current bubble by giving me another possible solution:p

 

 

Damage was probably started when it was lowered, only now have the C/V joints cried enough. Either lack of plunge or excess articulation (too big a shaft angle) may have done it. There's a LOT more to lowering a car than just fitting some shorter springs :eek:

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