skyludeboy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Hi any one got any tips on how remove the front oil seal without removing the oil pump and engine, any advice on how to crack on with this appreciated, genuine Toyota oil seal only lasted 4 months with new oil pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Presuming you mean the crank seal? Has it gone? If so, you are best off replacing the oil pump too mate unless it's been done recently. Crank seals going are usually caused by oil pump failure. Mine went not long ago. You can do it without removing the engine, by removing the front subframe and sumps. However, it's a pita to do. (Trust me) If I had to do it again I would pull the engine just for ease, as by the time the subframe is off, its half way to being out anyway. Plus, as they will be off anyway, check the crank pulley, timing belt etc and replace if necessary. May as well while it's all off anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Just re read the op lol To remove the seal with pump in place would be as above (subframe off) but again, if the seal has gone, I fear the pump may be faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I would get one of Chris Wilsons uprated seals. Whip off the crank pulley, cambelt and it's lower pulley and remove old seal and refit new (making sure you don't push the new seal in too far) ABSOLUTELY no need to mess about with the subframe if you just want to replace the seal - assuming the oil pump seal = front crank seal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Buy the seal mentioned first in this thread... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?261800-Various-2JZ-and-2JZ-GTE-engine-seals-gaskets&highlight=crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I was just thinking about the pump. And the fact that if the seal has gone so soon, the pump may be faulty and worth checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I think he may have the issue Chris often talks about with a slightly worn crank but it could be the pump yes, but I would try the new uprated seal first.......... Here is a cambelt change guide which explains most of the process, just the bottom cambelt pulley needs to be removed in addition to expose the seal..... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?65774-How-To-Change-the-cambelt-(93-J-Spec-TT-Auto)&highlight=cambelt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyludeboy Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 I am talking about the seal on the oil pump, oil pump was brand new fitted 4 months ago from toyota all of a sudden it started to leak today got oil on the timing belt and dripping down behind the crank pulley, crank was also good when I rebuilt my engine, hopefully this the last time I do something like this dont like to get my hands dirty any more. Cant see the oil pump failing that quick though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyludeboy Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 my main question is when I get the timing belt sprocket and expose the pump and seal do I pierce a screwdriver through the seal to get it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 If your new seal has failed, and the oil pump is new, are you quite sure there has been no oil contamination? either by foreign body, have you had anything blast cleaned, or machining of parts done? is your fueling OK IE not drastically over fueling, Both can cause premature pump wear. Also as said is there any sign of a slight groove in the crank nose? fitting a new seal very slightly further out can help with this, but if servear, metal spaying and regrinding the crank nose is the only option. The seal itself can be removed by carefully driving a small screw in just far enough and then just pulling, FMS rarely fail without a reason, if its not due to one of the above, it could be due to the seal previously being fitted too far in, and partially blocking the oil drain aperture causing too much pressure behind the seal, just like when the oil pump wears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I think you'll need something a bit sharper to cut into it, and then a wire hook or possibly a thin screw driver to lever it out. Basically after all the hard work removing everything else just take you time to remove it without scratching the crank or oil pump surfaces. Look at the new seal and you should be able to see how best to attack the old one without causing and problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyludeboy Posted July 12, 2012 Author Share Posted July 12, 2012 If your new seal has failed, and the oil pump is new, are you quite sure there has been no oil contamination? either by foreign body, have you had anything blast cleaned, or machining of parts done? is your fueling OK IE not drastically over fueling, Both can cause premature pump wear. Also as said is there any sign of a slight groove in the crank nose? fitting a new seal very slightly further out can help with this, but if servear, metal spaying and regrinding the crank nose is the only option. The seal itself can be removed by carefully driving a small screw in just far enough and then just pulling, FMS rarely fail without a reason, if its not due to one of the above, it could be due to the seal previously being fitted too far in, and partially blocking the oil drain aperture causing too much pressure behind the seal, just like when the oil pump wears. No oil contamination or fueling issues, I got a feeling the seal got fitted in about half a mm from being flush with oil pump surface, I remember I did this and taught its fitted now and left it as that and did not try to pull it back out, hopefully next seal will not fail I will inspect the crank nose when I get everything off this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 I would get one of Chris Wilsons uprated seals. Whip off the crank pulley, cambelt and it's lower pulley and remove old seal and refit new (making sure you don't push the new seal in too far) ABSOLUTELY no need to mess about with the subframe if you just want to replace the seal - assuming the oil pump seal = front crank seal See, I thought that was the case but I was informed you had to remove the oil pump to get the seal out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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