James Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 My A01A open diff has now completely broken so I'm in the need of a new diff. As far as I am aware, the A01B Torsen LSD is a straight swap? As it has the 8" crown wheel and 4.083:1 ratio. Would that be right or are there different mounts or anything? Does anyone have one available? Cash waiting! Also, how easy of a job is it to change? I'd be doing it on axle stands out on the street! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 That will go straight in yes Make sure the fill and drain plugs on the new one undo ok before you put it in! As far as fitting it goes, the only difficult bit is lifting it up and down from the subframe, they're heavy little buggers! You'll need, 10mm Allen Socket, 12mm Allen Socket, 19mm socket, breaker bar/big ratchet, and some extension bars! A mate is also a useful aid, with guiding it into place whilst you pump the jack. Best to get the car high enough that you can balance the diff on a jack coming down and then pull it out from under the car still on the jack, and vice versa going in If you're NA-TT it's probably a good idea to invest in an auto diff with the 3.7 ratio, or a TT6 diff with the 3.266 ratio. The fuel economy with the N/A ratio must be horrendous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Thanks for that! Awesome Glad it will fit straight on! I presume the 19mm is for the big 2 bolts, and then there are 3x12mm attaching it to the transmission shaft? What about to the driveshafts? Yeah, I was planning on getting it on axle stands and get a trolley jack under from the back! What type of oil do I need for the new one? As for the fuel economy and ratio etc., I think that I will just make do with that one for now if I can find one and then look into a TT auto/TT6/UK spec diff once I get the cash together for a V16x conversion too and just get it all done together! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Correct and almost correct The 12mm allen bolts hold the diff to the rear diff mounts that are pressed into the subframe at the back, just in front of the petrol tank. As yours is an NA-TT you will have two of these to undo, as opposed to the factory TT which has an extra mount and 3 of them. The Driveshafts have 6x 10mm allen bolts holding the driveshafts to the diff flanges per side. Forgot to mention you will also need 2x 17mm spanners for undoing the prop doughnut/flange. (At least one loooong spanner is recommended!) Some will tell you to remove the prop when changing it, but you can do it without. You just need to make sure you slide the prop onto the end of the diff flange as it goes up/in. It's worth using thread lock on any bolts that are on rotational components, i.e. diff and prop flanges. If you're going for an oem torsen diff then you need 75w-90 gear oil. Use something decent like a valvoline, royal purple or redline You can get redline, (What I use) from JJraceandrally.com on a next day service Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 A01B 4.083 Torsen diffs are hard to find, if you are planning to up your power in the near future, you would be better off fitting a T.T. auto A02B 3.769 Torsen and swapping on the N/A diff flange for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Correct and almost correct The 12mm allen bolts hold the diff to the rear diff mounts that are pressed into the subframe at the back, just in front of the petrol tank. As yours is an NA-TT you will have two of these to undo, as opposed to the factory TT which has an extra mount and 3 of them. The Driveshafts have 6x 10mm allen bolts holding the driveshafts to the diff flanges per side. Forgot to mention you will also need 2x 17mm spanners for undoing the prop doughnut/flange. (At least one loooong spanner is recommended!) Some will tell you to remove the prop when changing it, but you can do it without. You just need to make sure you slide the prop onto the end of the diff flange as it goes up/in. It's worth using thread lock on any bolts that are on rotational components, i.e. diff and prop flanges. If you're going for an oem torsen diff then you need 75w-90 gear oil. Use something decent like a valvoline, royal purple or redline You can get redline, (What I use) from JJraceandrally.com on a next day service Ok awesome thanks for the advice! I just hope that I can manage to find one and then do it soon! A01B 4.083 Torsen diffs are hard to find, if you are planning to up your power in the near future, you would be better off fitting a T.T. auto A02B 3.769 Torsen and swapping on the N/A diff flange for now. How do I go about doing that? I was hoping to just drop one out and put the other in for now and then up my power and change to a different diff all together down the line! Price also dictates things a little I suppose! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 A02B diffs are cheaper than A01B diffs and are reasonably easy to source and it would save you having to change the diff twice. The N/A prop/diff has a smaller flange than the T.T. prop/diff but the diff flanges are swappable. By the book, when swapping the flange the diff should be re-shimmed, but a short-cut is to re-fit the flange nut in exactly the same position. Failing that suggestion, get yourself a cheap as chips A01A for now and have a practice diff swap, if you are organised, the job only takes an hour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 I have just read something about a crush washer that needs to be sorted out? What is that all about? Or is that only if/when changing the flange? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Swapping the diff is a simple nuts and bolts job, changing the flange and re-shimming a diff by the book is a highly skilled job, short-cut described above uses old washer and will not be found in the WSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Ok well thankfully since starting this thread I've been speaking to Keron and he has an NA flange and an A02B so will be changing it over for me The simple nuts and bolts bit I will have a go at myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Advice given, advice accepted and no thank you, maybe I am wearing the wrong aftershave? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Oh sorry, how rude! Thank you very much fella! The advice is massively appreciated don't get me wrong I definitely know more about the mounting and changeover than I did at quarter to 11! Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Thanks for the thanks, I was beginning to suspect that your 'handle' was given to you by the Navaho. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPG Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 A01B right here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cooke Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I'll take that a01b off your hands for the right price, pm me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Yep, message Cooke - I have an A02B sorted out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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