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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

FCD Problems


Josh

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I fitted the Thor VFCC correctly and when I started the car, it wouldn't idle and kept dying. After a drive (dodgy as it died every time I stopped), it was sort of ok, so I went for a couple more to let the ECU reset itself.

 

I replaced the ECU cover and went for a drive, the engine light came on, it kept cutting out whilst driving and there was loads of black smoke, so I assumed the MAF wire had something to do with it. I checked this morning and I'd forgotten to cover the join in the wires, between the MAF side of the wire you cut and the green wire from the FCD and it had been touching the metal ECU.

 

I covered it and the car started fine but the idle was very lumpy and it was holding between 400 and 500rpm. After going for a decent drive, it all seemed ok and idled fine when stopped, but when I turn it off and turn it back on, the idle is still really lumpy and at about 4-500rpm.

 

Also, I'm not sure if the FCD is dodgy, as I went for a drive and when it hit just over 1 bar, the warning lights came on to say I'd hit fuel cut, but the car didn't cut power.

 

Anyone any idea what may be the problem? Could I have fried the FCD due to an exposed wire touching the metal ECU?

 

Thanks for any help, I was hoping the fit the boost controller today.

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you MUST solder and make very good conection when fitting a fcd other wise you get restistance through the poor conections,

make sure all your connections are perfict

 

Thank you, I'll check all the connections.

 

Is there not an adjustment on the FCD to set the point that the boost cut is activated?

 

There is, but I've read loads of threads and info about them, and the settings they're on (8 and b on the correct sides) were confirmed to be the Supra specific setting.

 

I'll have a mess with them to see if the lights are correct as shown in the manual.

 

I may remove it, put the wires back as they were and try it, then if it's all ok, I'll wire the FCD in with perfect joints and see if the problem persists.

 

Thanks :thumbs:

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Put everything back to standard and it started but cut out like yesterday, so I went for a good 20 minute drive and each time I stopped and let the revs drop, it cut out. Got back now and it's idling low, although after switching off and back on, it seems to be ok, although the revs are fluctuating a bit.

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may need to reset ecu, but you might of fried something if you was letting it earth out when fitting it, did you not disconect the batterey when installing?

 

Yeah, I did disconnect the battery. It seems weird though, as I've disconnected it a few times recently and always started first time and drove properly afterwards.

 

I started it and the exposed wire would have been touching the ECU, so maybe something's happened. Seems ok now though, so I'll leave it for a bit and see how it is :)

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Check for error codes...

 

If the boost pressure wire earthed, it will have gone super rich.. (explains the black smoke)..

 

Happened to my car once, it took some time for the car to sort itself out..

 

I'll check for any tomorrow. Thanks man. All seems ok now, though :)

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Everything's back as it was now and the car's running fine. Only problem is, when started from cold, the car idles at 1,500rpm rather than 1,100/1,200 as before. When warm, it idles at about 900rpm instead of 6-700rpm as before.

 

Will this just sort itself out after a bit more driving? I'd done about 20 miles since putting it back, so I'm surprised it's still idling high.

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my car always has idled at 1500 when first cold start up,

 

when you fit this back on just make sure your conections are all conected correctly and in the right place and you should be 1.3 bar

 

I'm worried that I'd fried the FCD as the exposed wire from the MAF sensor to the FCD shorted on the metal ECU case. I'll fit it all again this week or at the weekend and see if it's working.

Edited by Josh (see edit history)
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