pank Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Hi I've got a 6 speed manual tt and never had any problems with it, I changed the clutch a few months ago and since then it has been making a rattling noise. The noise starts when the engine is warm and you can hear it all the time apart from when I push the clutch in and then it goes completely. I've since changed the clutch again and replaced the flywheel and if anything it's slightly louder. Between 2k revs and 2.5k revs on accelerating it sounds like a grinding noise and the car vibrates a bit. I thought maybe the release bearing but from research that seems to be more of a whining noise where mine makes a rattling noise. Any suggestions on what this could be would be much appreciated. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Is it a stock clutch and flywheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 I have the exact same issue with my TT6. Changed my clutch to a TRD single plate and the car developed a rattle, the shop said the flywheel was ok so I left that.. I contacted Chris Wilson this weekend about, his diagnosis is that the gearbox internals itself are rattling. He mentioned that the Getrag is a noisy bugger, almost truck like, but a strong box. He recommended to just leave it alone. He did recommend going with Motul Gear 300 oil, I am currently running the OEM oil. Chris is a trusted source of info on this forum so I am following his advice, I will try the Motul and hope it helps quieten the box.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) Something else to look at is royal purple as people seem to rave about it, I am not promoting just saying it's worth a look. I am having a service today and doing the same as Samurai changing from V160 to motul 300 I will let you know how it goes as my gear changes have always been a bit stiff and reverse is sometimes a fiddle. Can't say mine is noisy but at low speeds it whines a bit. I have a rattle but I know it's my flywheel that is on its way out Edited May 15, 2012 by Tyson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Something else to look at is royal purple as people seem to rave about it, I am not promoting just saying it's worth a look. I am having a service today and doing the same as Samurai changing from V160 to motul 300 I will let you know how it goes as my gear changes have always been a bit stiff and reverse is sometimes a fiddle. Can't say mine is noisy but at low speeds it whines a bit. I have a rattle but I know it's my flywheel that is on its way out Interested to know the outcome on the Motul mate.. I also thought it was the flywheel, Chris reckon if the noise stops when you engage the clutch then its the internals of the box... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Might be worth checking the condition of the input shaft clutch bearing, could have been damaged and running out if true, so when the box is out of gear with clutch engaged the input shaft I's obviously spinning out of true and vibrating If left when this is the problem eventually the gearbox side input shaft bearing will suffer and premature thrust release bearing failure also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Diagnose Gearbox in neutral, rev engine, so input shaft in this instance is spinning along with clutchcage and frictinplate and flywheel obviously, take note of vibration thru rev range Then disengage clutch, this takes the spinning mass/possible runout from flywheel centre bearing of the input shaft out of the equasion, if the vibration lessens then it's flywheel area and not gearbox, so could be centre flywheel bearing damaged, clutch The release bearing wont cause vibration but may rattle a a result of out of true input shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Diagnose Gearbox in neutral, rev engine, so input shaft in this instance is spinning along with clutchcage and frictinplate and flywheel obviously, take note of vibration thru rev range Then disengage clutch, this takes the spinning mass/possible runout from flywheel centre bearing of the input shaft out of the equasion, if the vibration lessens then it's flywheel area and not gearbox, so could be centre flywheel bearing damaged, clutch The release bearing wont cause vibration but may rattle a a result of out of true input shaft Unless you get yourself a TRD gearbox mount, mine vibrates like a b@stard at around 1500rpm when stationary. It's also loud, rattley and clonky, although due to my flywheel/clutch setup it's normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 "Agricultural" gearboxes like the getrag v160 are rattly clunky boxes, I suppose without hearing this box its impossible to diagnose, but if the vibration/rattle has come on recently, or since a like for like clutch replacement then something's changed for the worse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 (edited) My car has TRD engine and gearbox mounts, at around 1500rpms it vibrates alot, the rest of the rev range its clear.. Now that I think about it, my car was rattly before the clutch change, it did get louder when I changed the clutch, but I changed the oil at the same time.. I will try the Motul first b4 changing anything else.. Edited May 15, 2012 by Samurai 20V (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulley Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Could be worth a go, the slightly stiffer engine and geabox mounting can transmit the vibrations of both more and at certain frequencies will vibrate the car/be felt more in the cabin, that's why manufacturers use softer mountings, ect ect to avoid undesirable harmonics from engine n drivetrain vibes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pank Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 It has a helix uprated clutch and a fidenza lightweight flywheel. Thanks alot for your comments, I shall try changing the oil and look at the input shaft bearing and let you know if this solves the problem. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 It has a helix uprated clutch and a fidenza lightweight flywheel. Thanks alot for your comments, I shall try changing the oil and look at the input shaft bearing and let you know if this solves the problem. Thanks again. From my understanding, the flywheel plays a big part in noise and vibration damping, when changing the to a lightened unit rattles and vibrations are expected... In my case I have the OEM flywheel, which should run smooth.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 All I can say is WOW !!! Changing gear is massively improved and my box doesn't rattle anymore !! So it was my box not the flywheel that was rattling, I recommend changing oil to as its like having a new gearbox installed I used motul 300 as mentioned above and it has transformed the box completely well worth in my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 All I can say is WOW !!! Changing gear is massively improved and my box doesn't rattle anymore !! So it was my box not the flywheel that was rattling, I recommend changing oil to as its like having a new gearbox installed I used motul 300 as mentioned above and it has transformed the box completely well worth in my opinion. Thanks for the feedback mate, will definitely use the Motul! Appreciate it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pank Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Hi did you use the 75 to 90 motul or the 75 to 140 slip diff one. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 this one http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-899-motul-gear-300-75w-90-racing-gearbox-and-differential-lubricant-100-synthetic-ester-based.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 The only reason Toyota and other makers use what is basically ATF in their manual gearboxes is to reduce drag and increase the coveted urban and whatever MPG magic numbers. I would ALWAYS sacrifice a bit of drag to the stronger shear qualities of a "proper" gearbox oil. I am loathe to add it to customer's gearboxes as if the ancient old box goes bang on the way home they'll blame the none |Toyota oil. Suffice to say if I still ran a MKIV of N/A or TT type, I'd be running a proper gear oil like Motul Gear 300. Glad it worked for you. As the box gets more tired, or when the oil gets really hot, the noises may return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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