AMG Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hi all, I have a none starting TT at the minute. Just replaced the crank sensor (big thanks to Paul Whifin for prompt delivery) but still no joy. I took it our for the first drive in about two months, started first time. Started again first time after about half an hour. Then after poppining to the shops it just sputtered and then nothing. Just turning over. I had to be rescued by the AA who reported no spark, hense the crank sensor replacement. There are no fault codes stored. Has anyone got an idea what to check or replace next? Any help or advice greatly recieved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Just tried my spare fob for the toad alarm just in case this was effecting it and still no joy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hmmm, I'd hazard a guess that it may be a faulty fuel pump, does it turn over but just not start? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan294 Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Igniter pack perhaps if there's no spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Igniter pack perhaps if there's no spark? Ahh yes, I misread, I thought you had fixed the no spark issue but it still wasn't starting. If there is still no spark then I would also say igniter pack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 I dont think i have a pump problem. Just fixed an air leak which was causing starting trouble. I will try and get hold of a know working ignitor pack then i suppose. I have not rechecked the no spark problem, just going on what AA bloke said. I did check spark when i fixed the pump problem and it was fine, in all 6. Is there anything else it could be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 has it got a greddy emanage by any chance? i know there was a bad batch around...ive had a few with the same problem.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 No mate. I am running a blitz access ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keron Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 fcd? ground wire etc...come loose? ignitor would be the first thing to check as they do go wrong... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest james mundy Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Alright fella sounds like ignitor fault. I would double check for spark after changing something tho. Also if you suspect a fuel pump fault a quick Amp draw test through the fuel pump fuse plate with the fuse removed and a good multimeter 3 to 6 amp when cranking would be a good reading, Thats if you have spark and no start good luck hope you get her going soon fella Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Thanks guys. I will double check the spark tomorrow for piece of mind and try and get my hands on an ignitor pack. If that dont fix it i am at a loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Is the crank trigger actually sending a proper sensible signal at cranking to the ecu? Is there power and ground to the igniter box? Is there power to all the coil packs with ignition on? Are the ground leads from the igniter box to the coils OK? Ground cables back to the ecu fromn the igniter OK? Is the ecu actually switching the grounds? You really need a scope for the first and the last check. It's one of those problems any competent garage should be able to identify, if not fix, in half an hour or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 I definatly have power to the ignitor. With regards to power out, going to the coils, i dont think i do. I pressume there will be a positive and negative in the larger plug (6 sets of 2) but they are not showing any voltage at all with the ignition on. I will check it at the coil plug when i get a chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 One pin of every coil should show 12v relative to ground all the time the ignition is turned to the on position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 I have power going to the connecters at the top of the coils. Would this point to it not being the ignitor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 No. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Is the crank trigger actually sending a proper sensible signal at cranking to the ecu? Is there power and ground to the igniter box? Is there power to all the coil packs with ignition on? Are the ground leads from the igniter box to the coils OK? Ground cables back to the ecu fromn the igniter OK? Is the ecu actually switching the grounds? You really need a scope for the first and the last check. It's one of those problems any competent garage should be able to identify, if not fix, in half an hour or so. The crank sensor is brand new so hopefully sending a correct signal. I definatly have power and ground to the ignitor. I have power to the coil pack connectors. Not sure how i can check the others. If it is the ignitor (it may not be before i get shot down) what goes wrong with them? Blown components or do the internals just get old and brittle then crack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 Bugger!!!!! Still wont start after a new crank sensor and a known good ignitor. Power to the ignitor and coils. Cam sensors reading 815 and 816. No error codes stored and it just turns over. What to check next i wonder I might have to admit defeat and get a garage to look at it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D8MOA Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 i would PERSONALLY be looking at the toad alarm... just bypass the two immobilizers and see what happens! i have had many issues with alarms in the past and not many issues with non start supras Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 9, 2012 Author Share Posted May 9, 2012 When you say just bypass them both, is that sn easy job? I would not have a clue where to start with that. i would PERSONALLY be looking at the toad alarm... just bypass the two immobilizers and see what happens! i have had many issues with alarms in the past and not many issues with non start supras Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D8MOA Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 somewhere on the car.. either under the steering trim or passenger foot well they will have cut into the wiring and fitted the imobilizer you would basically need to put it back to standard.. if you dont want to do it i advise an electrician to have a look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMG Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 I think i have been a bit dense here. When i said there are no error codes, i meant that the engine light is not flashing. It does not come on at all. I know it should flash constantly when there are no codes and in bunches when there are codes. What are the things that could mean it does not come on at all? Immobiliser (i have a Toad Ai606), Fried ECU?(I have a Blitz access) I have checked the circuit board and bulb and they are working perfectly. I did initially think it was dry solder but my repair is still holding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 It *PROBABLY* means there's one or more ecu grounds missing. It needs specialist attention. I am free..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 That's free to have a look, not free as in you won't get charged.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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