Nic Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) I have a spare set of stock brake calipers which I'm going to strip down and rebuild, wondering if anyone here has used DIY electrolysis to remove rust/paint from the calipers and if so how successful it was? http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,316325/highlight,/sid,07119a637095a32201eb4605a15c9723/ Edited May 3, 2012 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 24, 2012 Author Share Posted June 24, 2012 (edited) Gave this a go last week and very happy with the results The calipers started out thick with rust, paint, oil, dirt, brake dust, etc. the electrolysis stripped all this off. This is a pic of one of the calipers after a light going over with a wire brush drill bit. http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/1479/dscf0292r.jpg http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/4509/dscf0293o.jpg http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/222/dscf0294j.jpg The Process 1. Stripped down the calipers. 2. Using a power washer I cleaned off any lose crud from the calipers. 3. Took a large plastic tub and filled with a solution of Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate) and water - this acts as the Electrolyte. 4. I used an old brake disc (you can use any old piece of ferrous metal, the bigger the surface area the better) and gave it a quick going over with a wire brush to remove the surface rust - this will act as the Anode. 5. Next I placed the brake disc into tub with the top of the disc just sticking out of the top of the solution. 6. Rested a piece of wood across the top of the tub and suspended the brake caliper using wire so that it was fully immersed in the solution, making sure the caliper was close to the brake disc but not touching it. 7. I then used a battery charger and connected the positive clamp to the brake disc and the negative clamp to the brake caliper. I used the 24V charger for quicker results but it'll also work using either a 12V battery charger or battery. 8. Turned the charger on and instantly bubbles start to form in the solution. 9. Then just left it to do it's thing, it took around half a day to fully strip the rust off each piece, 10. Switched the charger off, removed the caliper, rinsed off the solution then gave it a quick going over with a wire brush drill bit. http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/707/dscf0296h.jpg Edited June 24, 2012 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbloodyturbo Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 that is pretty good looking, I'm rebuilding my rear calipers soon and I'll try this. Wouldn't mind trying it on my rad support x-member while still on the car. Infact my tank protector could use this too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Top stuff Nic.. Did you block of the holes for the bleed nipple, is that an issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted June 24, 2012 Share Posted June 24, 2012 Interesting....do the negative clamp is also fully immersed in the solution!? Caliper looks new! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 Interesting....do the negative clamp is also fully immersed in the solution!? I started with the negative clamp connected to the wire but found I was getting a better charge connecting the clamp directly to the caliper in the solution, the only drawback of doing this is that the plating on the clamp was also removed in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) Did you block of the holes for the bleed nipple, is that an issue? No need, the process doesn't effect the metal as such it just removes any oxidation from the surface which is good because it'll also clean up any internal rust on for example the bores where the pistons slide or the seats for the oil seals. Edited June 25, 2012 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 No need, the process doesn't effect the metal as such it just removes any oxidation from the surface which is good because it'll also clean up any internal rust on for example the bores where the pistons slide or the seats for the oil seals. Thats tops, wouldn't mind treating my Supra calipers to that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Samurai 20V Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Double Post.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraDan24 Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 My father in law has dabbled in this quite a bit, all of his bits have come up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted June 25, 2012 Share Posted June 25, 2012 Interesting stuff, I can find many uses for this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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