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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Just been out and tested the single, NOW WITH VIDEO'S.


little num

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Car is running the 2.5 1JZ and as both turbo's come on together there is no vsv's or silly timing like the 2JZ ecu so as far as the stock ECU in aware its still running around the stock bpu boost.

And i was looking at the AFR gauge on those runs and it was at its lowest of 10.8 so alittle rich so might just turn the boost up to lean it out some.

Also running a 5 speed so havent a clue how long its going to last, id say a week if that but i love driving it so cant help it.

As long as the AFR shows me good fueling and my EGT sender also shows 820 on full boost in 4 - 5th then i cant see how it will hurt the engine.

If i want to push the turbo to its 600hp capabilty then ill need 800cc injectors and speak to ryan about a good ecu.

 

The car will run alot better with a good ECU as id like the timing adjusted to get the full potential of both engine and turbo.

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Here are the bigger bits i bought.

 

Manifold

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/toyota-1jz-1jzgte-t3-T4-stainless-turbo-manifold-/280867729048?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4165056e98

 

 

Turbo

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261003274535?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

 

Wastegate

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110841976006?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

There was around £80 ontop of the manifold and WG due to import duties, and i got oil feedpipe and return made up using James lister motorsport and they also made the boost lines that go from WG to boost controller.

 

Also fitted some better breathers in the back of the rockers so then had those lines made up and a breather tank fitted.

Its all the little bits that add up, mikalor clamps - downpipe - air filter - 4" inlet pipe - screamer pipe- exhaust wrap - complete oil changed and a good flush (with old turbo's on).

 

I also took the complete dash out as my heater matrix was blocked and decided to throw the complete box away as it was very heavy.

Instead of the massive heater box i fitted 2 - 16 row oil coolers instead and have linked those into the water system with 2 - 8" radiator fans bolted to the bottom of them so if my windscreen steams up it clears it in seconds (bit noisy) but also helps cool the engine if it gets hot, as with my twins it was boiling the coolant and now ive gone single the temps dont rise above 87.

 

I also fitted an extra gauge, water temp gauge that fits in the bottom hose, so i can see what the temps are coming out the engine and also see what they are going back in, its good as you can see how good the rad is working and when the thermostat opens.

Edited by little num (see edit history)
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Are the coolers in the engine bay or behind the dash?

 

Behind the dash, how would they clear the windscreen otherwise lol, i bolted the coolers together and the feed into them goes to the middle of the 1, out the end of that then into the end of the 2nd cooler then out the middle back to the engine, if you look at the pics you will see my new red coolant hose goes in where the heater matrix pipes used to.

Also gets more coolant in the system.

 

Im going to weigh the car shortly as it was 1390kg with the twins and heater box, so with all that weight gone will be good to see what it weighs now.

 

like this pic i just done lol

heater.png

Edited by little num (see edit history)
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Well, I was wondering. I assumed you meant behind the dash, but doesn't that mean that without the heater box, you're going to have warm air in the cabin, all the time? Also, I wonder if it will have any effect on the dash covering, or even the wiring and delicate PCP boards that already suffer dry solder joints?

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Well, I was wondering. I assumed you meant behind the dash, but doesn't that mean that without the heater box, you're going to have warm air in the cabin, all the time? Also, I wonder if it will have any effect on the dash covering, or even the wiring and delicate PCP boards that already suffer dry solder joints?

 

Tbh mate i thought the heat would cook me in the cab BUT unless i have the fans on there is no heat at all, and all the loom has been taken out cut down to get rid of all the unwated wires and remounted 12" away from the rads.

I ve took the heater controls out as they are no longer required so the only PCB stuff is the clocks and my gauges.

The rads sit quite far back and when the fans are turned on most of the heat gets pushed up the window.

There is a electrical bypass kit i can buy to shut the rads off so if i get a problem then ill fit that as its all easy access now.

 

TRD brace was from ibrar off the forum.

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Tbh mate i thought the heat would cook me in the cab BUT unless i have the fans on there is no heat at all, and all the loom has been taken out cut down to get rid of all the unwated wires and remounted 12" away from the rads.

I ve took the heater controls out as they are no longer required so the only PCB stuff is the clocks and my gauges.

The rads sit quite far back and when the fans are turned on most of the heat gets pushed up the window.

There is a electrical bypass kit i can buy to shut the rads off so if i get a problem then ill fit that as its all easy access now.

 

TRD brace was from ibrar off the forum.

 

Sounds like a very good, well thought out setup :thumbs:

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