add heywood Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 So, like most on here, every year I spend stupid amounts of money on my car to take it (in my eyes) to the next level... From increasing power, to bodykits, to arches etc. If I decide to keep it then next year I want to maybe get the power up a bit more. The car could have been mapped to higher boost but we felt comfortable at around 630 rhhp wouldn't put "too" much stress in the stock bottom end. I see people like Hodge, Jamesy's old one running standard pistons/rods with uprated caps and bolts and getting big figures (850/900)... Just wondering is it as simple as getting billet main caps, arp main studs etc to make it cope with 850 ish...? I could then increase boost and see if I could get maybe 850 bhp. The head is a race spec from Dude, with 280's and uprated springs, I have arp head studs already, twin walbro's (the lines would need improving). I undertand there are LOTS of other supporting mods but the car has most (if not all) off the top of my head that it might need... Any input from you guys please. Also maybe turbo choice for 850/900 bhp incase I change that at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 Big difference between RHHP and RWHP, no offernce to jamesy or hodge but them cars are never near that claimed flywheel bhp. Billet main caps i dont think are needed till 1000+ real bhp. Go over 2bar boost and i would be fitting L19 head studs. Billet 6766 have put down 950 rwhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
add heywood Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 So would I benefit from stronger main studs...? Would this allow to safely increase the engine to around 800 fwhp? Will be changing the turbo, 6766 divided with the larger a/r looks pretty good for what they are... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rsand85 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Im also quite interested in this topic at the moment as to what crank/rods/pistons those who are running the high end Hp figures are using Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamesy Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 if you want a quick and easy way of getting it Ad i am selling my uprated SRD short block and SRD stage 2 racing head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
add heywood Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 if you want a quick and easy way of getting it Ad i am selling my uprated SRD short block and SRD stage 2 racing head Lol shameless plug Although I already have a built head so was just trying to research if it could be done without rods/pistons... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 So would I benefit from stronger main studs...? Would this allow to safely increase the engine to around 800 fwhp? Will be changing the turbo, 6766 divided with the larger a/r looks pretty good for what they are... You dont need the main studs BUT they are nice to have, 2J's dont suffer bottom end problems, no need for a head either till you want over 1000 hp, I would just put ARP rod bolts in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 You can change the rod bolts without pulling the head as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 (edited) Turbo choice I have a little 67 coming that should do over 850 no problem and spool like a Whippet on crack. Edited April 15, 2012 by Lbm Sweary stuff. I prefer my description. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
add heywood Posted April 15, 2012 Author Share Posted April 15, 2012 You can change the rod bolts without pulling the head as well Well it's got the head off you already on it... Sounds good to just do the rod bolts for peace of mind, then get a faster spooling turbo and aim for 850 bhp, get a bigger intake and TB and sort the fuel lines out properly (to dual feed on the rail). What labour costs for that Dude...? pm if prefered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 You again dont NEED a TB and intake Add, but nice to have, I would say a Greedy and diff turbo would see 850 with Quicker spool quite easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Could you tone down the swe**ing please dude? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Could you tone down the swe**ing please dude? No p********m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Turism0 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 have you looked at the Billet 6466 that's just come out? "This same turbo made 818whp @ 36psi on Reid&39;s completely STOCK longblock 2JZ Supra during our testing and has the potential to make 900whp while still spooling like a 62mm turbo!! " Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobD Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Where did Dude swear? :S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Where did Dude swear? :S It's been edited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 It's been edited. It was a lie !!!!It was never so !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobD Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 It's been edited. O right, I was looking I thought you were on about the whippet on crack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbm Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 O right, I was looking I thought you were on about the whippet on crack That was my work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobD Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 That was my work good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rsand85 Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 so what power will a standard crank take?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
add heywood Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 so what power will a standard crank take?? 1000+ bhp... Crank is the least of the troublesome bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
add heywood Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 You again dont NEED a TB and intake Add, but nice to have, I would say a Greedy and diff turbo would see 850 with Quicker spool quite easily Yeah, I think that's the plan for next year if it stays. TB and intake to make the engine look nicer (and to add a bit extra hp), and a faster low down spooling turbo. I like the sound of these small turbo's making 800+bhp amd being on full boost around 4k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ricky49 Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 If your going to do the rod bolts it will do no harm fitting the head and main bolts. I will be ordering the new 6766CEA turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest j2x Posted April 16, 2012 Share Posted April 16, 2012 my view is the initial limit is the rods, maybe the L19 will come in handy depending on boost, but everything else (caps etc) comes later the rods are marginal somewhere up around the 850rwhp mark on a dyno dynamics (rwhp not bhp) in shootout6 mode, ie higher than most people think. maybe a little more, depending on the balance of boost/revs used to get there. mine did within a hair of that on the factory short motor without issue. oem mains caps start cracking around the 1000rwhp mark. so at the point where you go into it for the rods you may as well also do L19 head studs, billet mains and pistons. youre in the clear til pretty big power at that point. unless youve overcapitalised, by then youre running a t6 frame 80mm+ turbo spinning ~9k ballpark to properly use it and your next problem will be keeping the oil up to it under sustained high rpm. thats claimed a couple motors at the tx mile turning 92XX rpm through the traps in 5th, the solution being dry sump. but in the real world theres obviously limited opportunity for that sort of extreme sustained 5th/6th gear stuff, so most people will never get there. below the gasket, good pistons/h-beam rods/billet mains caps will see you through just about anything. spend any spare cash on frequent oil changes and lightening other fast moving stuff like shimless buckets, they save a heap of weight. people often overlook maintenance on these cars in favour of the next modification, that can make for more hassle in the long run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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