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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

engine build


Guest Rsand85

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Guest Rsand85

quick question folks as im struggling to find a TT block to start an engine build would an n/a block do as a starting point for a decent single turbo engine??cheers

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only difference in the bottom end is the lack of oil squirters in the GE's and the pistons are different apart from that the rods and crank are the same as the TT engine. I'm going to be rebuilding my GE bottom end with ACL bearings ARP Studs and JE 86.5mm Pistons and Eagle rods this will easily be good for upwards of 800hp.

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Guest Rsand85
only difference in the bottom end is the lack of oil squirters in the GE's and the pistons are different apart from that the rods and crank are the same as the TT engine. I'm going to be rebuilding my GE bottom end with ACL bearings ARP Studs and JE 86.5mm Pistons and Eagle rods this will easily be good for upwards of 800hp.

 

i will be using after market crank and pistons i was just wondering if the bare block could be used instead of a TT block you recon so??

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why anybody would spend big money on a tt block to strip and build is beond me .

 

if you want to buy an engine you never intend to open and you want to run a fair amount of boost then yes, buy a gte block.

 

but the block itself is the same. there are variations in castings between blocks in ge and gte form but the fundimentals are the same. in the engine codes the 2jz is the block , the gte and ge specifies the difference in the head.

 

now you can buy a bare na block for say £50 or a bare gte block for circa £800.

 

buy buying the gte block you are basicly paying someone £750 of your hard earned and heavily taxed to drill and tap 6 holes. because thats the only difference. people talk of an extra water way on the manifold side for extra cooling but this water way exist in the head, not the block im sure sure if you have the required skill to fully build an engine, drilling and taping 6 holes in a pre set cast oil way should be a walk in the park , and even if you cant do that, any good engineering workshop will sort it with no issue.

 

so my sumarry;

 

if you inteld to buld a short block from scratch and you fork out big money for a a 2jz block from a gte you are ;

A. too ritch to care

B. crazy

c. stupid.

 

that is all

Edited by dr_jekyll (see edit history)
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Guest Rsand85
why anybody would spend big money on a tt block to strip and build is beond me .

 

if you want to buy an engine you never intend to open and you want to run a fair amount of boost then yes, buy a gte block.

 

but the block itself is the same. there are variations in castings between blocks in ge and gte form but the fundimentals are the same. in the engine codes the 2jz is the block , the gte and ge specifies the difference in the head.

 

now you can buy a bare na block for say £50 or a bare gte block for circa £800.

 

buy buying the gte block you are basicly paying someone £750 of your hard earned and heavily taxed to drill and tap 6 holes. because thats the only difference. people talk of an extra water way on the manifold side for extra cooling but this water way exist in the head, not the block im sure sure if you have the required skill to fully build an engine, drilling and taping 6 holes in a pre set cast oil way should be a walk in the park , and even if you cant do that, any good engineering workshop will sort it with no issue.

 

so my sumarry;

 

if you inteld to buld a short block from scratch and you fork out big money for a a 2jz block from a gte you are ;

A. too ritch to care

B. crazy

c. stupid.

 

that is all

 

man after my own heart!! that's the kind of answers i like straight to the point. And exactly what i wanted to know!cheers

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why anybody would spend big money on a tt block to strip and build is beond me .

 

if you want to buy an engine you never intend to open and you want to run a fair amount of boost then yes, buy a gte block.

 

but the block itself is the same. there are variations in castings between blocks in ge and gte form but the fundimentals are the same. in the engine codes the 2jz is the block , the gte and ge specifies the difference in the head.

 

now you can buy a bare na block for say £50 or a bare gte block for circa £800.

 

buy buying the gte block you are basicly paying someone £750 of your hard earned and heavily taxed to drill and tap 6 holes. because thats the only difference. people talk of an extra water way on the manifold side for extra cooling but this water way exist in the head, not the block im sure sure if you have the required skill to fully build an engine, drilling and taping 6 holes in a pre set cast oil way should be a walk in the park , and even if you cant do that, any good engineering workshop will sort it with no issue.

 

so my sumarry;

 

if you inteld to buld a short block from scratch and you fork out big money for a a 2jz block from a gte you are ;

A. too ritch to care

B. crazy

c. stupid.

 

that is all

 

You also need to drill an oil gallery connection across the front of the GE block as the oil gallery where you drill and tap the 6 holes into for the oil squirters is dry until you do so.

Edited by V8KILR (see edit history)
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Guest Rsand85
You also need to drill an oil gallery connection across the front of the GE block as the oil gallery where you drill and tap the 6 holes into for the oil squirters is dry until you do so.

 

has anybody actually done this ??

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Guest Rsand85
Thank you, I was being polite not including that third option. ;)

 

ha ha it was a rather blonde moment however!!what i was trying to say was is there a guide on it any where?as ive never worked on a TT block to know the deference dude

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has anybody actually done this ??

 

I actually ended up feeding the oil squirter gallery from the outside as I had already drilled and tapped one of the blank plugs that normally feed to the twin turbos, as this is the same oil gallery. The feed is by an exterior oil line from the other side of the block and I also have a seperate one from the other side of the block for the turbo. I had to do it this way as I discovered the hard way that this oil gallery is dry after the engine was assembled and in the car. :(

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Guest Rsand85
They are probably not needed if using stock twins and you never race the car but good insurance if you race or have a single turbo conversion.

 

car is for track only not fussed about running it on the road so prob worth my bother to fit them

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car is for track only not fussed about running it on the road so prob worth my bother to fit them

 

If car is for track use then I definitely recommend having the oil squirters as they squirt oil under the pistons and keep their temperature down.

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