FaithStalker Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 After leaving the Supra out all night i drove it early in the morning to find that the front passanger brake calliper seemed to be stuck ON causing a judder when driving, i stopped, give the brake pedal a few good pumps , and everything was ok again......... not had any problems since - just seems to be overnight (it was a bloody cold night!) do i need to grease something up??? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 I would take the caliper off and try to get some WD40 under the rubber boots that protect the piston then get some one to pump the brake a couple of times so the piston comes out (only a couple of times) then force it back in , repeat this a couple of times and it should be fine . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Wouldn't that be better done with brake cleaner or brake fluid!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbeh Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Mine stick in the mornings, I was trying to figure out what it was, as theres a clunk from the wheels when i move off the driveway. Suggested pumping of the pedal before moving is advised then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Originally posted by Bobbeh Mine stick in the mornings, I was trying to figure out what it was, as theres a clunk from the wheels when i move off the driveway. Suggested pumping of the pedal before moving is advised then? That's probably caused by 1 pad beinging stuck or the handbrake inside the rear disc sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbeh Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Yeah, that'd be right. Only seems bad during the cold snaps though. So, is WD40 the answer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Brake cleaner is ok but it evaporates and doesnt lubricate the piston in the caliper , we allways use WD40 or similar otherwise in a few days youve got a sticky caliper again . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 But if the chrome has gone or is going from the piston the game is up...no point faffing about. I wouldn't have thought WD-40 is suitable on a brake system which can hit over 400degC. You can get referbished calipers if necessary....not quite as expensive as new ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Alex WD40 is only £1.50. I've had a BMW on a forcourt for a couple of months , picked it up the other day , the caliper was so badly stuck that a mile up the road the car would hardly move and the brake disc was glowing (in the day) , let it cool down and did the procedure i posted , result perfect it drives a dream and i even tested it on the MOT brake rollers , perfect balance , but you are correct if the chromes flaking its tie to replace , especially in a car like the supra , some times though its just a build up of crap and WD40 is a brilliant cleaner/lubricator , if it unsticks the caliper then the car is driveable till a better solution is found . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminator Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 Faith... With the Jap fronts it may be the pins conecting the two halves of the caliper not the pistons. They can be prone to sticking. I am not sure if the pins are included in the Jap referb kit, but if your callpier has stuck once, a refurb would give peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted February 17, 2003 Share Posted February 17, 2003 WD40 ? I stopped spraying this on every little problem after I found out it can damage certain types of rubber, I,ve had it rot pneumatic seals at work (thought it was good maintenance) after spraying around them !!. It solves many problems but think twice when rubber seals/o-rings are involved. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FaithStalker Posted February 18, 2003 Author Share Posted February 18, 2003 Thanks for the advice everyone, I'll stick with the WD40 seeing as it has only happened once (while on the drive on a very cold night) - if it happens again i'll try and pinpoint where looks "sticky". If its giving me plenty of jip i'll get the refurb kit and sort it out, ....although i wonder if it will be covered under the warranty oh look - a pig flying across the window !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Use a little copper brake grease if you have a sliding caliper that is sticking (ie J-spec), but it's quite likely that the only long-term solution is to strip and rebuild the calipers. We are talking about your Supra's brakes here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra_Al Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 ......had to service the 'sliders' on my Sup as both the fronts had siezed! Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Originally posted by John Packham Use a little copper brake grease if you have a sliding caliper that is sticking (ie J-spec), but it's quite likely that the only long-term solution is to strip and rebuild the calipers. We are talking about your Supra's brakes here! I was advised by CW to use CV joint grease for the sliders. The black stuff.....erm I'll pull the can out if the car latter. CW said not to use Copper grease as it cant take the heat and keep moving. I don't know about the chemicals/physics of the two lubricants so don't ask me to explain why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Never had a problem. I could look at the melting points. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need4Speed Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 My CV joint grease claims a max working temp of 125°C whereas my copper grease claims 1350°C. That's a big difference. I imagine CW sees an issue other than melting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispazzi Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 The other issue with WD40 is that it is a penetrating oil and when you spray it at one thing it will manage to creep all over the place into other bits that you didn't want it to. I don't know what benefit it would do penetrating past the piston seals and into your brake fluid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Chris if it gets in your brake fluid youve got bigger problems anyway , ive never heard of WD reacting with any rubber before , but just for the record a brake system is hydraulic and works on the principle that a liquid cant be compressed , threfore in theory you could use water as brake fluid , of course corrosion would soon result but it would work , WD is much thinner than brake fluid so if the wd could get past the piston it would follow that all the brake fluid would be long since gone and you would be in a wall , best bet is all pop down toyota and buy new calipers cause all the mechanics all over the country must be wrong freeing off stuck calipers . John:stupid: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 I don't know WD's affect on all rubber but another example was a large nail gun we had, kept pissing out air every few months then the guy who came in to take a look asked what oil we used on the business end, we told him a squirt of WD40 and he said that was the problem. We used light compressor oil after and had no problems!! This as well as what I have heard from other engineers combined with my own experiences at work make me cautious when using near seals and o-rings. Not very scientific I know but there you go. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Posted February 18, 2003 Share Posted February 18, 2003 Oh, my view of my local Toyota 'mechanics' is that they and many dealer mechanics are only really 'Fitters' these days with very little in the way of workshop tooling ie presses etc and because of their bonuses they tend to chuck things away and charge for a new unit rather than repair (most haven't got the skills to repair anyway!) My local lot wanted to charge for new calipers after trying to smash and burn the seized pins out and it was only after I went ballistic and suggested they sub it to someone with a press that the pins were removed and replaced at a fraction of the cost. So, the fact that they will spray WD over the entire car to 'cure' a problem don't convince me. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 19, 2003 Share Posted February 19, 2003 Whatever , the point is faithstalker asked what he could do about sticky calipers and the point is they need to be freed off , we personally dont use WD i used it as an example but there are many silicon based available in the trade that are rubber etc friendly, really it boils down to whoever is going to start playing with brakes should be able to diagnose a problem and decide on the correct fix (these are brakes we are talking about and quite important). Heres an example happened to me last week. Picked up old car , not been driven for 4 years get down road (car rolled freely when picked up) smoke pouring out of front wheel, jack up car remove wheel /pads (not stuck) test to see if pistons stuck first piston moves easily in, other piston comes out at the same time (both pistons moving freely) but jam one piston so it is in and the other is rock solid and cant be pushed back into the caliper . This is a common problem see if you can figure out a likley cause , if not you should really get someone else to check out your brakes . John:flame Dev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.