Mike B Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Hello All, Currently in the process of removing, regressing and refitting all the cam adjusters on the car before I take it to get the geo set properly. All the fronts came apart easily - have coated in copper grease (should this suffice?). The rears however are a different matter... all of them are stuck! Last year I had movement on 3 of 4, but this year, none! I have also sheared one of the cam adjuster bolts trying to get the locking nut off the end... Rign now if no success on attempt 2 I'm looking at having to cut these out and source replacements. I will spray them with penetrating oil for the next 10 days and try again, but failing that, it's cutting time. Have any of you had experience of this? and any top tips to offer? It also looks like I will have to separate the arms from the hubs where the white arrows are.. any top tips for these too? warm regards, mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 (edited) If their seized anything like mine and it looks like they are then its out with the cutting discs im afraid. I had this problem but was on the off side front lower arm which we had to cut off. A ball joint splitter on the arrowed parts, once you've got the nuts off to get the ball joint out the hub Edited March 5, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 im curantly going through the same problem, as these cars are getting to an age where this is a problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Ball joint splitter should see you right at the hub end as Dunk said. What is stuck on the others - is it the nuts or is it that you can't get the bolts out through the bushes once the nuts are off? Don't grease the actual threads when you put them back together. Wire brush them and clean them but avoid copper grease or else you will run the chance of stripping a thread with the high torque numbers you need to make them up to....with the grease they'll actually wind up more than they're designed to (due to the lower friction) and can strip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 I would avoid using a ball joint splitter on the hub/arm ball joints unless really necessary. A split dust cover is now an MOT fail, so try using sharp shocks with a hammer on the hub where the ball joint goes through. 9/10 times this will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Doesnt matter if your replacing the arm though, seeing as the bush will more than likely be scrap as the adjuster is seized solid inside the bush Also you might need to seriously whack the hub to shift the ball joint which isnt a great idea in my opionion, especially on the ball joint thats on the track control arm as where this fits to the hub is easily bent. If you are trying to save the arm you can get new ball joint covers if required Edited March 6, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Hi All, Thanks for the tips.. Yup, I will have a go when I get back to the car at the end of the month - a friend is lubing them every day :-) fingers crossed... I had hoped to be bake to prise enough of a gap in the subframe to get a cutting blade into said gap to cut only the adjuster bolt, thus saving the bush. This way, when I get the arm off I can use a press to try and get the severed adjuster bolt out of the centre of the bush. It may well be the case that I have to get new arms though. Anyone got any top tips as to where you have bought these from? I've been off the scene for a while... I would avoid using a ball joint splitter on the hub/arm ball joints unless really necessary. A split dust cover is now an MOT fail, so try using sharp shocks with a hammer on the hub where the ball joint goes through. 9/10 times this will work. yeah I split a one on the front some time ago.. nightmare. Also you might need to seriously whack the hub to shift the ball joint which isnt a great idea in my opionion, especially on the ball joint thats on the track control arm as where this fits to the hub is easily bent. If you are trying to save the arm you can get new ball joint covers if required I sincerely hope I don't damage the hub :-S.. what do you mean by ball joint covers, may I ask...? Also the best grease to put on these cams? is copper grease a bit lack lustre.. I want these things to not stick in the future.. what is the best grease to use? Lithium? tnx again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 (edited) Toyota for the arms or possibly http://www.toyodiy.com Copper slip on the shank of the eccentric adjuster will be fine, thats what i used a few years ago. The bush will be more than likely scrap if the the adjuster is that seized inside it, i just bit the bullet and bought new arms, adjusters etc The ball joint cover is the rubber boot that is on the ball joint arrowed in yellow If you use Toyota ask for as much discount as you can get, be cheeky The last prices i had were Rear lower arm no 1 (track control arm) .. £120.52 + vat Rear lower arm no 2 (camber control arm) £192.37 + vat Strut rod .......................................... £111.38 + vat Edited March 6, 2012 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 What is stuck on the others - is it the nuts or is it that you can't get the bolts out through the bushes once the nuts are off? I have all the nuts off, though one did shear the bolt.. (first pictures) All of the bolts are ceased in.. Don't grease the actual threads when you put them back together. Wire brush them and clean them but avoid copper grease or else you will run the chance of stripping a thread with the high torque numbers you need to make them up to....with the grease they'll actually wind up more than they're designed to (due to the lower friction) and can strip. really? but grease the shaft for sure... just not the nut you suggest.. The bush will be more than likely scrap if the the adjuster is that seized inside it yeah, I hear you.. would still like to try and save them, or at least try. Thanks for all the prices too.. good to know when i go shopping! M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 Find attached a pic of what was required to remove my suspension when a bolt was stuck in place A plasma cutter was needed in the end, good luck on thinking you can save the suspension arms, never mind the bush Comically, once the sleeve was out the bush, the bolt slid out unharmed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thankfully all my fronts are 100%, I had to replace both front arms for the car was bought from terry with poorly fitting poly bushes that were so loose it was a joke. It's a challenge I am actually looking forward to, but may well end up in brute force and slicing.. Not relishing the cost of a new set of arms though :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 On all of my supras (3 now) the bolts have been seized, tbh its easier to remove the complete rear subframe to do the job as its awkward to get the grinder in doing it on the car, also you will need a very large press to get the cut off bolts out the arms, we broke a 50 ton fly press and a heavy duty vice trying to remove bolts, i found the best way is to physically knock the bolts out using the biggest hammer you can find and a brave friend to hold the arm/bush on top of a socket so you dont damage the bush.good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted March 6, 2012 Share Posted March 6, 2012 ive just removed all my arms from my l reg car and they were a bit tight but all undone fine.i have a pile of nuts and bolts from the rear so should have that sheared one here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike B Posted March 23, 2012 Author Share Posted March 23, 2012 Update... I have tried grinding the heads off the adjusters - my plan was to make a tool to extract the bots from the threaded side with a custom tool, but the nuts are so hard and so inaccessible I decided that I was wasting my life and made for the grinder and a cutting disk. From two are off.. but I need a slightly bigger disk for the rear as they are more inaccessible. I tried a reciprocating metal blade and saw, didn't touch the stainless bolt.. just blunted. So now I need to find 4 arms, or 4 replacement bushes.. and 4 adjusters.. I hear someone may have used soarer bushes from toyota to replace. The thought of forking out £450 plus to remedy some ceased bolts does not fill me with joy... I'm on the hunt now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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