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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Track Day Setup


Jellybean

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Hey

 

I was out in a R33 GTR yesterday, it was very twitch(dangerously Twitchy) like it was plotting to kill me;I took out my 998cc polo after and it was more fun!! It just got me thinking how the Supra would hold up on track considering the GTR is 4WD. I am not out to be break any records just want to enjoy a day out , hopefully without any mechanical issues.

 

 

Any advice on setting up the car based on Spec? and any advice on Preperation

 

  • 2jzGTE
  • 25 Row oil cooler (Sandwidtch Plate Installed too)
  • Project Mu SCR Front rotors
  • Endless CCX pads all round
  • Fuchs ProS 10W50
  • TRD Bilstein/TRD Springs (Shock is fixed rate by Bilstein; springs Front K=107.8N/mm; Rear K=92.1N/mm)
  • 19 inch Wheels (245 & 275 Rear)
  • Carbonetic LSD (1.5 or 2 way I dont know)

 

 

I am looking for some advice on

 

Tyre Pressure

Oil Temps (Should you really have an Oil temp guage?; I run Water Temp, boost and Oil pressure guages)

Will 10W50 suffice?

What should you check after a few laps?

What fluids do you need to change after a track day?

 

Track is Mondello, Kildare , Ireland

 

National Circuit

http://www.mondello.ie//images/data/gallery/217_small_1272555441.png

 

 

oZ9xPvibq98

Edited by Jellybean (see edit history)
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I didn't add any extra guages when i did my track days, i did a brake fluid change and new pads and just checked the

other oil levels and off we went :) (Diff, gearbox and engine)

 

Take a tyre pressure gauge and pump and check your pressures after a couple of laps, not sure

on the ideal pressure but i kept mine at 36 front and rear when they were hot !

 

I also gave the car a lap to cool down before coming into the pits and parking up

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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I didn't add any extra guages when i did my track days, i did a brake fluid change and new pads and just checked the

other oil levels and off we went :) (Diff, gearbox and engine)

 

Take a tyre pressure gauge and pump and check your pressures after a couple of laps, not sure

on the ideal pressure but i kept mine at 36 front and rear when they were hot !

 

I also gave the car a lap to cool down before coming into the pits and parking up

 

Cool thanks , that what we where doing with the GTR

 

Did you leave her running in the pits or is the cool down lap enough?

 

Do you do a full fluid change after or is it based on condition of the Fluid?

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I noticed the boiled power steering on another guys car , what can you do about that? I presume it is not good

 

Fit a better power steering cooler, the stock unit is pretty poor.

 

If you have an auto rad on a manual car you could use the built in gearbox cooler, failing that just fit a simple cooler from somewhere like speedflow or thinkauto, if your not in a rush there are loads for sale on summit racings website ;)

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Stock 17s or correctly setup 18s for me, the advantage of 18s is larger brakes up front and availability of used slicks ;)

 

In the US some run 18s up front and 17s on the rear, not sure if anyone has bothered here though.

 

Which ever wheel you go for get the lightest you can afford.

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after your day you will need to change brake fluid for sure

first time i done mine had to change discs pads fluid,and had to do a caliper refurb

before the next time added dot5 fluid,brake servo stopper was alot better

 

yeah cool down laps before coming in would be nice, extra gauges you wont have time to look at unless on a straight and even then your be going to fast to want to take your eyes off the road.

i have heard that you shouldnt put your hand brake on once you come in as it can whorp the discs

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after your day you will need to change brake fluid for sure

first time i done mine had to change discs pads fluid,and had to do a caliper refurb

before the next time added dot5 fluid,brake servo stopper was alot better

 

yeah cool down laps before coming in would be nice, extra gauges you wont have time to look at unless on a straight and even then your be going to fast to want to take your eyes off the road.

i have heard that you shouldnt put your hand brake on once you come in as it can whorp the discs

 

The handbrake thing is so the pads aren't touching the hot disk which can boil the fluid.

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I never use the handbrake when back in the pits, just take something to chock the wheels to stop the car moving, its also good to move the car slightly so you dont have same area of pad and disc together, this will help prevent warping.

 

Cool down laps with only very light braking is a very good idea as others have recommended, just keep well out of the way from others on hot laps.

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after your day you will need to change brake fluid for sure

first time i done mine had to change discs pads fluid,and had to do a caliper refurb

before the next time added dot5 fluid,brake servo stopper was alot better

 

yeah cool down laps before coming in would be nice, extra gauges you wont have time to look at unless on a straight and even then your be going to fast to want to take your eyes off the road.

i have heard that you shouldnt put your hand brake on once you come in as it can whorp the discs

 

I didn't have to change brake fluid or the pads, discs or refurb the calipers !

 

Dot 5 is also silicon based and doesn't mix with Glycol based Dot 5.1 or Dot 3 or 4 and can be bad for abs

systems as it lacks the lubricity of glycol based brake fluid.

 

I use Motul RBF600 which works really well and isn't very expensive.

 

 

Silicone Brake Fluids

 

In years past, all brake fluids were glycol. Then D.O.T. 5, a silicone fluid having a higher temperature rating, emerged, initially to meet the higher boiling point requirements of racing use. (Race car brake systems include oil-cooler-like heat exchangers and ceramic pads.) Silicone fluid was able to withstand the most heat of any brake fluid, so it earned a reputation as a racing brake fluid. However, silicone brake fluid has properties very different from glycol fluid, and has its own pros and cons. On the advantage side, silicone fluid will not harm paint or plastic, and does not aggressively attract additional moisture as glycol fluid does. On the disadvantage side however, silicone fluid aerates easily. Harley-Davison, one of the sole current OEM users of silicone fluid, warns buyers to let the fluid sit at least an hour before using it. The trip home in the saddlebag is enough to aerate silicone brake fluid until it looks like a freshly poured soft drink. Silicone fluid is also slightly more compressible than glycol fluid, does not change color to tip the user to its moisture content, and worst of all, neither accepts or disperses moisture, making systems using it more corrosion prone, and requiring much more frequent fluid changes. Silicone brake fluid also lacks glycol fluid's naturally occuring lubricity, making it incompatible with the mechanical valving in some antilock braking systems.

295brakefluidscomparedBobOwen.jpg

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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The handbrake thing is so the pads aren't touching the hot disk which can boil the fluid.

 

The handbrake doesn't operate the pads, the handbrake operates on shoes on an internal

drum machined inside the brake disc on a mkiv ;)

 

If you were going to boil the fluid that would have happened whilst out on track which i suffered

on my first track day due to going out with 4 year old brake fluid which had lots of moisture in it

which boiled easily under heavy braking at Donington.

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I didn't have to change brake fluid or the pads, discs or refurb the calipers !

 

 

Dot 5 is also silicon based and doesn't mix with Glycol based Dot 5.1 or Dot 3 or 4 and can be bad for abs

systems as it lacks the lubricity of glycol based brake fluid.

 

I use Motul RBF600 which works really well and isn't very expensive.

 

i did i found that i had a siezing caliper,unrelated to the op but can still happen,after 4 hard laps had some very serious brake fad then had to cool down for about the same again, at the end of the day just depends on condition after use if its okay its okay mine was not and its always sergested to change brake fluid after a track day if your giving it the beans,

and sorry it was a 5.1 i put in i think i cant even remember now

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i did i found that i had a siezing caliper,unrelated to the op but can still happen,after 4 hard laps had some very serious brake fad then had to cool down for about the same again, at the end of the day just depends on condition after use if its okay its okay mine was not and its always sergested to change brake fluid after a track day if your giving it the beans,

and sorry it was a 5.1 i put in i think i cant even remember now

 

Doing a track day shouldn't cause you any problems if the braking system is working properly

with fluid thats not too old and calipers that aren't in need of a refurb before you get there.

 

I did lots of laps round Silverstone and Donington and had no issues with the brakes, i learnt my lesson

after doing my first track day with old brake fluid and 3/4's worn out brake pads.

 

Other than Motul RBF600 fluid and braided lines my brakes were totally stock UK

set up

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Smaller wheels equal cheaper tyres.

 

I'd rather buy 17" tyres with a sane profile than 19" rubber bands.

 

Stock uk front size 235 x 17's Kumhos are £80

 

My fronts are 255 x 19's and Kumhos are £100 so as long as you

arent doing trackdays on the top brands then its not so bad.

 

Or get part worns from Germany :)

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