Scott Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I love this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I think it was your advice that made his mind up to do it. You worded it so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 If you turn the car upside down and then rev it you'll probably be able to hear it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 We run the cars like this at the pod to warm the trans but you must have someone in the car in case it comes off the jack/stands, you wont get any load hence prob no boost so a bit of a waste of time, like JP says thats the best way of finding this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 If you turn the car upside down and then rev it you'll probably be able to hear it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 I knew everyone would say all the coments which they did lol thaught others may have tried. Scott it cant be heard when stationary, only when driving on negative boost. Jp, its more of a whistle than a boost leak. Like turbo spool noise but louder Il have a good look over it and make a boost leak tester too im surr il find it. Will report back after ive worked on it satuarday as im up gloucester all week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 There is no higher level of "negative boost" than at idle. As soon as you start to rev the boost will rise to zero before coming on boost. You won't hear anything more when revving the engine compared to having it off the deck and driving... as there is no load. However, you seem intent on listening to nothing anyone says to you, regardless of how reasoned their responses are to you, so I will just wish you the best of luck with it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Haven't you ever heard of double-negative boost Scott?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Haven't you ever heard of double-negative boost Scott?! I think I recall it being mentioned in the past. Is that not what allows the plane to take off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 I think I recall it being mentioned in the past. Is that not what allows the plane to take off? I think it is, sir. But not before the conveyor explodes in a cloud of shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 i think it is, sir. But not before the conveyor explodes in a cloud of shame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 There is no higher level of "negative boost" than at idle. As soon as you start to rev the boost will rise to zero before coming on boost. You won't hear anything more when revving the engine compared to having it off the deck and driving... as there is no load. However, you seem intent on listening to nothing anyone says to you, regardless of how reasoned their responses are to you, so I will just wish you the best of luck with it all. Jp just sugested the innertube trick. I said il try that. Dude says he has the car on axle stands, nobody mocks that. When the noise occurs on negative boost, i mean when driving and the boost gauge is just under 0 edit: im pritty sure it was making the noise before 0, maybe it was just on zero or sllightly over. Il report back with exact figures sat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Style Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 If you turn the car upside down and then rev it you'll probably be able to hear it better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Jp just sugested the innertube trick. I said il try that. Dude says he has the car on axle stands, nobody mocks that. When the noise occurs on negative boost, i mean when driving and the boost gauge is just under 0 It's not what you plan to do that people are mocking mate, it's your reasoning behind what you are planning. You haven't put any logic into your thinking regarding your method of fault finding. People have told you reasons why your plan won't work but you are intent on not listening. Why ask a question on here if you aren't going to listen to anyone anyway? Show me one response in this thread that has said it's safe. If you don't give a damn that it's not safe why ask in the first place? The same goes for your reasoning behind lifting the car up in the first place, it's pointless but you carry on regardless in blind ignorance to what people are saying to you. JPs advice is sound, and I'm happy to see that you are doing something that is at least logical to begin with. Where you got the idea of stilting the car, firing it in gear and Ferris Buellering it till the leak presents itself I will never know though. If you had searched, or even asked on here, how to diagnose a leak in the sequental system the first thing mentioned would probably be a bean can and a tyre inner tube. You're like the nutty professor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Lol i suddenly thaught it was an amazing idea pmsl. was your post about it being not tha bad that convinced me to do it. Il just have a good looksy ang remove and refit all the fmic piping, check the intake pipes and sequential piping again tar for input all :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 have a look at your first turbo blades while your at it, and have you removed your duck tape bodge in your testing quest? have you tried the soapy water on joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted March 3, 2012 Author Share Posted March 3, 2012 update: done a propper boost leak test today. removed air filter & blocked off. put a tyre valve to the intake manifold. had a compresser, filled the engine to aroun 0.5Bar (thats all it would hold) put soapy water around all the IC pipes, dv, all fine. put some over where the throttle body connects to the intake manifold, leaking there also leaking where the intake manifold connects to the runners, and where the idle valve connects to the intake manifold. this is because i have had all the manifold off recently, to clean & paint it up. PS no air was leaking where the duck tape covered the dv return pipe. wil get a nice rubber one though. i will admit now the ferris beuler method woudnt have been pritty dumb glad i know where the leak is from, i re-used the existing metal gaskets, is this the reason why its leaking air? or have i not got the manifold sitting/tightened unevenly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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