halllon Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hi, We are building a 3.4 stroker motor utilizing a Brian Crower billet crank. The motor is for a drift application and will see its share of redline action, but we will run stock redline (7200 rpm), and we are limiting boost to about 25psi/1.7 bars running E85, so it will not be tuned beyond it's potential by any means. Do we need the MVP girdle/ARP studs for longevity, or is that overkill at this point? How about the ARP studs on their own? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Can I ask what turbo Fredric? at 1.7 bar im guessing it will be pretty big to make that sort of power. 850whp is a lot of power, id go with the gridle or billet mains i think. Keep up the great driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halllon Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Hi Jamie, thanks for chiming in! Turbo sizing is yet to be determined with COMP Turbo. We ran 640 whp with stock VVTi cams and stock crank at 1.6 bar, and did simulate this new build up front (hence the power figure), but I do agree it sounds optimistic. We're not pushing for a specific power lever, but we will limit boost for drivability and longevity. Do you run either the girdle or the billet mains? I have seen some posts re: the girdle that says the washer have sunk in causing irregular torque readings. I have been very happy with everything MVP in the past, though, just want to touch base with someone that has tested the girdle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Yeah i run Billet mains in mine, as long as you have a company that is good at line boring then i would go that way, The engine has proved to be very strong in mine. Only thing i did wrong was to fit the standard ARP head studs, Ive had head lift a couple of times when its been fully loaded, L19's are a better bet for big power, got a set going in mine shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halllon Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 (edited) Although I know cheaping out shouldn't be an option with builds like these, we are on a budget and I don't want to go too overkill. I see Darin and co don't recommend mains upgrade before over 1100 hp. I wanted to see if we could get away with not opting for the billet mains, but I guess that's the best insurance you can get. What kind of rod and main bearings do you run, and was it a meticulous process? Do you think we need the L19 studs over tyhe stock ones, considering our mild cylinder pressure? Edited February 25, 2012 by halllon (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 850 whp is about a 1000bhp, not many in the uk have pushed the stock main caps that far, you might be ok. I run ACL bearings, id have thought you would be ok with the standard ARP head studs at 1.7bar, if you was going 2 bar id go L19's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halllon Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Ok, sounds good. I'll try and gauge what the yanks are doing a little bit more before I decide. Thanks for the great input, much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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