Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Well it would appear the fanbelt tensioner pulley on the car isn't happy, I had a slight squeal from the engine so I fitted a new fanbelt but this didn't cure the problem, now looks like the bearing in the pulley on the tensioner arm is shot. Is this a horrible job to change or not too bad, looks like i have to replace the whole thing or is repairing the bearing possible? The car is a daily for me so I need to sort this asap. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks Edited February 22, 2012 by Slicknick (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Is the pulley plastic or metal? If its plastic then the bearings cant be replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Plastic sadly so looks like I will have to change the whole thing, is an ok job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlmhtt Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Plastic sadly so looks like I will have to change the whole thing, is an ok job? Supra Engine-almost together by Mr_CH_lense, on Flickr It's only three bolts to remove the tensioner. You will need to remove the top two cam covers to access it. I can't remember if anything else hinders access as its been a while since my car has been together but I've added a picture for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks for the info and pic mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Paul Whiffin does an alloy pulley that has a replaceable bearing in it, that can be used to fix the plastic pulley'd tensioners that are noisy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 (edited) Edit - Beaten to it by Chris. Damn you CW!!! If the main body of the tensioner is still working. That is to say the spring arm, you may be able to buy a replacement pulley of Paul Whiffin cheaper than you would a new complete tensioner from Toyota. I think they are around £150. Paul's pulleys are £66: Press here for linky Edited February 22, 2012 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Ah fantastic! That's ideal, yeah the spring arm is working perfect its just the pulley that needs changing. I guess its a case of unscrewing the bolt on the pulley and swapping it over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes, make SURE the arm doesn't snap back to its relaxed position stop, it WILL break the casting of the hub it pivots on. I have several dead ones here. The bolt has a captive nut in the arm that sometimes makes a break for freedom, be aware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 Yes, make SURE the arm doesn't snap back to its relaxed position stop, it WILL break the casting of the hub it pivots on. I have several dead ones here. The bolt has a captive nut in the arm that sometimes makes a break for freedom, be aware. Thanks for the advice, i will put some thick foam on the side so it can't snap back while I'm changing it. Is the nut just clipped in place or welded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 You need to take the belt off, and once it's off the arm WILL be in the relaxed state, but still under some tension against the stop so no need for foam or anything. The spring is STRONG!! The nut is just in a recess in the casting, just make sure t doesn't fall out and get lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 You need to take the belt off, and once it's off the arm WILL be in the relaxed state, but still under some tension against the stop so no need for foam or anything. The spring is STRONG!! The nut is just in a recess in the casting, just make sure t doesn't fall out and get lost. Taking the belt off is fine, I did it the other day to change it but i know what you mean Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Well I got my Whifbitz pulley today and swapped it over with no problem at all. What a difference so smooth and quiet. Very happy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra N_A Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Think this might be the issue I am having it's screeching on idle is this what yours was doing?? How can I check if this is my problem? Was it a ok job for ur self?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Hello mate, yeah i had screeching and rattling all the time, at first it was just when it was very cold but it got worse. I put a new Fanbelt on and that stopped some of the screeching but there was still a slight wine/rattle which i diagnosed was the tensioner pulley. I am no mechanical expert but it was an easy job, the hardest bit was the lack of access because of the viscous fan. If i was you i would start with the cheapest option which would be swapping the fanbelt (2 min job) whilst your doing that you can spin the tensioner pulley to see what the bearing is like, mine was shot so it was very obvious, there was loads of play in it back and forth and it made a grinding noise. Removal is simple as Chris has said above. If your unsure how to remove the fanbelt you need a 14mm socket on a decent size ratchet spanner, i used this method as the bolt on the pulley is slightly recessed so getting a normal spanner on there without it slipping off worried me. Then you turn the bolt clockwise as if you were tightening it and the arm should swing down and release tension on the belt, its useful here to have a mate to pop the belt off while you hold the tensioner back. Careful not to damage the fan in the process! Its fairly obvious from there. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supra N_A Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Going to replace this as it does make a rattling sound and screeching will try belt and new pulley... Can you give me a step by step on what you done or am I been a pain lol!? Does anything need to be removed or belt need set up etc?? Or is it just basic bolt on? Also what do you think of bpu on the tiptonic as that is my next move do you have a fmic?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slicknick Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Going to replace this as it does make a rattling sound and screeching will try belt and new pulley... Can you give me a step by step on what you done or am I been a pain lol!? Does anything need to be removed or belt need set up etc?? Or is it just basic bolt on? Also what do you think of bpu on the tiptonic as that is my next move do you have a fmic?? Haha right firstly BPU is certainly worth it, can't imagine going back, tho i am only at 1bar with the restrictor ring so I imagine it will be even better with a boost controller. I have a Whifbitz SMIC, seems to do the job very well as i didn't want to loose the Active spoiler. Its quite funny how we have the same model and year supra with the same part failing! Here's a step by step, hope that helps you out. If you want my mobile number via pm let me know just in case you get stuck doing it So firstly you need to remove the fanbelt so i will repeat my previous guide; make sure you take note of the routing of the fanbelt for when you replace it, you need a 14mm socket on a decent size ratchet spanner, i used this method as the bolt on the pulley is slightly recessed so getting a normal spanner on there without it slipping off worried me. Then you turn the bolt clockwise as if you were tightening it and the arm should swing down and release tension on the belt, its useful here to have a mate to pop the belt off while you hold the tensioner back. Careful not to damage the fan in the process. Simply unhook the fanbelt from the pulleys and carefully thread it around the fan and out. Next you want to switch the ratchet spanner so it to un-tightens (anti clockwise) and start undoing the same bolt you used to release the belt on the tensioner. Unscrew the bolt until it is free and be careful the nut the bolt threads into doesn't fall out, mine didn't but Chris advised it might fall out. The bolt has a large washer on it so remove this with the bolt. The pulley should then slide off easily. If you are replacing the pulley with a Whifbitz one, place the new pulley on the arm and make sure you can see the Whifbitz logo so you know its the right way around. Put the washer on the bolt as it was with the standard pulley and screw the bolt back on. Tighten the bolt up until the arm starts moving when you try and tighten it. As far as I know is doesn't matter which orientation the belt is in just that the smooth side is facing up on the top pulleys when looking down on the belt from above, just as it was before. So finally re install your new fanbelt, thread it around the pulleys as it was originally, I have a routing diagram if you need it. I found it easiest to run the fanbelt around all the pulleys apart from the PAS pulley on the top right, this was the most accessible to finally hook the belt on. move the tensioner pulley the same way you did to remove the belt then have someone hook the belt over the pulley mentioned. Check everything is seated properly and gently let the tensioner take up the slack. And that's it, double check you have run everything correctly and start the car up Hope that helps mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barneybrendan Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 mine has just started squeeling now ,luckily its a steel one so will be replacing the bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lude Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Might be worth adding to try the tipex test on the crank pulley before buying anything else. Can be hard to pin point a noise sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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