pedrosixfour Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I've a brand new pair for my 4 pots sitting on the shelf for the last 12 months waiting patiently for me to wear out my old ones. They were in the for sale section at £100 for the pair which I thought was too good a deal to pass considering I've had no complaints as of yet with the second hand set that came with the calipers I bought from Michel Lane in 2009. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I've a brand new pair for my 4 pots sitting on the shelf for the last 12 months waiting patiently for me to wear out my old ones. They were in the for sale section at £100 for the pair which I thought was too good a deal to pass considering I've had no complaints as of yet with the second hand set that came with the calipers I bought from Michel Lane in 2009. Which ones do you have? Both sets RS10s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Going single? jeez better get some uk's fitted as slowing down from 70mph on the sliproad is much harder when you have more power. I must be easily confused by the mentality of some. TBH, you must, I know a couple of tuners on here who have refused/will refuse to do a single conversion on a car with j-Spec brakes. I cracked my 3G front discs at the 'ring. Stock discs with upgraded pads are all that's needed IMO. Funny you should say that, I put a fracture in the stock disks at Croft. Anyway I refuse to waste anymore of my time with someone who gets there education on cars from google. Apologies to the OP. I said I'd leave it but I needed to add to the fact that I have been brought up in Motorsport, I like to think I know a thing or 2, I worked as a pit mechanic for my dad for numerous years before I actually stepped into the driving seat myself and have more experience on different brake set-ups than you have had hot dinners, hell I have held MSA race licences since I was 11. Your opinion is based on bias and ignorance towards the 3Gs though Martin, reading every one of your replies on here you are putting forward arguments as to how OEM discs are almost as good as discs with grooves in them........ Finally, someone who get's it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Which ones do you have? Both sets RS10s? I believe so Scott, yes. Slotted, not drilled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I believe so Scott, yes. Slotted, not drilled. Yeah same as me. The only criticism I have of them is that they corrode too quickly when not being used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Yeah same as me. The only criticism I have of them is that they corrode too quickly when not being used. You should try leaving the car sitting for 12 months straight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 You should try leaving the car sitting for 12 months straight! I'm at 6 just now lol. Thankfully it's been 6 months tucked up in the garage so they aren't TOO bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 The car was parked up in the corner of a dry garage from Dec '10 to Nov '11. But in fairness it has sat out in the elements since November with moving an inch and the discs are still bright. Just a bit of light rusting but nothing critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 TBH, you must, I know a couple of tuners on here who have refused/will refuse to do a single conversion on a car with j-Spec brakes. That is the bit that confuses me and I'm not arguing for arguments sake, but surely slowing from 70mph or even 140mph is the same however fast you get there. If people are going to use their cars for track use then I would always upgrade from jspecs. but for road use, unless you drive from corner to corner like a lunatic all the time a well prepped set of jspecs have got to be better than a poorly maintained set of Uks. You can only put so much pressure down the lines so the braking forces have to be similar? Are the uk pads so much bigger? The TT is no slouch even in standard form and can reach some pretty good terminal speeds between braking points on normal roads. Has anyone ever done a real world test on the same track with newly refurbed Uks and jspecs. I would be really happy for someone to convince me that I am wrong I do enjoy learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 That is the bit that confuses me and I'm not arguing for arguments sake, but surely slowing from 70mph or even 140mph is the same however fast you get there. If people are going to use their cars for track use then I would always upgrade from jspecs. but for road use, unless you drive from corner to corner like a lunatic all the time a well prepped set of jspecs have got to be better than a poorly maintained set of Uks. You can only put so much pressure down the lines so the braking forces have to be similar? Are the uk pads so much bigger? The TT is no slouch even in standard form and can reach some pretty good terminal speeds between braking points on normal roads. Has anyone ever done a real world test on the same track with newly refurbed Uks and jspecs. I would be really happy for someone to convince me that I am wrong I do enjoy learning. I always had a similar opinion. Things change when you actually experience it though. You are correct in that it doesn't make any difference to the speed you are braking from, what does make a difference is how quickly you can hit that speed. If you upped your power by 200hp you would be considerably quicker going from corner to corner. 5 corners in a row, it used to take you 3 seconds to hit each one. It now takes you 2 seconds to hit each one and as you do you are travelling faster. You need to brake from a higher speed than you did before and the brakes have less time to cool between corners. Lets put it this way, if you don't need anymore stopping power..... you don't need any more engine power. As what you are basically saying is that you will be driving exactly the same as you currently do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_p Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 That is the bit that confuses me and I'm not arguing for arguments sake, but surely slowing from 70mph or even 140mph is the same however fast you get there. If people are going to use their cars for track use then I would always upgrade from jspecs. but for road use, unless you drive from corner to corner like a lunatic all the time a well prepped set of jspecs have got to be better than a poorly maintained set of Uks. You can only put so much pressure down the lines so the braking forces have to be similar? Are the uk pads so much bigger? The TT is no slouch even in standard form and can reach some pretty good terminal speeds between braking points on normal roads. Has anyone ever done a real world test on the same track with newly refurbed Uks and jspecs. I would be really happy for someone to convince me that I am wrong I do enjoy learning. I always had a similar opinion. Things change when you actually experience it though. You are correct in that it doesn't make any difference to the speed you are braking from, what does make a difference is how quickly you can hit that speed. If you upped your power by 200hp you would be considerably quicker going from corner to corner. 5 corners in a row, it used to take you 3 seconds to hit each one. It now takes you 2 seconds to hit each one and as you do you are travelling faster. You need to brake from a higher speed than you did before and the brakes have less time to cool between corners. Lets put it this way, if you don't need anymore stopping power..... you don't need any more engine power. As what you are basically saying is that you will be driving exactly the same as you currently do Perfectly good question and Scott pretty much summed it up. Another way to look at it is if you were say on a private road at 2am and you decided you were going to open it up fully for 15 seconds, an N/A might get to 130mph, a TT might get to 160mph and a single might get to 180mph and I doubt the j-specs would stop very well from 180mph, I doubt you would be able to stop before you get severe brake fade. But if you are intending to never go over 70 and not abuse it on twisties then j-Specs may be fine, they won't stop as quickly but they would be fine, however, if you had 700bhp, would you really pootle around at the same speeds as do in an N/A? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noz Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 I have small toyota brakes. I NEVER felt an issue with them while driving like I stole it while being NA (even with a lightweight flywheel cuz that add's an easy 140bhp instantly ). Now boosted, I have noticed fading a handful of times. I would say that 5 hard corners in a row is enough to start them feeling like the effective stopping action is reduced. Luckily I have larger optional Uk specification brakes sat waiting for a clean up to be fitted. I would not want to give JSpec's some track action, as 5 minutes fast road action concerns me and makes me loose confidence in my stopping distance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Thanks to the 3 of you, great answers I have always supported the use of properly maintained jspecs but I'm swinging 'slightly' the other way. I envisaged that they would stop you once from 180mph at least. They do suit my purpose fine and I've just taken delivery of new pistons and seals from cw for all four calipers and some new 5.1 so I'll stick with them for the time being. They always throw the brake tester at the local mot off the scale so are biting well and always get comments from the tester on how good they are. I just imagine that a lot of people that go for the big numbers don't actually drive it like they stole it everywhere. Thanks again R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narbar Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ive had standard and 3G discs and they were both good, but to be honest ill never track my car and never really use the brakes hard for more than a minute at a time so I dont really get to see the difference between them because ive never took them to there limits. So ill just stick to keeping the standard discs and keeping the good old 2 potters well maintained That and toyota are 5 minutes down the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ive had standard and 3G discs and they were both good, but to be honest ill never track my car and never really use the brakes hard for more than a minute at a time so I dont really get to see the difference between them because ive never took them to there limits. So ill just stick to keeping the standard discs and keeping the good old 2 potters well maintained That and toyota are 5 minutes down the road I would always recommend stock over aftermarket in that instance as slotted discs will eat your pads a lot faster for no gain at your usage level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 So did anyone find a reliable supplier for 3G disks lately? One of my rears has a crack, not sure how serious it is at the moment but I'd like to know my options just in case. The link ScottM supplied on the first page isn't currently doing much. Did 3G fold altogether? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 So did anyone find a reliable supplier for 3G disks lately? One of my rears has a crack, not sure how serious it is at the moment but I'd like to know my options just in case. The link ScottM supplied on the first page isn't currently doing much. Did 3G fold altogether? Company disappeared mate, I just supply standard Toyota discs these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Company disappeared mate, I just supply standard Toyota discs these days. Feck them anyway. I've a brand new set of 3G fronts ready to go whenever I need to replace what's already bolted to the car. I may do a little browsing to see what might replace the rears and still be a match for the fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I have blackdiemond grooved discs all round on mine and yellow stuff pads. Has enyone ells tried them.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Clark Motorsport have a sale on and you could have ARB discs for less than stock. http://clarkmotorsport.co.uk/website/webshop/productsSearch.asp?searchBrand=DBA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I just got some mtec discs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) Wow this thread was a very entertaining read. Would someone care to offer advise on how not to warp stock disks when doing high speed stops or using on the track. (I run CW race pads). I moved away from stock because they warp too easily. 3G disks on the other hand have lasted me years now (although I only do about 2000 HARD miles a year) I am now getting bad cracks in the disks so need to change as I am planning on a 200mph run (track obviously). So what are the options for a single that is driven hard? Pics of disks added Edited July 30, 2013 by Pig (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaky Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 My 3G disks still look like new with red stuff pads,but they are now warped after about 900 miles so i'll try Toyota discs next,. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I've managed to warp standard and 3G So trying the mtec next and if I warp these I may try the crio ones that are frozen to make harder I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 I've managed to warp standard and 3G So trying the mtec next and if I warp these I may try the crio ones that are frozen to make harder I think Got a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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