YAW rate sensor gone wrong...anyone have a VAGCOM ;O)

[SteamAhead]

Before I start.... I really don’t need the stupid comments/piss takers etc.. this is a genuine question that requires genuine helpful response’s. Thank you.

 

 

Hope some nice person can help

 

I own a VV Beetle 2.3 V5 and the car have been diagnosed with a YAW Rate Sensor fault.

I’ve been quoted over £600 from VW for a new sensor (that’s before fitment & programming)

 

Having found the part in my car and obtained the part no (1J0 907 657 B). I’ve bought one from a scrappy for £70. Yes I know its a risk but if it works this would be very much cheaper than £600+

 

After phoning around I’ve found someone that can fit/program the part but has said there is a 50/50 chance of it working/not working and that will take over 3hrs to do....

 

 

 

So the question is:

How difficult are these sensor’s to program (and how long do you think it would it take)?

 

Do you know of anyone that has a VAGCOM that could do the job (Essex area of CM9)? (+ cost)

 

If I do have to buy a brand new sensor... would you know of anyone/anywhere that sells them for under the £600 mark? Also fit / program.

 

 

I'm doing as much research as possible before going to the person I mentiond above.

Any help would be VERY much appreciated as this really has come at the wrong time to go wrong.

 

Cheers ,

James.

[Chris Wilson]

I have the latest Vagcom, but even so programming sensors can be a bit of a `mare. Long way to come though.... I posted on this programming the CAN data malarkey the other week, personally i would be incredibly reluctant to buy a road car that used this technology, even if it meant driving my typical old sheds for the rest of my days. Total rip off. be absolutely sure it's not a connector that's high resistance or otherwise iffy. VW / Audi stuff is junk in this regard, I see loads of issues with the electrickery, especially with convertibles that have been rained in.

[caseys]

But Chris, Syvecs runs CAN bus, also in fact so do many computer controlled robotic systems.

 

I agree to a degree though, my friend who has a business fitting towbars for over 30 years says the Q7 and the like are horrific and there's no easy way to reuse the standard looms

[Chris Wilson]

Yes, Syvecs, Motec, most modern aftermarket ECU's and dash boards use CanBus, but you get the programming software with them when you buy them. You only get a door and ignition key when you buy a car, and a sticker with the dealerrs name, address and phone number on, for when you need doing over

[Tricky-Ricky]

What i don't understand is why a yaw sensor would need programing? there are two types usually used on cars and most are the pietzoelectric type, and the others are micromechanical, do they come complete with ROM chip?

 

I have a yaw sensor in my Skyline, and its currently disabled by switching of the power feed, it certainly doesn't need reprogramming if i switch it back on.

[Chris Wilson]

Modern cars are different, even if you change the rear screen wiper motor on many current vehicles the new or good used one will not work without it being dealer reprogrammed, or you try your luck with an aftermarket programmer. In fairness VAGCOM is better than most. It's amazing so many people do not know of how the car makers have put one over on the consumers with this technology.

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?262209-Hypothetical-question-about-trading-laws-(used-cars)&highlight=volvo+wiper

 

Post #18

[Tricky-Ricky]

My Skyline is CAN bus and since owning it i have got to know the ways around and how the system works its not so much bother, and nothing needs any reprogramming in order to change or replace,

I have a reader and can reset etc , but like i said the yaw sensor switch i put in only stops the TCS operating, it throws a dash light but thats all,

same goes for the bank 2 lambda sensors, that i have replaced with wide-bands, the orignal sensors are only cat condition and cause no problems other than an error code.

Only certain things are actually tied into the CAN bus system, i think that things like headlights fan motors are monitored and can result in a code, but nothing will stop working because of it, at least not on my car.

 

IMO its done in order to make things less user serviceable, and some of the resulting bull that dealers spout about error lights etc, is in order to make sure they do the work, my sister in-law has a late model Astra, and some of the utter shite the dealers have given her is total bullocks, like we will have to replace the headlight bulb because its special, i replaced the std bulb and she had no more problems.

[SteamAhead]

Cheers for response's.

After doing some phoning around a friend of a friend has a "vag-com" lead and software that i can use this weekend.

I can but try to see if i can get this thing working... if not then I have no choice but pay up to VW

 

Very much considering going back to jap cars again as vw/audi motors have cost me nothing but hassle and money over the years,

where as my Supra from a few years ago was the most reliable car i've ever owned (and yes i do regret selling).

 

Tricky-Ricky.... If I had the money at hand i'd be taking that skyline off your hands right now, so amazed it's not sold yet.

[Chris Wilson]

Good luck, but be careful, if it's a none genuine VAGCOM (Chinese clone lead with hooky software), it probably won't work. If in doubt DO NOT try programming a new unit. VAG will then probably claim that it's now knackered, if the ID fails. If you have to buy new let a dealer do it unless it's a genuine VAGCOM lead and registered software. IMHO modern VAG stuff is unreilable, expensive and shoddy. the only good thing is the current 2 litre turbo engine, which is a nice unit, when the coil packs work Again, IMHO, Toyota are the most reliable modern cars, generally speaking, on the road these days. Have you had air bag light trouble yet?

[Tricky-Ricky]

Cheers for response's.

After doing some phoning around a friend of a friend has a "vag-com" lead and software that i can use this weekend.

I can but try to see if i can get this thing working... if not then I have no choice but pay up to VW

 

Very much considering going back to jap cars again as vw/audi motors have cost me nothing but hassle and money over the years,

where as my Supra from a few years ago was the most reliable car i've ever owned (and yes i do regret selling).

 

Tricky-Ricky.... If I had the money at hand i'd be taking that skyline off your hands right now, so amazed it's not sold yet.

 

By the sound of it i think I'll steer clear of VAG for my mundane diesel replacement, was thinking of BMW but i might lean towards Honda, or even Volvo now.

 

Thanks! yes i thought someone would be tempted with the Skyline, it a nice car to drive, just a bit juicy for me these days, someone will get a nice car with all the niggly bits already sorted, and with all the right mods, if it doesn't sell/PX and i have to renew the insurance in a months time, i will probably hang onto it for the summer and try and put 500 miles on it LOL!

[SteamAhead]

Good luck, but be careful, if it's a none genuine VAGCOM (Chinese clone lead with hooky software), it probably won't work. If in doubt DO NOT try programming a new unit. VAG will then probably claim that it's now knackered, if the ID fails. If you have to buy new let a dealer do it unless it's a genuine VAGCOM lead and registered software. IMHO modern VAG stuff is unreilable, expensive and shoddy. the only good thing is the current 2 litre turbo engine, which is a nice unit, when the coil packs work Again, IMHO, Toyota are the most reliable modern cars, generally speaking, on the road these days. Have you had air bag light trouble yet?

 

Cheers for the words of warning. The chaps software is all very legal but the lead I'm told maybe from eBay

(this is the part for which may give problems)

 

I'm going to give the software a look and take it from there (if it's out of my depth I'll know to put it down, lol)

I've done so much bloody reading on the net tonight my head hurts so off to bed me thinks.

[SteamAhead]

By the sound of it i think I'll steer clear of VAG for my mundane diesel replacement, was thinking of BMW but i might lean towards Honda, or even Volvo now.

 

Thanks! yes i thought someone would be tempted with the Skyline, it a nice car to drive, just a bit juicy for me these days, someone will get a nice car with all the niggly bits already sorted, and with all the right mods, if it doesn't sell/PX and i have to renew the insurance in a months time, i will probably hang onto it for the summer and try and put 500 miles on it LOL!

 

 

Never thought I'd see the day of saying; stay away from German cars, but alas here I am. Myself as well as a few friends have had nothing but problems when it comes to German motors.

 

My First vw bug with 15,000miles: Engine managment problems. New Lambda sensor.

My Audi A2 with 30,000miles: Main computer broke (Audi price £500+, I got it fixed for £120) Panoramic Sunroof broke (Audi price £2000, I disconnected and never fixed it)

My current bug....look at thread lol

 

Friend with Audi A3 2008 with 40,000miles: Most electric problems you can think of he has had gone wrong. Last I heard was the gear box was causing problems..

(he only uses the car less than 1000miles a year as he is mostly out the country)

 

Another friend bought brand new polo back in early 2000 and I remember that his motor was going back and forth for the first few months with problems.

(in yet he owned a cracking VW MK2 Golf and that gave no problems for years... untill his dad smashed it,oops

 

What really gets me is most of these cars are under the 50,000 miles mark and are having problems...

am I getting that paranoid in thinking that cars are rigged to go wrong so we chop in and buy from new.. own for 3 years then same again..

 

 

But on a more plus side........... Friend of mine own's 2 Hondas the s2000 and Civic typeR, his mum and dad have owned Hondas for years and I think his sister as well.....

Yep you guessed it, they have had not one single electrical or mechanical problem (apart from normal wear and tear of course)

Another friend that owns a Toyota Auris...... no problems for last few years.

 

So... guess I better buy Jap again or go old school VW

[Guest ugp]

I can't vouch for the never VAG stuff, as I've not got one, but my trusty old Passat is still going strong with 350,000 miles on it.

 

I wouldn't use a chinese cloned lead though, I've had my fair share of issues with them in the past.

[sideexitsupra]

Surely the main points behind the Canbus technology were weight reduction and cost reduction?

 

Multiple devices controlled over a single cable, just like a computer network?

 

Got to admit, that stuff above makes pretty shocking reading. Hope the Wifes Audi TT doesnt suffer in the same way!

[Chris Wilson]

Never thought I'd see the day of saying; stay away from German cars, but alas here I am. Myself as well as a few friends have had nothing but problems when it comes to German motors.

 

My First vw bug with 15,000miles: Engine managment problems. New Lambda sensor.

My Audi A2 with 30,000miles: Main computer broke (Audi price £500+, I got it fixed for £120) Panoramic Sunroof broke (Audi price £2000, I disconnected and never fixed it)

My current bug....look at thread lol

 

Friend with Audi A3 2008 with 40,000miles: Most electric problems you can think of he has had gone wrong. Last I heard was the gear box was causing problems..

(he only uses the car less than 1000miles a year as he is mostly out the country)

 

Another friend bought brand new polo back in early 2000 and I remember that his motor was going back and forth for the first few months with problems.

(in yet he owned a cracking VW MK2 Golf and that gave no problems for years... untill his dad smashed it,oops

 

What really gets me is most of these cars are under the 50,000 miles mark and are having problems...

am I getting that paranoid in thinking that cars are rigged to go wrong so we chop in and buy from new.. own for 3 years then same again..

 

 

But on a more plus side........... Friend of mine own's 2 Hondas the s2000 and Civic typeR, his mum and dad have owned Hondas for years and I think his sister as well.....

Yep you guessed it, they have had not one single electrical or mechanical problem (apart from normal wear and tear of course)

Another friend that owns a Toyota Auris...... no problems for last few years.

 

So... guess I better buy Jap again or go old school VW

 

I agree entirely, Mercedes, BMW and VW / Audi are nothing like the cars they once were. I am a lifelong Volvo fan, but the later cars also have succumbed to falling standards, IMO. I am not a badge or year snob, and luckily neither is the wife, so we trundle about in low tech old cars, but save a lot of money in the process Every time i go into our local pub I can guarantee SOMEONE will bend my ear with a "warning light" problem, or a rant over how much they have paid to get X fixed on their very new car. The excetions seem to be Honda and Toyota owners, generally speaking. I try and avoid eye contact with Land Rover and Range Rover owners, drinking time is too short.

[SteamAhead]

Little update:

 

So....... before taking the old unit off and putting the 2nd hand unit on, I thought I'd plug the laptop in and do a diagnostics check (just to make sure that lead worked)

All worked fine and showed me that fault code. I managed to find the menu to clear the fault code and do a rescan. This time all clear. Unplugged everything and took the car for a spin.....

 

This was saturday morning and since then I've just done over 100 miles, also doing some hard breaking and this morning I managed to get the car to spin out a little for the ESP to kick in.

So far I can say; all seems fine. Now don't get me wrong, I'm not sitting back with a smug face and thinking thats it . As with anything that goes wrong and gets fixed, you can never guarantee for how long it will keep working...

 

But less just say, I'm a happy chap at the moment

[Tricky-Ricky]

Glad to hear its all worked out fella, didn't think it should need reprogramming.

[Chris Wilson]

I read the post as saying he retained the old unit, just cleared the fault code?

[SteamAhead]

That's correct I did not need to replace the YAW sensor in the end, just cleared the fault code and now all working fine (well, for the moment).

 

All to do now is replace my wing mirror..... a lovely drunk thought it would be a good idea to break it the night after I was told about my car costing me £££ (yep had VERY bad luck that weekend )