RB-GTE Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 (edited) I'm pretty stock right now except for ARC intake. I am focusing on the performance aspect right now. I will be running the stock clutch till it goes out then upgrade it afterwards. What I plan to get: - FMIC with 3" piping. Is 3" piping ideal or should I step it up to 3.5" ? - 3" custom straightpipe exhaust (no catback) - 1st + 2nd decat 3" (with 2" restrictor ring between the both). - Electronic Boost controller - Wideband air/fuel ratio - Upgraded fuel pump (Walbro?) - Colder grade spark plugs - Greddy BCC for ECU I already have 5 other gauges for boost, oil pressure, etc. Is there anything I should add to my list? I'd plan on running upwards of 1.2bar and in TTC mode. One of my friends in America with this similar setup with his JDM car told me he makes about 400rwhp. In BHP I am not sure how much that is, but I'd hope to get around that limit. Is my list looking fine or would anyone recommend anything else or any other changes? I just purchased this Supra 1995 TT 6-speed. I previously owned a TT6 as well with BPU mods (stock cat) but the last owner did the mods. cheers Edited February 11, 2012 by RB-GTE (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D8MOA Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 sounds like you have everything covered to be honest... i made 428bhp with my last bpu+ supra only thing i would recommend is replacing your coil pack clips if you haven't done them all ready Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Have you got an FCD on the list? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westy Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Stock Tubbys won't last long if you push them above 1.2bar alot mate!? You missed a FCD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dim Sum Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Go get a Syvecs Ecu from Ryan and get it remap, that I'm sure you can make the most of stock turbos and you said you want a faster bpu supra than your friend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB-GTE Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Stock Tubbys won't last long if you push them above 1.2bar alot mate!? You missed a FCD. Fuel Cut Defender! right I forgot. So I'll need the FCD + BCC? 1.2bar is the max. I won't be going above this limit. If I'm just driving around town I'd keep them at 1.1bar or bellow. Then turn it up to 1.2bar for my spirtied driving. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JohnSupra1 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 You missed one, it need NGK Spark plug too.. Also Recommend Greddy Pro Spec 2 Boost Controller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dim Sum Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 You missed one, it need NGK Spark plug too.. He mentioned it already What I plan to get: - FMIC with 3" piping. Is 3" piping ideal or should I step it up to 3.5" ? - 3" custom straightpipe exhaust (no catback) - 1st + 2nd decat 3" (with 2" restrictor ring between the both). - Electronic Boost controller - Wideband air/fuel ratio - Upgraded fuel pump (Walbro?) - Colder grade spark plugs - Greddy BCC for ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mario Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm pretty stock right now except for ARC intake. I am focusing on the performance aspect right now. I will be running the stock clutch till it goes out then upgrade it afterwards. What I plan to get: - FMIC with 3" piping. Is 3" piping ideal or should I step it up to 3.5" ? - 3" custom straightpipe exhaust (no catback) - 1st + 2nd decat 3" (with 2" restrictor ring between the both). - Electronic Boost controller - Wideband air/fuel ratio - Upgraded fuel pump (Walbro?) - Colder grade spark plugs - Greddy BCC for ECU I already have 5 other gauges for boost, oil pressure, etc. Is there anything I should add to my list? I'd plan on running upwards of 1.2bar and in TTC mode. One of my friends in America with this similar setup with his JDM car told me he makes about 400rwhp. In BHP I am not sure how much that is, but I'd hope to get around that limit. Is my list looking fine or would anyone recommend anything else or any other changes? I just purchased this Supra 1995 TT 6-speed. I previously owned a TT6 as well with BPU mods (stock cat) but the last owner did the mods. cheers You covered almost everything for the BPU upgrade, Walbro would be fine, and will suit your needs. I would consider the 9-12Volt mode too, see below copy/paste http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/12v_mod/12v_mod.htm#photos 12 VOLT FUEL PUMP MODClick Here for illustrated instructions The Concept The stock fuel pump on the twin turbo Supra has two modes of operation. There is a high speed mode for high engine demand, and a low speed mode for cruising. The fuel pump ECU(seperate from the main ECU) receives information from the main ECU which determines which mode the fuel pump should be operating in. Various sensors come into play to determine when high and low speed operation should be used. Under idle conditions and cruising, the fuel pump ECU sends a reduced voltage output to the fuel pump(9 volts), and the fuel pump operates in "low speed". When engine sensors determine a high engine load, the fuel pump ECU will send a full 12 volt signal to the fuel pump, kicking it into "high speed" so that it will supply more fuel. The Problem: When modifications are made to the car to increase boost pressure and engine breathing ability, some owners have experienced detonation around 4000 rpm, as the 2nd turbo builds boost and comes on line. Usually, this detonation disappears above 5000 rpm. The problem is, the fuel pump is still in "low speed" mode around 4000 rpm's, but the performance modifications have increased fuel demand to the point of "outrunning" the low speed operation. By 5000 rpm, the fuel pump ECU has caught up and switches to high speed operation and all detonation disappears. Here you will read why several mkiv owners choose the greddy ''bcc'' which you mentioned over the HKS ffcd or HKS FCD http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/bcc/why_bcc/Why_the_GReddy_BCC.htm You may have a read through this one too, as the stock bov is getting it hard when running over one bar of boost. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/twin_stock_bov/index.html (what about your speed limiter?)+tires+braking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackie Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Is detonation when it "Bogs" at it goes on to the second turbo? I think i have this unless i switch od off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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