TubbyTwo Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Completely random I know but Im out of ideas, need to sell the car but now cant. Was purchased to be an eco runabout until the supra arrives but has turned into quite the opposite. does anyone have any knowledge of Ford TDCi engines?? Owned the car for about 2 years now and its been a love hate relationship, there is somthing not quite right but no garage as of yet has managed to sort it. Which is a shame as when its behaving its a great car and its only done 50k miles The car has been checked loads of times but never shows any errors. Its recently had a full service with plugs, fluids, filters including fuel filter. In no particular order: - The car has a problem with cutting out, usually when you 1st start it, will run for maybe 15 - 20 seconds then the accellerator becomes unresponsive and the car just slows down and cuts out. Once restarted its then fine for the rest of the journey. - Fuel consumption seems to be rather low considering the car, on a decent motorway run sat at a constant 70mph it struggles to make even 45 mpg, now im not expecting massive MPG but compared to older less efficient TDI cars I have owned this is low. - Battery seems to discharge rather quickly, its now on its 3rd brand new battery and 3 months ago had a new alternator due to the previous one burning out. If you leave the car for a week then it struggles to start. I noticed when locking the car that the green display on the dash remains on constantly, is this normal? The nail in the coffin: The car has been parked up in our garage for 2 weeks while we were on holiday aside from the problems mentioned above it was running fine, engine pulled hard no issues. Upon jump starting the car (due to a flat battery) straight away the turbo now makes a loud high pitched whine and slight lack of performance. Car was in the garage yesterday to be diagnosed and came back with a report of no split hoses or boost leaks and suspected turbo failure. Now I have had turbo cars in the past both petrol performance ones and TDi ones and have had turbos fail, but never after being parked up and not driven for 2 weeks. Just seems rather strange to me?? Yes its been very cold, but surely that cant be a problem?? I need to sell the car to release the cash to fund a supra, but I cant sell it, certainly not for a sensible return. Just what I need at the moment! I have posted on various Ford forums but either get no replies or nothing much of any help Any suggestions or offers of free fuel and matches would be welcomed. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Swift Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 What model you got Si? & do u have any lights on the dash before it cuts out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
listy Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 i can do the fuel.....and a special offer of windproof matches, just to make sure it takes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 2006 1.8 TDCi Sport mate, nope no warning lights. If its on idle it just cuts out, if your driving it the DBW pedal becomes unresponsive and the car slows until it cuts out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kill1308 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Have you tried the Ford forums? I know it's not a very helpful answer, but I'm sure you'll have better luck with an answer there. Good luck in solving it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 Yep on there at the moment but any suggestions are helpful junst incase someone suggests something I have overlooked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D8MOA Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I'd give you £500 for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 burnt or unburnt : Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Swift Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 My mate had 2 take his '07 mondy Tdci bk to ford for a PCM update coz it would cut out. Dunno if thats any help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Are you sure it's had the plugs changed? Alarm bells are ringing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Right, I've read the rest of it now.... Here are a few things to check... Does it have an EGR valve? If the EGR valves get gunked open you will struggle to start the car, also as most oil burners are DBW hitting the throttle won't really help the situation as the ECU won't let you open it until IT says so. The EGR was sticking on my 2.2TDCI and it has very similar problems to those that you suggest. The High pitched whine.... does it sound like a squeeky dump valve? I had this on my car a few weeks ago, it sounds like it's something concerning the turbo but it's not.... it was actually my exhaust had split in 2 right at the backbox (where the weight is on it). When accelerating and changing gear it lets off a funny high pitched BOV type noise. I now have a SS system in place and the noise is gone. Leaky injectors can also cause the issues that you mention along with them not being calibrated properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbourner Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Cutting out after starting, then running fine once restarted sounds like fuel pump seals or something else fuel pump related - does it take a few goes to start after it stalls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Cutting out after starting, then running fine once restarted sounds like fuel pump seals or something else fuel pump related - does it take a few goes to start after it stalls? That's a good shout actually. Is there not normally a non return valve in the pump? If it was gubbed the car would start with the fuel in the filter etc but it would quickly run dry for a bit while the pump caught up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sideexitsupra Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Could these all be problems associated with the car being Mis-fueled at some point in the past? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al02uk Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 I've just put two of the company Focus Tdi's into the garage (2008 reg), one of them has gone in because the sales rep said it kept on cutting out (has about 60,000 on the clock). they changed the fuel filter and had no luck. They then called me about an hour later and informed me that they have no record of the dpf regeneration additive going in the car on the third service, infact the last two services had been missed (our reps are responsible for their own servicing). They put the additive in and serviced the car. Luckily this solved the issue and it has now stopped cutting out. Now the next Focus (2009 with about 52,000).... This one started cutting out and hasn't missed a service, but the dpf is unusally blocked to the point it is totally knackered. I was initially quoted £1400 inc fitting and they reduced the quote to £800 after a bit of shouting. Ford actually recommend that the dpf is changed at 75,000 miles!! Both cars are now parked up and will be sold as seen, as there is no point wasting any more money on them. Not sure on your other issues, but the cutting out might have something to do with the dpf. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandan Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 When it next cuts out, dip the clutch and then whilst it is free wheeling see if turning the ignition off for a second or two and then cranking immediately starts it again. I've known two TDCi's (although 1.6) that had this cutting out issue. The first turned out to be a fuel filter change due to debris trapped in there and the second was a faulty fuel pressure sensor (intermittent) which was an easy swap. Have you had anyone check for fault codes? The DPF may have also failed to regenerate but that could by an effect of the other stored codes now that there is something wrong. Both cars I mentioned had DPF related fault codes (no passive regeneration) but the regen worked once the other problems were fixed and the cars taken on a 20min journey over 3000rpm. I have read about perished/split/cracked/flaking fuel hose issues inside the tank but have no first hand experience of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 If I had it I would monitor fuel pressure sensor at start up and the AFM signal, assuming t has an AFM? I would also check the exhaust back pressure in case the particualte filter's bunged up. If it were mine I would throw the particulate filter away... De catting for diesels! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Yes is been error checked lots and never shows anything up. yes its got an AFM and new glow plugs (i bought and suppled them to be fitted) you know when its about to stall as there is almost a slight misfire feeling so you know its time to clutch down (stall) then restart. It always starts 1st time without any problems after its stalled, and doesnt run lumpy either. Re the turbo whine when driving normally there is no whine, its only when the turbo spools and its progressive with the turbo speed, almost as if there is a boost leak under pressure. Its a very clean sounding whistle, there is no unusual vibrations at all. Car never throws up any dash lights etc. I find it hard to accept that its turbo failure as literally the car has been standing for 2 weeks and was fine before. Surely symptoms would gradually develop? there is no smoke and it hardly uses much oil. It still drives as it should jsut with a loud whistle. Bloody thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 OK, check for a leak in the hose from the turbo compressor INLET to the AFM. You may need to take it off or manipulate thoroughly (ooh err), to see if it is porous or split. Putting a scope on the AFM voltage signal and revving the car to the red line would be interesting, diagnostics wise, as would scoping the fuel pressure signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks Chris I will have a look tonight, should be fairly easy as its an injection formed plastic pipe from the AFM to turbo thats been replaced 3 times under warranty in the past. Its making me think that if there is a leak its not obvious under idle or garage conditions, possible turbo gasket? Will see about getting the AFM tested. Seem to be what ever garage I go to I always get the same answer " we cant find anything wrong, your going to have to wait until the part fails as there are no error codes". which I know isnt the mechanics fault but its just a pain. Not like the old days of the MR2 turbo, part brakes, car stops. replace part car runs fine again, simples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 They should be using a scope for diagnostics, error code reading is not always 100% reliable as you have found out I just love my scopes, God knows how I managed before i took the time to understand how to use them effectively for automotive and other diagnostics. i am still learning, but they have already found stuff I'd have struggled with, or not found at all previously. I have even got the makers of one of my scopes to write me some custom software, some of these smaller specialist companies are very obliging, they actually like doing that sort of thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TubbyTwo Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 I assume that any decent garage should have scope equipment then, ok will ask, thanks Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Actually surprisingly few do have it, even less know what to do with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Does sound like the high pressure pump but you will need some pressure test kits to varify that. the AFM on a diesel is only used for engine load calculations so you can disconnect the plug and it will use a base map in the ecu so will still run,fault in the egr will cause heavy black smoke and lack of power but again will still run. i'm not sure if that engine has a electric pump in the tank for priming if so that can also cause poor starting and cutting out but when engine is running you will not be able to rev the engine to max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morpheus Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 What was that video someone posted recently where an automotive electrical training course was filmed showing a bad ECU ground example? The scope showed noise on all the tested components which turned out to be as simple as a loose ECU ground nut to the chassis. The weather, added to being sat for a while could easily have caused corrosion of a ground or other connection. A short or bad connection might also explain the battery drain issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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