loks Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 After having a few issues with the Aristo I have decided to get the Supra back on the road at last. Long story short, the Supra was taken off the axles stands after 1.5 years () of storage and a new battery fitted. Oil, water, etc were checked over - fingers crossed and turned the key. Fired up on first attempt, I was happy after all this time! BUT... the MIL remained lit up and the 3x lights on the left bank remained on and the cooking oil can light on the right hand side remained on also. Note that the engine warning light did not remain on at this stage Anyone else had this after starting the car after such a long lay off? I have had something similar to this in the past that turned out to be the alternator (which was replaced). However at that time the car almost died immediately as the battery was already dead. This time however, the car was still running perfectly and continued to until it had warmed up completely. At this time I turned it off to be safe. I fired it up several times after this and the warning lights still remained on. I tried the diagnostic check and the engine warning light flashed constantly to show no error codes. Is this because it is a really cold start (new battery connected) and no opportunity to register any error codes? Where to start looking for the possible problem as I guess that it is not safe to drive for any distance with the warning lights aglow Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 6, 2012 Share Posted February 6, 2012 Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a while to reset everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) I can but try. Been thinking about this diagnostic thing... does the car need to travel a certain distance, get to certain revs before it can diagnose anything? I only had the car idling up to working temperature, light reving, a little backward and forwards in the garden to warm up the auto box. Edited February 7, 2012 by loks (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robzki Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Not from what I am aware, for most anyway, a faulty speed sensor needs you to be doing a certain speed for a certain amount of time before throwing an error but others will be checked on start up. R. Apologies for my previous post sounding like a patronising 'Have you tried switching it off and back on again' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi Dave, how're things? Which oil light is illuminating, the orange or red one? Orange is low oil level, red is low oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi Nic, I think it is the orange one... it is the one with the fire under an oil can and the far right one. Things... same old, same old... still in China daily and a son that is growing up faster than I like. Hope things are good in your world too? Need that pint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hi Nic, I think it is the orange one... it is the one with the fire under an oil can and the far right one. Things... same old, same old... still in China daily and a son that is growing up faster than I like. Hope things are good in your world too? Need that pint. Dave, could you post a pic of which warning light you mean? Alternatively does anyone have a pic of the warning lights they could post up? Hoping to get back there April/May time, that pint is well overdue, will let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 The earliest I can get you a picture of mine is at the weekend but here is one off the net... http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg135/scaled.php?server=135&filename=interior0039dh.jpg&res=medium Funny thing is I found my old thread about the alternator packing up and the relevant warning lights leading to it killing the battery are exactly the same as I have now 9 years ago now.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?8201-hmmm-warning-lights I guess that the alternator has given up working properly after the long lay off. Anyone have any tricks/suggestions to kick starting these (i.e. an odd drop of oil or grease into the unit at a specific location) or is it just a case of replacing the whole unit? Is it an easy job to replace an alternator yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 The orange one is low oil level I believe. Did you say you had changed the oil? Maybe the oil after be sat for so long as clogged some of the oil ways, I would use some engine flush and new oil to see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 The earliest I can get you a picture of mine is at the weekend but here is one off the net... http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg135/scaled.php?server=135&filename=interior0039dh.jpg&res=medium Funny thing is I found my old thread about the alternator packing up and the relevant warning lights leading to it killing the battery are exactly the same as I have now 9 years ago now.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?8201-hmmm-warning-lights I guess that the alternator has given up working properly after the long lay off. Anyone have any tricks/suggestions to kick starting these (i.e. an odd drop of oil or grease into the unit at a specific location) or is it just a case of replacing the whole unit? Is it an easy job to replace an alternator yourself? No joke I hit mine with a hammer and it started working but there are loads of companies that will refurb it for a lot less than a new one. It's oxidation on the contacts that kills them will they are sat not spinning, if you are ok with taking it to bits and having a look it might just need a clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 The earliest I can get you a picture of mine is at the weekend but here is one off the net... http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg135/scaled.php?server=135&filename=interior0039dh.jpg&res=medium Funny thing is I found my old thread about the alternator packing up and the relevant warning lights leading to it killing the battery are exactly the same as I have now 9 years ago now.... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?8201-hmmm-warning-lights I guess that the alternator has given up working properly after the long lay off. Anyone have any tricks/suggestions to kick starting these (i.e. an odd drop of oil or grease into the unit at a specific location) or is it just a case of replacing the whole unit? Is it an easy job to replace an alternator yourself? sorry i carnt help but in that first link you have a small circular switch, the one with the tiny red circle on (could be a led) whats it for i have the exact same switch in the same place and i had to disconnect it because the wires had melted and i had to get it all sorted. but at the moment its doing nothing, is it just a switch thats been fitted for something or is it on some supras, my car is jap spec its just abit weird how its in the exact same place and the same switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) If it's the orange light that's the oil level warning, if the level is okay then it may be an issue with the sensor. If you're happy that the oil level is okay then it'll be ok to drive, just keep an eye on the level to make sure you're not losing any oil. I'd try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, the engine may run a bit lumpy to start with and not idle properly initially, it'll take a few miles for the ECU to relearn things. Edited February 8, 2012 by Nic (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Just noticed in you first post you say the warning lights on the left hand side were also on, which ones? An alternator problem can cause problems with the dash lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 The orange one is low oil level I believe. Did you say you had changed the oil? Maybe the oil after be sat for so long as clogged some of the oil ways, I would use some engine flush and new oil to see if it helps. The oil level was OK both cold and when it reached full temperature. Will give the car a good old service once it it is running properly. No joke I hit mine with a hammer and it started working but there are loads of companies that will refurb it for a lot less than a new one. It's oxidation on the contacts that kills them will they are sat not spinning, if you are ok with taking it to bits and having a look it might just need a clean. I remember a quote from a supervisor from my old appreticeship days (30+ year ago!) - "To sort it out give it a clout!". Will try this one myself as I believe I'm over qualified. As for taking it to bits, I'd rather not. sorry i carnt help but in that first link you have a small circular switch, the one with the tiny red circle on (could be a led) whats it for i have the exact same switch in the same place and i had to disconnect it because the wires had melted and i had to get it all sorted. but at the moment its doing nothing, is it just a switch thats been fitted for something or is it on some supras, my car is jap spec its just abit weird how its in the exact same place and the same switch No idea mate - I half inched the picture from a google image search. Ejector seat for particulary loud and offensive wives? Just noticed in you first post you say the warning lights on the left hand side were also on, which ones? An alternator problem can cause problems with the dash lights. Of the five icons there, not the seatbelt or open door warning. The space invader, toaster and rear flames alert? http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg408/scaled.php?server=408&filename=img0439l.jpg&res=medium I have just read somewhere else on another thread here, that if the battery warning light were to come on for an electrical/charging issue, the other two would also light up, as they are wired together for some odd reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashbuster Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 could have been, my seats were swapped before i bought the car so he must have removed them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Of the five icons there, not the seatbelt or open door warning. The space invader, toaster and rear flames alert? fantastic descriptions, although not wholly accurate That's the alternator charge light, the cat temperature warning light, and the rear bulb failure warning light. I think they all go to the same ground so it might be a corroded ground point in the engine bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan294 Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 fantastic descriptions, although not wholly accurate That's the alternator charge light, the cat temperature warning light, and the rear bulb failure warning light. I think they all go to the same ground so it might be a corroded ground point in the engine bay? I've just laughed out loud at my desk reading the warning light description! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 As previously all those warning lights did point to the alternator being shagged. Replaced with a second hand one and all is well in the world again. Great result at the weekend also, after the 2 year lay off I was expecting a few things to be an issue BUT it flew through the MOT and the only thing they picked up was the windscreen wipers. It feels real good driving the Supra again, such a good drivers car. However with an up there is always a down, it looks like the Aristo is destined for the knackers yard - gearbox is now totally shagged, front suspension issues and the long term electrical gremlins. It is not worth what needs spending on it. Sad but one of the 17 year old girls have to go Besides I need a younger model (read more practical) for the missus to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Nice one Dave Shame about the Aristo ps. if you ever need a friendly MOT tester give me a shout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 That many lights is normally a dissconnected alternator, I suppose it could also be a knackered alt but normally all those will come on if you forget to put the main 12v lead on the alt before running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJT88 Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Maybe you can check the voltage it's producing while the engine is running. Should be around 14 V I think, for it to charge the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loks Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Don't have a volt meter at home but plan to pick one up at the weekend to double check the voltage. @Dude. Had a gander around the alternator for any loose wires but could see/find any. New issue - since I have got it back on the road I have noticed that it takes an awfully long time for the temperature gauge to start moving and get to the normal position. A lot longer than it used to anyway. I am guessing that this would be a thermostat issue and would the best option be just to fit a new one? Is it a simple job that I could handle with my trusty lump hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.